Stone Inlay Jewellery: Turquoise, Lapis and Opal in Gold

Inlay jewellery is jewellery in which a polished stone is set flush into a gold frame, so the stone and the metal form one smooth surface. The clearest place to see it done well is the Inlay line from Jennifer Meyer, and the easiest way into it is through our pendant and charm necklaces, starting with the Turquoise Inlay Heart Necklace.

If you are searching for a turquoise inlay necklace, here is the short version. Turquoise is the most popular inlay stone, a mini heart is the easiest size to wear daily, and a larger pendant on 18 inches makes a stronger statement. Add diamonds around the edge if you want light, and leave them off if you want the colour to stand alone.

What is inlay jewellery?

In ordinary stone setting, a gem sits up out of a mount, held by prongs, a bezel rim, a channel, and so on. Inlay does it the other way round. The stone is cut and polished to a precise shape and then fitted into the gold so that the top of the stone is level with the metal around it. The result looks like a drop of colour poured into the gold, with no ridge to catch on clothing and no visible claws.

That flat surface is the whole appeal. An inlay heart reads as a clean shape rather than a jewelled one, and the colour is saturated and even. It is also why inlay suits opaque and softly translucent stones, such as turquoise, lapis, opal, onyx and mother of pearl, which look at their best when polished smooth instead of faceted to sparkle.

Inlay is a house signature for Jennifer Meyer. Coveti stocks 113 pieces in the line, made up of 49 earrings, 30 necklaces, 24 rings and 10 bracelets. Every piece is designed by Jennifer Meyer and handcrafted of fine materials by master artisans in Los Angeles. The Inlay line sits within a larger body of work covered in our Jennifer Meyer collections guide.

Which stones are used in inlay jewellery?

Jennifer Meyer’s inlay uses five main stones, and each one has a different character. Here is how to tell them apart.

Turquoise is the best known. It is a blue-green, and in gold it looks fresh and slightly sunny. It is also the stone that has the most pieces in the line, with 29 inlay pieces named for it at Coveti. Our wider guide to turquoise jewellery explains why it pairs so well with yellow gold.

Lapis is a deep, rich blue, close to the shade of ink. It looks serious and substantial, and it makes the gold around it look warmer. There are 26 inlay pieces named for it.

Opal shifts with the light. The line includes blue boulder opal, red boulder opal and pink opal, each with its own mood. There are 25 inlay pieces named for opal, and they are among the most individual, because no two stones are quite alike.

Onyx is black and glossy. It is the strongest contrast to yellow gold, and it works as a neutral in the same way a black dress does. Eighteen inlay pieces are named for it.

Mother of pearl is soft, pale and slightly luminous. It is the gentlest of the five, and the one that looks most natural against skin. There are 15 inlay pieces named for it.

The quick guide: turquoise for brightness, lapis for depth, opal for individuality, onyx for contrast, and mother of pearl for softness.

Turquoise inlay necklaces: the main shapes

Most shoppers arrive looking for a turquoise inlay necklace, so it is worth looking at the shapes closely. The same stones come in several silhouettes.

Hearts are the core of the range. The Turquoise Inlay Heart Necklace hangs on an 18 inch chain with a pendant measuring 0.91 inch, at around $6,940. The Mini Turquoise Inlay Heart Necklace is much smaller, on 16 inches, at around $3,450. If you want the heart with diamonds set around the stone, the Turquoise Inlay Heart Necklace with Diamonds is around $9,290.

Bars are straight and architectural. The Blue Boulder Opal Inlay Bar Necklace with Diamonds has a pendant of about 1.18 inches and sits at around $9,880. The Mother of Pearl Inlay Bar Necklace with Diamonds is a paler take on the same shape, at around $7,970.

Butterflies are light and playful. The Lapis Inlay Butterfly Necklace uses 0.75 carats of lapis in a pendant of 10.95mm by 7.5mm, at around $2,820, which makes it one of the more accessible ways into the line.

Circles are rounder and more graphic. The Small Turquoise Inlay Circle Necklace with Diamond and Heart Detail carries 2.02 carats of turquoise and 0.40 carats of diamond at around $10,170.

Evil eyes use inlay for the eye itself. The Mini Turquoise Inlay Evil Eye Necklace is around $4,000, and if you want the same idea on the wrist, see our guide to evil eye bracelets.

Inlay shapes compared

Plain inlay versus inlay with diamonds

Diamonds on an inlay piece add a frame of light to the colour. The difference in price is clear: the plain mini heart is around $3,450, against around $5,320 for the version with diamonds, as on the Mini Turquoise Inlay Heart Necklace with Diamonds.

