Huishan Zhang vs Erdem: Two London Houses, Two Completely Different Answers

Huishan Zhang and Erdem are the two London houses most often put side by side, and the comparison is genuinely close. Both were founded by outsiders who trained in Britain, both make occasion dressing at a serious level, both show on the London schedule, and both are carried by the same retailers. The difference is not quality. It is what each house thinks decoration is for.

The numbers, from live stock

Print against texture

This is the whole comparison in three words. Erdem’s decoration sits on the surface of the cloth: prints developed in-house, embroidery applied to tulle and organza, colour used pictorially. Huishan Zhang’s decoration is inside the cloth: the pattern is woven on the loom, so it changes as the light moves and disappears entirely in a flat photograph.

Neither approach is better. They photograph differently, they age differently, and they suit different people. A printed Erdem dress is recognisable from across a room and stays recognisable for as long as the print is in your memory. A Huishan Zhang jacquard is quieter at distance and more impressive up close.

Silhouette

Erdem cuts softer: gathered waists, fuller skirts, a nostalgic line that references mid-century and earlier. Huishan Zhang cuts a notably cleaner shoulder and a more architectural body, which is the couture pattern-cutting training showing through. If you have broad shoulders, and if you want the outfit to look structural rather than sweet, that difference matters more than the fabric one.

Where each one wins

Three Huishan Zhang pieces that make the case

• Patsy Gown in Grey Jacquard, $5,700 — woven decoration doing what a print cannot.
• Kyle Midi Dress in Navy Cloque, $5,320 — texture instead of pattern, and formal without any print at all.
• Reign Gown in Black Crepe, $5,320 — the architectural line with no decoration whatsoever.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between Huishan Zhang and Erdem?

Print against texture. Erdem builds its collections on printed and embroidered florals with a historical, romantic register. Huishan Zhang builds on woven decoration, jacquard, fil coupe and duchesse satin, cut to a cleaner architectural line. Both are London houses making occasion dressing at a similar level; they are simply answering different questions.

Which is more expensive, Huishan Zhang, and how does Erdem compare?

Erdem, on gowns. Measured on the stock Coveti holds today, the median Erdem gown is $5,730 against about $4,400 for Huishan Zhang. Across the whole collection the order reverses, because Erdem carries more lower-priced separates: the median Erdem piece is $2,810 and the median Huishan Zhang piece is a little over $2,100.

Which is better for a wedding guest?

Erdem if you want a print and the wedding is in daylight. Huishan Zhang if the wedding is formal, if you need sleeves, if you would rather not wear a floral. Erdem florals are recognisable, which is a virtue if you like the house and a limit if you will be photographed with the same people repeatedly.

Who is Erdem?

Erdem Moralioglu, a British designer of Turkish and English parentage, born in Montreal and based in London since the early 2000s. He founded his house in 2005 and shows on the London schedule. The work is known for floral prints, historical reference and a romantic silhouette.

Which house is better made?

Both are genuinely well made and the construction philosophies differ. Huishan Zhang comes out of couture atelier training and builds internal structure into its bodices. Erdem invests more in surface: bespoke prints, embroidery and fabric development. Neither is cutting corners, and which one reads as more luxurious depends entirely on whether you notice a bodice first, and a print second.

Keep reading

• Brands like Huishan Zhang, all eight
• Huishan Zhang vs Jenny Packham
• The Huishan Zhang fabric guide
• A straight review of Huishan Zhang
• Shop the full Huishan Zhang collection at Coveti