Vintage Alexander McQueen: How to Buy Archive Pieces, and What to Buy New

Vintage Alexander McQueen means pieces from Lee McQueen’s own collections, 1993 to 2010, and to a lesser degree the Sarah Burton years that followed. The most wanted are runway pieces and anything carrying the founding codes: the bumster, the skull, tartan and the sharp shoulder. Buy only with clear photographs of labels and construction, from a seller who authenticates and accepts returns; our McQueen authentication guide explains what to check.

Which eras collectors want

• The early London years, 1993 to 1996: rare, often handmade, and closest to the founder.
• The landmark shows: pieces linked to Highland Rape, No. 13, Voss and Plato’s Atlantis; see the most famous McQueen shows.
• The skull scarf, from 2003: the most traded McQueen accessory; read its history.
• The Sarah Burton years, 2010 to 2023: romantic lace and tailoring; see the Burton era.

How to check a vintage piece

• Labels: ask for the main label and the care label, and check the size label uses the Italian scale.
• Construction: even stitching, clean finishing inside and correct lining; McQueen tailoring is built like a Savile Row jacket.
• Condition: look closely at underarms, hems and lining, and at the corsetry of boned pieces.
• Provenance: a runway attribution needs evidence, such as a show photograph that matches the piece.

Buying the codes new

The house still makes its founding shapes, new and verified. The bumster is in the collection as trousers and a skirt, the corset in the Corset Midi Dress, the skull in the Skull Knit Scarf, and the Knuckle on the Jewelled bags.

Frequently asked questions

What is the most collectible Alexander McQueen?

Pieces from Lee McQueen’s own collections, 1993 to 2010, especially runway pieces linked to shows such as Highland Rape, No. 13, Voss and Plato’s Atlantis.

How do I know vintage Alexander McQueen is real?

Ask for clear photographs of the main, care and size labels and of the construction inside, check them against known examples, and buy from a seller who authenticates and accepts returns.

Is vintage Alexander McQueen a good investment?

Rare runway pieces from the founder’s era are sought after, but value depends on condition and provenance. Buy what you will wear, and keep the paperwork.

Can I still buy the bumster and skull scarf new?

Yes. The house still makes bumster trousers and skirts and a skull scarf, and Coveti carries them new and verified.

Shop the current collection on the Alexander McQueen page.