Brunello Cucinelli Men’s Cashmere Sweaters: The Buying Guide

A Brunello Cucinelli men’s cashmere sweater is best judged the way any good one is, on yarn, knit and shape: how the fibre is spun, how tightly it is knitted, and whether the neckline suits how you dress. Brunello Cucinelli, which began in 1978 as a cashmere knitwear house, leads Coveti’s picks, with the full range in our men’s knitwear edit and the Brunello Cucinelli hub.

What makes a good men’s cashmere sweater?

Cashmere is soft in the shop almost by definition. The real test is how it looks after a winter of wear. Three things decide that: the quality of the yarn, the density of the knit and the finishing. A well-made sweater feels substantial for its weight, springs back when you stretch the cuff gently, and keeps its shape at the shoulders and hem. A cheap one feels fluffy at first, then thins at the elbows.

Brunello Cucinelli is a good place to start because cashmere is where the house began: it was founded on women’s knitwear in coloured cashmere, and menswear followed. For a wider look at gauge and ply across other houses, see our men’s cashmere sweaters guide. Everything is made in Italy, mostly in Umbria. Our Brunello Cucinelli cashmere guide covers the house’s knitwear history, and our guide to Brunello Cucinelli menswear places the knits within the wider line.

Ply and gauge, explained simply

Two terms come up on almost every cashmere label and buying guide.

• Ply is the number of strands twisted together to make the yarn. Two-ply is the classic standard for a versatile sweater. More ply generally means a heavier, warmer yarn; it does not on its own mean better fibre.
• Gauge is how many stitches fit in a set width on the knitting machine. A high gauge gives a fine, smooth, flat knit that sits neatly under tailoring. A low gauge gives a chunkier, more textured knit that works as an outer layer.

For a first cashmere sweater, a fine to mid-weight knit is the most useful. It goes under a blazer, over a shirt and on its own at the weekend. Save the chunky knits for the second and third.

Crew, turtleneck, half zip, polo: which neckline?

The neckline matters more than most men think, because it decides what you can wear the sweater with. Here is how the Brunello Cucinelli knits now at Coveti compare.

The Cashmere sweater in Panama is the one to buy first: a warm neutral crew that goes with grey, navy, brown and denim. The Cashmere turtleneck sweater is the most formal of the knits, and our men’s turtleneck guide shows it with tailoring. The Cashmere sweater with half zip blends silk into the cashmere for a slightly smoother handle; more on the shape in our half zip sweater guide.

The Cashmere knit polo shirt solves the jacket-without-a-tie question better than a cotton polo does. The Cashmere cardigan in navy is effectively a soft jacket; see the men’s cashmere cardigan guide. And the Cashmere jersey sweater in Stone Grey, made in a smooth, flat jersey rather than a classic sweater knit, is the softest and most relaxed, sold with matching cashmere jersey trousers.

Other men’s cashmere sweaters worth knowing

Brunello Cucinelli is not the only name. Herno makes plain cashmere crews in strong neutrals, such as the Camel Sweater in Cashmere and the Dark Blue Sweater in Cashmere, plus a textured Cashmere and Wool Fisherman’s Rib Sweater. Yves Salomon’s Wool and Cashmere High-Neck Zip Sweater in Sand is a good option for wearing under a shearling. For a house that focuses on cashmere alone, browse N.Peal. Our round-up of the best cashmere brands compares more names.

How should a men’s cashmere sweater fit?

A crew should skim the body without pulling across the chest, with shoulder seams sitting at the edge of your shoulder and the hem resting at the top of the hip. Too long and it bunches under a jacket. Too short and it rides up when you reach. Sleeves should finish at the wrist bone; a little extra length is fine because cashmere cuffs push up neatly.

For tailoring, choose a finer knit and a closer fit so the jacket sits cleanly over it. For an outer layer, a little more room is fine. Coveti shows Brunello Cucinelli numbered knitwear as UK/US chest, at Italian size minus 10, and the jersey pieces in letters. Our Brunello Cucinelli men’s size guide has the tables.

Why does cashmere price vary so much?

Two sweaters can both say “100% cashmere” and be completely different garments. The differences sit in places you cannot read on a label:

• Fibre grade. Longer, finer fibres pill less and stay soft for longer. Shorter fibres are cheaper and shed sooner.
• Spinning and yarn. A well-spun yarn is even and strong; a loosely spun one feels soft but wears through faster.
• Knit density. A dense knit uses more yarn per sweater, which costs more and holds its shape better.
• Finishing. Washing, linking seams by hand and careful pressing all add time and cost.

The practical lesson: judge a sweater by its weight in the hand, its recovery when stretched and its seams, not by the word cashmere alone.

How to care for a cashmere sweater

Cashmere lasts for years when it is looked after. Rest it a day between wears, fold it rather than hanging it, and store it clean with cedar to protect against moths. Wash by hand in cool water with a gentle wool wash, press out the water in a towel and dry it flat. Remove any pilling with a cashmere comb. Our full guide on how to wash cashmere walks through each step.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best men’s cashmere sweater to buy first?

A fine to mid-weight crew neck in a warm neutral is the most useful first buy, because it works under a blazer, over a shirt and on its own. The Brunello Cucinelli Cashmere sweater in Panama is a good example.

Is a Brunello Cucinelli cashmere sweater worth it?

Brunello Cucinelli was founded on cashmere knitwear in 1978 and makes everything in Italy, mostly in Umbria. If you want a sweater to wear for many winters, the yarn, knit and finishing are what you are paying for.

What does ply mean in cashmere?

Ply is the number of strands twisted together to make the yarn. Two-ply is the classic standard; more ply makes a heavier yarn but does not on its own mean better fibre.

How should a men’s cashmere sweater fit?

It should skim the chest without pulling, with shoulder seams at the edge of the shoulder, the hem at the top of the hip and sleeves ending at the wrist bone. Choose a closer fit for wearing under tailoring.

How do you stop a cashmere sweater from pilling?

Some pilling is normal at first. Rest the sweater between wears, wash it by hand and dry it flat, and lift any pills with a cashmere comb. Better grades of cashmere with longer fibres pill less over time.