How to Wash Silk: Hand Washing, Dry Cleaning, Drying and Ironing Without Damage

To wash silk, read the care label first: if it says dry clean only, dry clean it. If hand washing is allowed, use cool water and a pH neutral detergent made for silk, swirl for no more than a few minutes, rinse in cool water, press the water out in a towel without wringing, and dry flat away from sun and heat. Silk is a protein fibre, much like hair, so heat, friction, strong alkalis and enzyme detergents all weaken it. The steps below cover washing, drying, ironing and storing silk, with notes on the silk pieces we stock from SIR the Label at Coveti.

Step one: check the care label

The label is the brand’s instruction for that exact cloth, dye and lining. Silk satin, printed silk and lined silk are usually labelled dry clean only, because water can leave marks on satin, make dyes bleed and shrink a lining at a different rate to the shell. Every silk piece SIR the Label makes in our current edit, including the Sorrento Bias Cut Pant in Black and the Strobe Cowl Top in Black, carries dry clean only. When a label says dry clean only, hand washing is a risk you take on yourself.

How to hand wash silk, step by step

Use this only on silk whose label allows hand washing.

1. Test the colour. Dab a damp white cloth on an inside seam. If colour transfers, dry clean instead.
2. Fill a clean basin with cool water, around 30C at most, and add a small amount of detergent made for silk and wool. Avoid biological detergents: the enzymes that break down protein stains break down silk too.
3. Submerge and swirl the garment gently for two to three minutes. Do not soak it for long and do not rub.
4. Rinse in cool water until no suds remain. A spoon of white vinegar in the last rinse helps remove residue and restore the sheen; rinse once more in plain water after it.
5. Press out the water. Lay the silk on a clean towel, roll it up and press. Never wring and never twist.
6. Dry flat in the shade, on a fresh towel, away from radiators and direct sun, which fades silk.

Can you machine wash silk?

Only when the label allows it. If it does, turn the garment inside out, put it in a mesh laundry bag, choose the delicate cycle with cold water and the lowest spin, and use a silk detergent. Never tumble dry silk. Satin weaves and chiffons are the most likely to snag in a drum, so they are the pieces to keep out of the machine.

When to dry clean silk

Dry clean silk satin, silk crepe de chine with a lining, printed silk, structured silk tailoring and anything with beading and lace trims. SIR the Label’s Montparnasse Halter Top in Black has placed lace and a lining; the Gabriete Pant in Burnt Orange has beads at its tie ends; both are dry clean only for good reason. Point out any marks to the cleaner and ask for a low heat press.

How to iron silk

Iron silk on the reverse, on the silk setting, while it is very slightly damp, with a pressing cloth between the iron and the fabric. Keep the iron moving. On satin, ironing the shiny face directly can leave a glazed patch. A handheld steamer is often easier: hold it a few centimetres away and let the creases drop out as the silk hangs.

How to remove creases from silk without an iron

Hang the silk in the bathroom while you shower, then smooth it by hand. For bias cut silk, like the Sorrento, hang it by the waistband so its own weight pulls out the folds.

How to store silk clothes

Store silk clean, because stains set with time and attract moths. Hang dresses and trousers on padded hangers, fold tops with tissue paper, and keep everything in a breathable cotton bag, not plastic. Keep silk out of direct light, which fades it, and away from damp, which can mark it.

Silk types and how each one behaves

For how these fabrics look on the body, read our guides to satin pants guide and silk pants for women, and our SIR the Label quality review.

Frequently asked questions

Can you wash silk in a washing machine?

Only if the care label allows it. Then use a mesh bag, the delicate cycle in cold water, the lowest spin and a silk detergent. Never tumble dry silk.

What detergent is safe for silk?

A pH neutral liquid detergent made for silk and wool. Avoid biological detergents with enzymes, bleach and fabric softener, which all damage the protein fibre.

Does silk shrink when washed?

Silk can shrink a little in warm water and in a dryer. Cool water and flat drying keep shrinkage to a minimum. Lined silk can pucker because the lining shrinks at a different rate.

How do you get water marks out of silk?

Water marks on satin usually come from uneven drying. Dampen the whole panel evenly with a spray of distilled water and let it dry flat, then steam on the reverse. If the mark stays, take it to a dry cleaner.

Is dry clean only silk really dry clean only?

Treat it as such. The label reflects the dye, the weave and the lining together. SIR the Label labels its silk satin, chiffon and crepe pieces dry clean only.

How often should you clean silk?

Clean silk after a few wears, and straight away after a spill and after heavy perspiration, because stains and deodorant weaken the fibre over time.