Maison Margiela T-Shirts and Shirts: The Editor’s Guide
Maison Margiela T-Shirts and Shirts: The Editor’s Guide
The Maison Margiela T-shirt and the Maison Margiela white shirt are the two easiest ways into the house. Both carry its quiet signals: the four white stitches at the back of the neck, a blank label inside and, on some tees, the numbers 0 to 23 from the label printed on the front. Coveti stocks more than 30 styles across T-shirts and shirts in the Maison Margiela collection.
Quick answer
- The signature tee: the Numeric Cotton Jersey T-Shirt in Black, printed with the label numbers.
- The logo tee: the Reverse Logo T-Shirt in White, with the house name printed backwards.
- The white shirt: the Cotton Poplin Shirt in White in crisp poplin.
- Fit: tees are straight and slightly boxy; shirts run long. Take your usual size.
The T-shirts
Numbers and logos
The Numeric Cotton Jersey T-Shirt in Black prints the sequence 0 to 23 across the chest, with one number circled, the way the label marks each line. The Reverse Logo T-Shirt in White and the Reverse Logo T-Shirt in Black print Maison Margiela in reverse, as if read through the fabric. The Embroidered Logo T-Shirt in Black keeps it to a small embroidered logo. Read about what the numbers mean.
Plain and painted
For a clean tee, the Cotton Jersey T-Shirt in White and the Cotton Jersey T-Shirt in Red are simple cotton jersey with the four stitches at the back. The Cotton T-Shirt in Cream comes in cream, red and dark grey. The Painted Flower Jersey T-Shirt in White is hand-painted with flowers, and the Tonal Patch Cotton Jersey T-Shirt in Black adds tonal patches.
The shirts
The white shirt
Margiela has made a version of the white shirt every season since the 1990s. The Cotton Poplin Shirt in White is the purest, in cotton poplin. The Cotton Shirt in White is longer and fuller. The Folded Collar Shirt in White and the Folded Collar Shirt in Light Grey fold the collar back on itself, a small piece of deconstruction you notice up close. The Cotton Poplin Pinstripe Shirt in White adds a fine pinstripe.
Statement shirts
The Cape-Sleeve Shirt in Black drapes the sleeves into a cape. The Stockman Shoulder Cotton Shirt in White has a reworked stockman shoulder. The Bonded Crease Long-Sleeve Shirt in Black is bonded so its folds stay sharp, and the Silk Floral Shirt in Black is printed silk. For denim, the Denim Shirt in Vintage Medium Blue and the Cropped Denim Shirt in Blue are the picks.
How they fit
The T-shirts are cut straight with a slightly dropped shoulder. The shirts run long, with room to tuck in and a back that falls lower than the front on several styles. Take your usual size for both. Maison Margiela sizes its ready-to-wear in Italian sizes, which run four above UK, so an IT 42 is a UK 10. Knitwear comes in letter sizes and jeans in waist sizes. The full conversion is in our Maison Margiela size guide.
How to wear them
- A numbers tee under a long wool coat with straight jeans.
- A white poplin shirt open over a knit tank top with tailored trousers.
- A folded-collar shirt tucked into a washed silk satin midi skirt.
How to care for them
Wash cotton tees cold, inside out, and dry flat to keep the print. Iron poplin shirts while slightly damp. Silk shirts are dry clean only.
Maison Margiela at a glance
| Founded | 1988, Paris, by Martin Margiela and Jenny Meirens |
| Creative director | Glenn Martens, since January 2025 (after Martin Margiela to 2009 and John Galliano, 2014 to 2024) |
| Owner | OTB, the Italian group founded by Renzo Rosso, majority owner since 2002 |
| Signatures | The four white stitches, the blank numbered label, the Tabi split toe, deconstruction, Artisanal remade garments |
| Lines | Artisanal (couture), the main collection, and MM6 Maison Margiela, launched in 1997 |
| Made in | Most ready-to-wear is made in Italy; a few pieces are made in France |
| Sizes at Coveti | Italian sizes IT 36 to 50 (UK 4 to 18), letter sizes XS to XXL for knitwear, waist sizes for jeans |
Frequently asked questions
What is the Maison Margiela numbers T-shirt?
A cotton jersey T-shirt printed with the numbers 0 to 23 from the house label, with one number circled. It is one of the best-known Margiela tees.
Do Maison Margiela T-shirts run small?
No. They are cut straight and slightly boxy, so take your usual size.
Why are there four stitches on the back of a Margiela T-shirt?
They hold the blank white label inside the neck and show through on the outside. They are the house signature.
What is the best Maison Margiela white shirt?
The Cotton Poplin Shirt is the cleanest. The Folded Collar Shirt adds a subtle deconstructed collar.
How do I wash a Maison Margiela T-shirt?
Wash it cold and inside out, then dry it flat. Avoid the tumble dryer to protect the print.
Read next: the four stitches explained, the size guide, Margiela knitwear.
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