Designer One-Piece Swimsuits: How to Choose One, and the Styles Worth Buying

The short answer: a designer one-piece swimsuit is worth it when the fabric is dense enough to hold its shape and the cut is simple enough to last years. Look for a recycled polyamide and elastane blend of around 78 and 22 percent, a fully lined body and a clean scoop. Our pick is the Johanna Ortiz Raiz Marina One Piece in ecru with chocolate binding. Shop all designer swimsuits and the Johanna Ortiz edit.

The one-piece is the most searched swimsuit in the world for a reason: it does more than a bikini. It swims, it sits under a skirt as a bodysuit, and it photographs well. The difference between a good one and a cheap one is mostly invisible: the density of the fabric, the lining, the cut of the leg and the strength of the seams.

How to choose a one-piece swimsuit

Cuts, and who they suit

• Scoop neck, scoop back. The classic. Works for most bodies and under almost every cover up.
• Square neck with straps. Supportive, architectural and the easiest to wear as a bodysuit with a skirt.
• Cut outs. A side cut out narrows the waist visually. Choose bound edges so they hold their line.
• Bandeau. Best for even tan lines, less supportive for a fuller bust.

Fit: how designer swimwear sizes

Johanna Ortiz cuts its swimsuits in letter sizes, XS to XL, and describes them as true to size. Our Johanna Ortiz size guide has the full conversion.

Our picks

1. Raiz Marina One Piece

Ecru lycra in 78 percent recycled polyamide and 22 percent elastane, bound in chocolate, with a clean streamlined line. A dependable everyday swimsuit.

2. Whispering Tides One Piece in Wine and Green

A wine and green leaf print with thin straps and a close cut. Rich colour that suits a deep tan.

3. Baboon Call Dress

Not a swimsuit, but cut from crinkled black lycra, a swimwear fabric, as a close midi for evening.

How to care for a designer swimsuit

• Rinse it in cool fresh water as soon as you can after the sea and the pool. Salt and chlorine break down elastane.
• Never wring it. Press it in a towel and dry it flat in the shade.
• Rotate two swimsuits on a trip so each has a day to recover.
• Sit on a towel, not on rough stone, which pills the fabric.

Why recycled polyamide

Recycled polyamide is made from waste nylon, from fishing nets to carpet fibre, regenerated into yarn. It performs the same as virgin nylon: the same stretch, the same colour, the same resistance to chlorine. The Raiz Marina one-piece uses 78 percent recycled polyamide with 22 percent elastane.

How to style a one-piece off the beach

Tie a sarong at the hip and add flat sandals. Wear it as a bodysuit under a printed maxi skirt, like the Territorio Atemporal Skirt. Throw a tunic dress over the top for lunch. For more swim, read the Johanna Ortiz swimwear and resort edit.

Frequently asked questions

Are designer swimsuits worth the money?

When the fabric is dense and fully lined, yes. A good one-piece keeps its shape and colour for several seasons.

What fabric is best for a one-piece swimsuit?

Polyamide with around 20 percent elastane. Recycled polyamide performs the same and is the better choice.

How should a one-piece swimsuit fit?

Snug, with no gaping at the bust and no digging at the leg. It should not ride up when you lift your arms.

Can you wear a one-piece swimsuit as a bodysuit?

Yes. Square neck and scoop styles look best with a maxi skirt, a sarong, wide leg trousers.

Do Johanna Ortiz swimsuits run true to size?

Yes. The house describes its one-pieces as true to size, cut XS to XL.