Brocade Dress Guide 2026: What It Is and How to Wear It

A brocade dress is cut from a woven fabric with a raised pattern, often worked in metallic thread, which gives it structure and a built-in sheen. Markarian, the New York label founded in 2017 by Alexandra O’Neill, made silver and gold brocade the backbone of its Fall 2026 collection, and Coveti carries every piece alongside our evening gowns.

What is brocade fabric?

Brocade is a woven fabric in which the pattern is created on the loom, not printed on afterwards. Extra threads are carried through the weave to build up the motif, so the design sits slightly raised on the surface. Those extra threads are often metallic, which is why brocade has such a strong association with evening dressing. Florals are the classic motif.

Because the pattern is part of the cloth, brocade is heavier and firmer than most dress fabrics. It holds a shape on its own. That makes it ideal for corset bodices, column gowns and full skirts, the exact shapes Markarian is known for. Our guides to corset midi dresses and the full Markarian Fall 2026 collection show how the label uses it.

Brocade, jacquard and damask: the difference

Markarian’s Fall 2026 brocade pieces

Markarian’s Fall 2026 brocade comes in two colourways, silver and gold, and the composition is the same on every piece: 36% viscose, 33% cotton, 12% metallised polyester, 11% polyester and 8% polyamide, fully lined in 100% silk. The viscose and cotton give it softness, the metallised polyester gives it shine, and the silk lining stops any scratch against the skin.

Silver brocade

• Ginevra Silver Midi Dress: the Markarian corset midi with a flounced ruffle at the hem, a rounded neckline and a low scooped back.
• Clover Silver Gown: the house’s folded off-the-shoulder neckline on a slim column body, with a back slit for walking.
• Maisie Silver Corset Top: a signature Markarian corset top with a round neckline, a scooped back and an exposed zip.
• Mira Silver Shorts: high-waisted mini shorts with a structured, polished shape, designed to pair with Maisie.

Gold brocade

• Jasminium Gold Top: gold floral brocade shaped into a fitted peplum top with soft pleats at the waist and a V-neckline.
• Pia Gold Midi Skirt: a full A-line midi on a contrast black waistband, close at the waist and generous at the hem.

Jasminium and Pia are styled together by Markarian as a set, as are Maisie and Mira. The Markarian matching sets guide shows each pairing worn together and apart. For the Clover in a different fabric, see our Markarian gowns edit.

How does a brocade dress wear?

Brocade does not cling. It sits slightly away from the body, which is flattering on a corset bodice and a full skirt, and it smooths over the figure rather than following every line. That also means fit matters: a brocade dress will not stretch to accommodate a size that is too small, so take your usual size. Markarian sizes from US 0 to 14, shown on Coveti as UK 4 to 18.

The fabric is warmer than chiffon and satin, so it suits autumn and winter events well. It also travels better than you might expect. The weave is firm enough that light creases drop out after a night on a hanger. In my experience, brocade is the fabric that looks most expensive in photographs, because the metallic thread picks up flash without glaring.

How to style a brocade dress

Let the fabric do the work. Markarian styles the Ginevra with a slim metallic sandal, a small clutch and hair pulled back to show the scooped back. That restraint is the right instinct for all brocade.

• Jewellery: one piece. A statement earring with a strapless neckline, nothing at all with the Clover’s folded neckline.
• Shoes: a fine sandal keeps the look light. Avoid heavy platforms that compete with a structured skirt.
• Bag: a hard clutch in a metallic finish matches the formality.
• Layers: a long black coat over silver brocade in winter, a cropped jacket over the shoulders for a summer evening.
• Day: a gold brocade skirt with a black cashmere crew and metallic flats, the way Markarian suggests for the Pia.

Where to wear brocade

Brocade suits any event with an evening start time. A silver brocade corset midi is right for a cocktail party, a winter wedding and an office holiday party. A brocade column gown handles black tie. A brocade shorts set is a confident choice for New Year’s Eve and a bridal after party. For more seasonal ideas, see our holiday party dresses guide, the silver dresses edit and the gold evening gowns edit. If you like a slim long line, the column gowns guide pairs well with Clover.

Brocade has a long history in eveningwear, and other houses use it too. New York peers such as Oscar de la Renta and Carolina Herrera are good places to look for more structured evening pieces.

How to care for a brocade dress

Every Markarian brocade piece is dry clean only. Store it on a padded hanger, away from direct heat, and keep embellished areas covered. Avoid folding brocade for long periods, since sharp creases can mark the metallic threads. When you travel, roll the dress in tissue and hang it as soon as you arrive. Never iron brocade directly; if it needs pressing, leave it to your dry cleaner.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is brocade fabric?

Brocade is a woven fabric with a raised pattern created on the loom by extra threads, often metallic. It is firmer than most dress fabrics and holds its shape, which suits corset bodices, column gowns and full skirts.

Is brocade good for winter?

Yes. Brocade is heavier and warmer than chiffon and satin, so it is a strong choice for autumn and winter events such as holiday parties and winter weddings.

What is the difference between brocade and jacquard?

Jacquard describes any pattern woven on a jacquard loom. Brocade is one type of jacquard, defined by extra threads that build a raised motif, often in metallic yarn.

How do you care for a brocade dress?

Markarian brocade pieces are dry clean only. Store them on a padded hanger away from direct heat, avoid long periods folded, and never iron the metallic surface directly.

Is a brocade dress formal?

Brocade reads as dressy, so it suits cocktail and black tie events. A brocade midi skirt can be dressed down for day with a fine knit and flat shoes.