Fashion, Style Guides

David Koma Peplum and Flounce Dresses: How the House Builds Volume

Fashion, Style Guides

David Koma Peplum and Flounce Dresses: How the House Builds Volume

The short answer: a peplum is a short flared panel at the waist, and a flounce is the same idea moved to the hem. David Koma uses both to exaggerate an hourglass. The strongest examples right now are the Faux Fur Peplum Trim Gown, with a black faux fur peplum, and the new Mini Dress With Contrast Velvet Flounce Hem. Shop the full David Koma edit at Coveti and every shape in designer dresses.

The peplum dress is one of the most searched dress shapes in the world again, and the reason is simple: it gives a waist to anyone. Koma pushes it further than most. His peplums and flounces are rigid, made in materials that hold their own shape (faux fur, velvet, leather), so the volume stays sculpted rather than soft.

Peplum vs flounce: what is the difference?

Peplum Flounce
Where it sits At the waist and hip At the hem
What it does Defines the waist Adds movement to the leg
Best on Gowns, midi dresses Minis, skirts
David Koma material Faux fur, satin, lace Velvet, leather, denim

How to wear a peplum

A peplum works on every body shape because it creates contrast: a close bodice, a flare, then a close skirt. On a gown, it lifts the line at the waist and makes the skirt look longer. Keep the neckline clean, since the peplum is already the focal point. The faux fur peplum gown pairs a halter neck with a tulle insert at the midriff, which is all the detail it needs.

How to wear a flounce

A flounce hem is about the leg. On the velvet flounce mini, a short wool under-skirt sits beneath the velvet so it stands away from the thigh. Wear it with sheer black tights and a pointed pump to lengthen the line. On the leather flounce dresses, the hem is asymmetric and longer at one side, which balances a short front.

Our picks

1. Mini Dress With Contrast Velvet Flounce Hem

Black tailoring wool with a zip at the front and an exaggerated velvet flounce. New this month.

2. Faux Fur Peplum Trim Gown

Floor-length black satin with a faux fur peplum trim, a halter neck and a tulle insert at the midriff.

3. Metallic Curve Emb Strap Flounce Hem Leather Dress

Black leather with metallic curves on the straps, a V neck and an exaggerated asymmetric flounce hem.

4. Flounce Hem Faux Leather Dress

Black faux leather with a heart-shaped neckline and a flounce hem. The easiest way into the shape.

5. Flounce Hem Mini Leather Skirt

Blue leather with seam details and a flounce that flares at the sides.

6. Flounce Denim Mini Skirt

100% cotton denim with a flounce hemline and a side zip. The daytime version.

Sizing a structured shape

Because the peplum and flounce do not stretch, size by your waist. David Koma cuts to UK sizing, and the bodices are close. If you are between two sizes on a peplum gown, take the larger one and have the waist taken in. Our David Koma size guide has the full body chart. For more on silhouette, read David Koma corset dresses and tops and sculptural dresses.

David Koma: key facts

  • Designer: David Koma, Georgian born and London based.
  • Training: Central Saint Martins MA, graduated 2009, the year the label launched.
  • Career: creative director of Mugler, then of Blumarine.
  • Made in: mostly the United Kingdom.
  • Sizing: UK sizes on dresses, letter sizes on knits. See the size guide.
  • This guide: Koma builds peplums and flounces in faux fur, velvet, leather and denim, so the volume holds its own shape.

The Coveti verdict

Our pick is the faux fur peplum trim gown. Most peplums soften a dress. This one sharpens it. The faux fur sits exactly at the narrowest point of the waist, so the gown looks cinched with no belt and no corset. For something shorter and easier to wear, the velvet flounce mini gives the same hourglass from the hem up. Gemma Deeks, Fashion Editor, Coveti.

Frequently asked questions

Are peplum dresses in style?

Yes. The peplum has returned through 2026, now in rigid materials like faux fur and velvet rather than the soft ruffles of the 2010s.

Who should wear a peplum dress?

Anyone who wants a defined waist. The flare creates curves on a straight figure and balances the hip on a fuller one.

What shoes go with a flounce mini dress?

A pointed pump, with sheer black tights. The point lengthens the leg under the volume of the hem.

Is the David Koma faux fur real fur?

No. The peplum trim and every fur detail in the current collection is faux fur.

How do I size a David Koma peplum gown?

By your waist. The bodice is fitted and does not stretch, so take the larger size if you are between two.