Gold Plated Brass Jewellery: Does It Tarnish, Is It Safe?

Gold plated brass is the backbone of designer demi-fine jewellery, and it is surrounded by more bad information than almost any other material. It does not behave like solid gold, and it is not costume junk either. Here is what it actually is, what it does over time, and how to make it last.

Key facts

What gold plated brass actually is

A brass base with a layer of genuine gold bonded to the outside, usually electroplated. The gold is real gold. There is just not very much of it, and it sits on the surface rather than running through the piece.

Brass is a good base for this. It is copper and zinc, it is dense enough to feel substantial, it casts beautifully, which is why it suits designers working from moulds, and it takes plating well. The warm tone of the brass underneath also flatters the gold on top.

Does gold plated brass tarnish?

The gold layer itself does not tarnish, because gold is unreactive. That is the whole point of gold.

What happens instead is wear. The plate thins at the points that rub, and once brass is exposed, that brass can oxidise and darken. So the piece does not tarnish so much as it wears through and then the metal underneath tarnishes. The distinction matters, because it tells you the fix is preventing wear rather than polishing harder.

Polishing an already worn piece makes it worse, since abrasive polish removes plate. If a piece has worn through, re-plating is the answer.

Does it contain nickel, and will it irritate my ears?

Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc. Nickel is not one of its constituents, so plain brass is nickel-free. However, some manufacturers add nickel to alloys, and some plating processes use a nickel underlayer between the base metal and the gold, which can surface as the plate wears.

If you have a diagnosed nickel allergy, ask the retailer directly rather than assuming. Look for earrings where the post is a stated precious metal. Alexandra Hakim’s gold earrings use 18K gold posts, so the part that actually sits in the piercing is solid gold, which is the part that matters most for sensitive ears.

Will it turn my skin green?

Only after the plate wears through, and then only sometimes. Green skin is copper reacting with moisture and the acids in sweat to form copper salts. It is completely harmless, it washes off with soap, and it stains nothing permanently.

It is more likely in hot weather, on rings and bracelets, which get the most contact, and on people whose skin runs acidic. Keeping a piece dry is the single best prevention.

How long does it last?

That depends almost entirely on how it is treated, which is genuinely good news because it means you control it.

• Worn daily in water and perfume: months before the plate thins visibly.
• Worn regularly, kept dry, wiped after use: several years looking good.
• Earrings and pendants: last longest, since they touch and rub least.
• Rings and bracelets: wear fastest, because hands are in everything.

How to look after it

The rules are short. Put it on last, after perfume, lotion and hairspray. Take it off before washing, swimming and bathing. Wipe with a soft dry cloth after wear to remove skin oils. Store pieces separately so they do not scratch each other.

Never use silver dip, an ultrasonic cleaner, and toothpaste on plated jewellery. All three remove the plating, and the last one is a persistent internet myth that has ruined a lot of jewellery.

Our full care guide covers the same ground for a specific collection.

Is it worth buying?

For designer jewellery, yes. Plating is what makes small-batch handmade work affordable at all. A cast piece in solid gold would cost ten times as much and would not look any different on.

Buy it knowing what it is: a wearing surface that rewards care. If you want something to wear in the shower for a decade without thinking, buy solid gold instead. If you want a designed object at a reachable price, plated brass is the honest answer.

Frequently asked questions

Does gold plated brass tarnish?

The gold layer does not tarnish, because gold is unreactive. What happens is that the plate wears thin at friction points, and the brass exposed underneath can then oxidise and darken.

Does gold plated brass contain nickel?

Brass itself is copper and zinc, so it is nickel-free. Some alloys and some plating processes add nickel, so ask the retailer if you have a diagnosed allergy. Earrings with stated gold posts are the safer choice.

Will gold plated brass turn my skin green?

Only once the plating wears through and bare brass meets damp skin. The green is copper salts, it is harmless and it washes off with soap.

How long does gold plated brass jewellery last?

Several years if you keep it dry, keep it away from perfume and lotion, and wipe it after wear. Months if you wear it in water daily. Earrings and pendants outlast rings and bracelets.

Can you shower with gold plated brass jewellery?

No. Water, soap, chlorine and salt all accelerate wear on the plate. Take plated pieces off before washing, swimming and bathing.

Can gold plating be redone?

Yes. A jeweller can re-plate a brass piece, which is worth doing for something you wear constantly and have worn through.

Is gold plated brass better than solid gold?

It is cheaper and it lets you buy handmade designer work at a reachable price. Solid gold lasts indefinitely and holds material value. They are answers to different questions.

Read next

• The Alexandra Hakim care guide
• Is Alexandra Hakim a luxury brand?
• Cubic zirconia, explained
• What is upcycled jewellery?

Sources

• Alexandra Hakim, About the designer
• Alexandra Hakim, Jewellery care
• Arab News, Lebanese designer using natural resources to make jewelry
• FashionUnited, Career Q and A with Alexandra Hakim

Prices and stock are as listed on Coveti at the time of writing and change with availability.

Written by Gemma Deeks, Fashion Editor at Coveti.