Men’s Cashmere Sweaters: How to Choose Gauge, Ply and Fit

The best men’s cashmere sweater is chosen by gauge, yarn weight and fit: a fine 12-gauge crew neck slips under tailoring, a thick 7-gauge knit stands alone as outerwear in mild weather, and a 70/30 wool and cashmere blend adds resilience for hoodies and zip sweaters. Yves Salomon, the Paris fur and leather house, knits all three for men, and you can shop them on the Yves Salomon brand page, in men’s knitwear and in men’s sweatshirts. To layer them well, start with our guide to luxury overshirts for men.

By Gemma Deeks, Coveti Fashion Editor. Updated 22 October 2026.

Key facts

• Gauge is the number of needles per inch on the knitting machine: a higher number gives a finer, thinner knit.
• A 12-gauge cashmere sweater is fine and close to the body, while a 7-gauge cashmere sweater is thicker and warmer.
• Ply, also called threads, is the number of yarn strands twisted together; more threads make a heavier, more durable knit.
• The Yves Salomon fine and thick cashmere crew necks are both 100% cashmere and 67 cm long.
• The Yves Salomon men’s zip sweaters, hoodies and knit jogging trousers are 70% wool and 30% cashmere.
• Yves Salomon says its men’s cashmere knitwear runs true to size, in letter sizes from S to XL, with some styles to XXL.

How do you choose a men’s cashmere sweater?

Three numbers matter: gauge, ply and yarn count.

Gauge tells you how fine the knit is. At 12 gauge the stitches are small and flat, so the sweater lies smoothly under a jacket. At 7 gauge the stitches are bigger and the fabric plumper. The Fine Cashmere Crew Neck Jumper in Grey Marl is 12 gauge; the Thick Knit Cashmere Crew Neck Jumper in Oatmeal is 7 gauge.

Ply counts the strands twisted into each yarn. Two-ply is the classic standard for a fine knit; three threads give more body and recovery. The Wool and Cashmere High-Neck Zip Sweater in Sand uses a 7-gauge, three-thread yarn in a pearl rib, which is why it holds its shape like a light jacket.

Yarn count appears on spec sheets as two numbers, such as 2/26. The first is the ply, the second is the metric count: how many metres of single strand are spun from one gram. A 2/26 yarn is two strands of a 26 Nm single, the familiar weight for a fine everyday cashmere knit, and a higher second number means a thinner strand. Every Yves Salomon cashmere knit here is spun from 2/26 yarn: the fine crew neck at 12 gauge with three threads, the thick crew neck at 7 gauge with two threads, and the polo and high-neck zip at 7 gauge with three threads.

Fine, thick and blended: a comparison

Pure cashmere vs a 70/30 wool and cashmere blend

Pure cashmere is the softest option and the warmest for its weight. It suits a crew neck worn against the skin all day. A 70% wool and 30% cashmere blend trades a little of that softness for resilience: wool fibres are springier, so the knit recovers its shape and stands up better to zips, drawstrings and daily wear.

That is why Yves Salomon uses the blend on its more casual pieces. The Zip-Front Wool and Cashmere Trucker Collar Sweater in Brown has a full metal zip and a collar that closes to the chin, and the knit hoodie carries drawstrings through the hood. Most men’s cashmere hoodies are blends for this reason.

How should a cashmere sweater fit?

The fine and thick crew necks are cut close to the body, so the brand advice to take your usual size holds: they are meant to skim, not hang. Both are 67 cm long, which covers the waistband with room to tuck. The polo is shorter at 64 cm and sits at the belt.

Sizes are letters rather than French numbers: the crew necks come in S to XL, with the thick version to XXL, and the polo runs S to XXL. The models are 183 cm and 188 cm tall and wear S. For outerwear sized in French numbers, see the Yves Salomon men’s size guide.

How do you layer cashmere under tailoring and shearling?

Under a blazer, the rule is thin: a 12-gauge crew neck adds warmth without bulk at the shoulder and keeps the jacket’s line. Try it with the Double-Sided Wool and Cashmere Blazer in Grey Marl, whose cupro lining slips easily over knitwear.

Under shearling, go thicker. A 7-gauge crew neck fills the space inside a short shearling jacket. The Curly Wool Suede Lambskin Shearling Jacket is 72 cm long and cut to sit easily over a shirt and knit. Our men’s shearling jackets guide covers the rest of the line.

How do you wash, store and de-pill cashmere?

Hand wash in cool water with a gentle wool detergent, press the water out in a towel and dry the sweater flat, away from radiators and direct sun. Never hang wet cashmere: the weight stretches it.

Store knits folded, not on hangers, in a breathable bag with cedar to deter moths. Pilling is normal in the first weeks, as loose short fibres work to the surface where the knit rubs, typically under the arms and at the cuffs. Remove pills gently with a cashmere comb; it slows as the loose fibres go.

Our picks

1. Fine Cashmere Crew Neck Jumper in Grey Marl

The tailoring layer: pure 12-gauge cashmere, close-fitting and 67 cm long.

2. Fine Cashmere Crew Neck Jumper in Pampas Beige

The same fine knit in a warm neutral for navy and grey tailoring.

3. Thick Knit Cashmere Crew Neck Jumper in Oatmeal

Chunkier 7-gauge pure cashmere for real warmth, still close in shape and sized to XXL.

4. Heavy Cashmere Knit Polo Sweater in Brown

Thick pure cashmere in a pearl rib with a three-button placket, the smart alternative to a crew neck.

5. Wool and Cashmere High-Neck Zip Sweater in Sand

A 7-gauge, three-thread blend with a zip collar that holds its shape.

6. Zip-Front Wool and Cashmere Trucker Collar Sweater in Sand

A generous ribbed knit with a full metal zip, as easy to throw on as a jacket.

7. Wool and Cashmere Knit Hoodie in Brown

A men’s cashmere hoodie with drawstring hood and ribbed trims; wear it with the matching Knit Jogging Trousers in Brown, also offered in Grey Marl to match the Grey Marl hoodie.

8. Chunky Cashmere Marl Beanie in Oatmeal

Pure cashmere in a pearl rib marl, one size, to finish the look; also in Brown.

Frequently asked questions

What gauge is best for a men’s cashmere sweater?

A 12-gauge cashmere sweater is best for layering under jackets because it is fine and flat. A 7-gauge sweater is better worn alone, since the thicker knit is warmer and has more texture.

Is 2-ply cashmere better than 1-ply?

Yes, for a sweater you plan to wear often. Two strands twisted together make a stronger, more balanced yarn that holds its shape better than a single strand.

Does a men’s cashmere sweater run small?

Yves Salomon says its men’s cashmere knitwear runs true to size, so take your usual letter size. The crew necks are cut close-fitting by design.

Is a wool and cashmere blend worth buying?

A 70% wool and 30% cashmere blend is a smart choice for hoodies and zip sweaters, because wool adds spring and durability while cashmere keeps the hand soft.

Why is my cashmere sweater pilling?

Pilling happens when short loose fibres rub to the surface in high-friction areas. It is normal early on, and a cashmere comb removes the pills without damaging the knit.

Build the rest of the wardrobe with our guides to Yves Salomon menswear, luxury down jackets for men and luxury leather jackets for men, and see every piece on the Yves Salomon brand page.