The Maison Margiela Tabi: History, Styles and How to Wear Them

The Tabi is the most recognisable thing Maison Margiela makes: a boot, flat and sneaker with the big toe split from the others, so the foot looks like a hoof. Martin Margiela put it on his first runway, and more than 35 years later it is still the house's signature shoe. Coveti stocks the Maison Margiela women's ready-to-wear, not shoes, fragrance and collaboration pieces, so this guide links to the clothes that go with them in the Maison Margiela collection. For the clothes to wear them with, see the trousers and jeans edit and the Straight-Leg Jeans in Light Blue.

Quick answer

• What it is: a split-toe shoe based on Japanese tabi socks and jika-tabi work shoes.
• When it started: Margiela designed it in 1988 and showed it in his first show, for Spring Summer 1989.
• Styles: boots, ballet flats, Mary Janes, loafers, sandals and sneakers.
• How to wear it: with cropped trousers, a midi skirt and anything that shows the toe.

Where the Tabi comes from

Tabi are split-toe socks worn in Japan since the 15th century, made to be worn with thong sandals. In the 1920s, they became footwear: the jika-tabi, a work shoe with a rubber sole and metal clasps, still worn by builders and gardeners in Japan. Martin Margiela took that split toe and turned it into a heeled leather boot.

The 1989 runway

For his first show, Margiela dipped the soles of the Tabi boots in red paint so the models left split-toe footprints across the white runway cloth. The shoe divided the audience then and still does, which is part of its appeal. Read the full story in who is Martin Margiela.

The Tabi styles

• Tabi boots: the original, on a cylindrical heel, in leather and suede.
• Tabi ballet flats and Mary Janes: the most worn versions today.
• Tabi sneakers: including the 2020 Reebok collaboration on the Instapump Fury and Classic Leather.
• Tabi loafers and sandals: seasonal versions of the split toe.

More in our guide to Maison Margiela collaborations.

How Tabi fit

The split toe changes how a shoe holds the foot, so try them on, check the house size guide and allow a few wears for the leather to give. Socks are part of the look: split-toe socks keep the line clean.

How to wear Tabi with Maison Margiela clothes

The Tabi needs to be seen, so pick hems that stop above the ankle.

1. Straight-Leg Jeans in Light Blue

Straight jeans that end just above the ankle, the easiest pairing.

2. Satin-Waist Virgin Wool Tuxedo Trousers in Black

Tuxedo trousers with Tabi flats for evening.

3. Washed Silk Satin Midi Skirt in Black

A washed silk midi skirt with Tabi boots.

4. Taped Slip Dress in Black

The taped slip dress with Tabi Mary Janes.

5. Virgin Wool Long Coat in Black

A long wool coat over everything, Tabi boots underneath.

Maison Margiela at a glance

Frequently asked questions

What is a Maison Margiela Tabi?

A shoe with a split toe that separates the big toe from the others. Martin Margiela based it on Japanese tabi socks and showed it in his first show in 1989.

When did Maison Margiela make the first Tabi?

Martin Margiela designed the Tabi boot in 1988 and showed it on his first runway, for Spring Summer 1989.

Why is it called Tabi?

It is named after tabi, the Japanese split-toe socks worn with thong sandals since the 15th century.

Are Tabi comfortable?

Many wearers find them comfortable once the leather softens. Try them on, because the split toe fits differently from a regular shoe.

Does Coveti sell Maison Margiela Tabi?

Coveti stocks the Maison Margiela women's ready-to-wear. This guide shows the clothes that go best with Tabi.

What do you wear with Tabi boots?

Cropped jeans, tuxedo trousers, midi skirts and slip dresses, anything that shows the split toe.

Read next: who is Martin Margiela, Margiela collaborations, Margiela trousers and jeans.