The Alexander McQueen Bumster: The Low-Rise Cut That Started It All

The bumster is a trouser cut to sit so low on the hip that it shows the very top of the cleft at the back. Lee Alexander McQueen introduced it in his first collection, Taxi Driver, for Autumn Winter 1993, and it became famous two years later in the Highland Rape show. It is still part of the Alexander McQueen collection, in trousers and a skirt.

Where it began

Taxi Driver, named after the 1976 Martin Scorsese film, was shown in March 1993 during London Fashion Week, on a rail in a small room at the Ritz. It included black satin trousers and skirts with very low waists that dipped into a V at the back: the first bumsters. McQueen later explained the cut as a technical exercise rather than a provocation, calling it, in 1996, an experiment in how to elongate the torso. The tailoring skill to keep a trouser that low in place came from his years on Savile Row.

Why it mattered

The bumster moved the waist, and with it the proportions of the body, and it set the low-rise trouser that dominated fashion around the turn of the century. It also showed what made McQueen different: an idea that looked like shock was built on precise tailoring. Read how McQueen is made.

The bumsters at Coveti now

• Straight Leg Bumster Trousers
• Iridescent Bumster Trousers
• Chevron Stripe Bumster Trousers
• Light Tweed Bumster Skirt

Wear a bumster with a short, fitted top, such as the Corset Top, so the low line shows, and keep the shoe sharp. The McQueen trousers guide covers the full range, and the skirts guide the bumster skirt.

Frequently asked questions

What is a bumster?

A trouser cut to sit very low on the hip, low enough to show the top of the cleft at the back. Lee Alexander McQueen introduced it in 1993.

When did Alexander McQueen create the bumster?

In his first collection, Taxi Driver, for Autumn Winter 1993, shown in March 1993 at the Ritz during London Fashion Week.

Why did McQueen make bumster trousers?

He described the cut as a technical experiment in how to elongate the torso, made possible by the tailoring he learned on Savile Row.

Does Alexander McQueen still make bumsters?

Yes. Coveti carries bumster trousers in straight leg, iridescent and chevron stripe versions, and a light tweed bumster skirt.

How do you wear bumster trousers?

With a short, fitted top so the low waist shows, and a sharp shoe. Take your usual size; the cut is designed to sit low.

Shop the bumsters on the Alexander McQueen page.