Real Maria Lucia Hohan vs a Dupe: How to Tell the Difference

A real Maria Lucia Hohan gown is made of silk: most gowns are 100% silk metallic tulle and mousseline, pleated by hand and built on a boned, padded bodice with an adjustable back. A dupe usually copies the silhouette in polyester, with printed pleats and no boning. The difference shows in movement, weight and how the bodice holds.

What is a real Maria Lucia Hohan made of?

The house lists the fabric on every piece. The Naima, Huda and Nadira are 100% silk metallic tulle. The Heidi and Salima are 100% silk metallic mousseline. A few styles mix silk with viscose, and the house says so. A label reading 100% polyester on a “pleated silk” gown is the first sign of a copy.

Which construction details does a dupe miss?

• Hand pleating: the pleats on a real gown follow the body and change direction across the bodice. Printed and machine pleats run in straight lines.
• Structure: real gowns have padded cups and boning, plus a concealed zip on the skirt.
• Adjustment: an adjustable back, a lace-up back and self-tie backs are standard on the house gowns.
• Sizing: the house cuts in French sizes from FR 34. A copy in S, M and L is not the original.
• Hardware: gold-tone charms, such as the one at the bust of the Huda and the Verity, are part of the design.

Why does the price differ so much?

Silk tulle costs far more than polyester, and hand pleating is slow, skilled work. That is why house gowns cost thousands while copies cost a fraction of that. Sale and resale listings are another route, but check the fabric label and the French size before you buy.

Where can I buy an authentic Maria Lucia Hohan?

From the house itself, at marialuciahohan.com, and from authorised retailers. Maria Lucia Hohan at Coveti carries the current gowns, corsets and accessories, each one authenticated before dispatch. If you like the look but want a different house, read brands like Maria Lucia Hohan.

How do you check the fit of a real gown?

The fit is its own test. A real Maria Lucia Hohan corset gown holds its shape on the hanger, because the bodice is boned. The adjustable back sits flat and the zip on the skirt is hidden. On a copy, the bodice usually collapses and the zip shows.

Is a Maria Lucia Hohan gown worth it?

If you will wear it more than once, yes. Silk tulle and mousseline last when you steam them and store them well, and a corset bodice with an adjustable back can follow small changes in size. A polyester copy rarely survives a second event looking new.

Is renting a good alternative?

For one event, renting can make sense. Check the fabric label, the French size and the condition of the pleats before you commit, and ask whether the bodice has been altered.

What should I check on a resale listing?

• A fabric label listing silk.
• A French size label, from FR 34.
• Hand pleats that change direction across the bodice.
• Boning you can feel through the lining.
• A concealed zip and an adjustable back.

More reading: who Maria Lucia Hohan is and the Maria Lucia Hohan size guide.

Frequently asked questions

How can you tell a real Maria Lucia Hohan gown?

Check the fabric label for silk tulle and mousseline, look for hand-pleated folds that follow the body, a boned and padded bodice and French sizing from FR 34.

What are Maria Lucia Hohan gowns made of?

Most gowns are 100% silk metallic tulle and mousseline. A few styles blend silk with viscose, and the house lists it on the label.

Where can I buy authentic Maria Lucia Hohan?

From the house at marialuciahohan.com and from authorised retailers such as Coveti, which authenticates every piece before dispatch.

By Gemma Deeks, Fashion Editor at Coveti.