Huishan Zhang for the Mother of the Bride: 20 Outfits That Are Not Matronly
Huishan Zhang for the Mother of the Bride: 20 Outfits That Are Not Matronly
The mother of the bride has the hardest brief at a wedding. It has to be formal but not competitive, covered but not fusty, comfortable for a very long day, and photographed from every angle for the rest of your life. Most of the market answers this with pastel crepe and a matching jacket, which is exactly the look everyone is trying to avoid.
Huishan Zhang is a better answer than most, for one structural reason: the house cuts sleeves, higher necklines and substantial jackets as part of its main collection rather than as a modest sub-range. You are not shopping from the cautious end of a brand. You are shopping from the same collection as everyone else.
Floor length, for a formal evening wedding
Crepe is the fabric to look at first. It is matte, it moves, and it does not crease across a car journey and it survives a long ceremony. Jacquard and cloque are the alternative if you want the dress to carry some pattern.
- Daphne Gown in Pale Pink Crepe, $5,700
- Reign Gown in Black Crepe, $5,320
- Clover Gown in Grey Crepe, $5,140
- Chloe Gown in Navy Cloque, $4,580
- Patsy Gown in Grey Jacquard, $5,700
- Cosette Gown in Stone Jersey Crepe, $2,710
Midi, which is right for most weddings
If the ceremony is in a church and the reception is in a marquee, midi is almost always the correct length. Cloque and jacquard both give a midi enough weight to read as formal.
- Kyle Midi Dress in Navy Cloque, $5,320
- Aimee Midi Dress in Light Blue Jacquard, $3,830
- Skye Midi Dress in Grey Crepe, $4,760
- Lumi Midi Dress in Black Tailoring, $3,270
- Aimee Midi Dress in Pale Pink Crepe, $3,460
- Madeline Midi Dress in White Faille, Without Beading, $3,830
Tailoring, if you would rather not wear a dress
A jacket worn with a skirt, and the same jacket with wide trousers, is entirely correct at anything below black tie, and it is the most comfortable way through a fourteen-hour day. Buy the pieces separately so you can wear them again as work clothes, which is where the real value sits.
- Joanne Blazer in Navy Tailoring, $4,200
- Joanne Blazer in Grey Tailoring, $4,200
- Mara Jacket in Navy Tailoring, $3,080
- Vicky Midi Skirt in Navy Tailoring, $1,960
- Aubrette Skirt in Navy Tailoring, $1,960
- Lucian Trousers in Grey Tailoring, $1,780
The cover-up, bought as a garment rather than as an apology
This is where most mother-of-the-bride outfits go wrong. A sheer bolero over a strapless dress looks like a compromise. A jacquard jacket over a plain dress looks like a decision, and lace does the same. These are cut as main-line outerwear and they will outlive the wedding.
- Bridget Jacket in Ivory Multi Jacquard, $3,460
- Kieran Jacket in Grey Jacquard, $3,460
- Reina Coat in Ivory Multi Jacquard, $4,200
- Estelle Jacket in Black Lace, $3,080
The practical checklist
| Question | Answer before you buy |
|---|---|
| What colour are the bridesmaids? | One phone call. Do not match them and do not clash. |
| What is the mother of the groom wearing? | Traditionally she is told first and you coordinate. In practice, one text avoids an awkward photograph. |
| How long are you standing? | Receiving lines are brutal. Weight of fabric matters more than you think. |
| Is the ceremony outdoors? | Grass and stiletto heels do not combine. Plan the shoe before the dress. |
| Will you be photographed seated? | Sit down in the fitting room. A bodice that is perfect standing can be wrong seated. |
| Are you speaking? | Raise both arms in the fitting room. Some structured bodices do not allow it. |
On timing
Buy after the bride has chosen her dress and after the bridesmaid colour is settled, and allow six to eight weeks minimum between the order and the date. A number of these pieces are produced to order, and alterations sit on top of that.
Frequently asked questions
What should the mother of the bride wear?
Something you can stand, sit, hug and be photographed in for ten hours, in a colour that is neither white nor the same as the bridesmaids. Length is usually midi, sometimes floor. The most common regret is buying something stiffer and more formal than the day turns out to be.
What colour should the mother of the bride avoid?
White, ivory and champagne, because they read as bridal. Also avoid the bridesmaid colour, which is worth one phone call to establish. Navy, grey, stone, pale pink and deep jewel tones are all safe and none of them are dull.
Should the mother of the bride wear long?
Match the dress code. A black tie evening wedding asks for floor length. Most daytime and church weddings are midi. If the ceremony and the reception are in different registers, a midi with a strong jacket covers both.
How do I cover my arms without looking matronly?
Buy the cover as a real garment rather than as a shrug. A jacquard jacket over a plain dress reads as an outfit that was designed, and lace does the same; a sheer bolero over a strapless dress reads as an apology. The jackets in this collection are cut as main-line pieces and priced accordingly.
Is a trouser suit acceptable for the mother of the bride?
Yes, and it has stopped being unusual. A tailored jacket with wide trousers in navy, grey is entirely correct at anything short of black tie, and it is far more comfortable across a long day.
When should I buy?
Six months before the wedding if you can, and not less than two. Several pieces are made to order, and you will almost certainly want alterations. Buy after the bride has chosen her dress and after the bridesmaid colour is settled.
Keep reading
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