Plain inlay is the purer look. The stone is the only thing you see, and the piece feels calm. Inlay with diamonds is dressier and catches light across a room. Jennifer Meyer states that its diamonds are natural and ethically sourced.

A good test: if you would wear it with a white shirt and jeans, go plain. If you would wear it with a black dress, go with diamonds.

Inlay beyond necklaces

The same stones appear across the range, which makes it simple to build a set.

For ears, the Opal Inlay Circle Studs are around $1,100 and measure 0.2 inch across. For a ring, the Extra Small Turquoise Inlay Heart Ring is around $1,350. The brand makes rings in US 6.5, so check our ring size chart before ordering. For the wrist, the Lapis Inlay Bar Bracelet is around $1,500, and the Mother of Pearl Inlay Heart Cuff is around $4,000 and adjusts to fit.

If you like a chain with weight, the inlay heart also appears on the Edith line. The Small Edith Link Necklace with Turquoise Inlay Heart hangs from a 15 inch chain at around $6,940. Edith is named for Jen’s grandmother and uses open links in several scales.

Choosing one stone and repeating it in three places, such as a necklace, studs and a ring, is the quickest way to make inlay look planned. Our Jennifer Meyer jewellery guide shows how the other lines fit around it.

How to care for inlay and soft stones

Turquoise, opal and mother of pearl are softer than diamond. That does not make them delicate in daily life, but it does mean a little care pays off. This is general good practice and applies to any piece of soft-stone jewellery.

• Keep it away from water. Take it off to swim, shower and wash up.
• Put perfume, hair spray and lotion on before you put the jewellery on, not after.
• Avoid knocks. Remove it for the gym, gardening and anything that could strike the stone.
• Store it separately, in a soft pouch, so harder stones do not scratch it.
• Wipe it gently with a soft dry cloth after wearing.

Lapis and onyx are generally harder-wearing, but the same habits are sensible. Gold itself is easy to look after, and the stones are what deserve the attention.

How to wear inlay jewellery

Inlay looks best when it is the only colour in the outfit. A turquoise heart over a white tee, a lapis bar against a navy knit, an onyx tag over a black dress: each one reads as a deliberate accent. Gold tones in clothing, such as camel and cream, make turquoise and opal glow.

For layering, put the inlay on a 16 inch chain closest to the neck, then add a longer plain gold chain beneath it. The Onyx Inlay Tag Necklace is a different proposition. It hangs on a long chain, so it can be worn on its own as the anchor of an outfit, at around $10,030.

If you want a necklace that says something, our guide to charm necklaces shows how to combine a stone pendant with smaller charms.

About the maker

Jennifer Meyer founded her fine jewellery line in Los Angeles in 2005. She was runner-up for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund in 2012, and was nominated for the CFDA Swarovski Award for Accessories Design in 2013. Her stated aim is jewellery that feels personal, enduring and wearable, the kind women never want to take off. At Coveti, necklaces in the range run from around $1,280 to $110,350, with a median of around $6,240. Inlay hearts in the mini size are some of the most accessible pieces in that range. Browse everything on the Jennifer Meyer page.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is inlay jewellery?

Inlay jewellery has a polished stone set flush in a gold frame, so the stone and the metal sit level. There are no prongs and no raised edge. Jennifer Meyer’s Inlay line uses turquoise, lapis, opal, onyx and mother of pearl in hearts, bars, circles and butterflies.

Which stone is most popular for inlay jewellery?

Turquoise is the most popular inlay stone, and it has the most pieces in the Jennifer Meyer line at Coveti. Lapis and opal follow closely. Turquoise suits yellow gold and everyday outfits, while onyx and mother of pearl are good alternatives if you want black contrast and softness.

How much does a turquoise inlay necklace cost?

A turquoise inlay necklace costs from around $3,450 for the Mini Turquoise Inlay Heart Necklace. The full-size Turquoise Inlay Heart Necklace is around $6,940, and the version with diamonds is around $9,290. Prices are Coveti prices, for pieces in 18K yellow gold.

Can you wear inlay jewellery every day?

Yes, with sensible habits. Gold is durable, and the stones are softer than diamond, so avoid water, perfume and knocks. Take the piece off for swimming, exercise and cleaning, store it separately and wipe it with a soft cloth after wearing.

Are inlay stones real?

Yes. The stones in Jennifer Meyer inlay are genuine turquoise, lapis, opal, onyx and mother of pearl set in 18 carat gold. Pieces that include diamonds use natural stones, and every piece sold at Coveti is 100% authentic and made in Los Angeles.

What is the difference between inlay and a bezel setting?

Inlay places the stone level with the gold, so the surface is flat and smooth. A bezel setting wraps a metal rim around a stone that rises above the surface. Inlay looks flatter and more graphic, while bezel looks more jewelled and lets light in from the sides.