Men’s Overcoats: Overcoat vs Topcoat vs Car Coat, Explained

A men’s overcoat is a heavy, tailored wool coat worn over a suit, usually ending at the knee, while a topcoat is a lighter version and a car coat is a shorter one cut for driving. Herno, the Lake Maggiore outerwear house founded in 1948, makes all three, and its signature twist is a removable bib in technical nylon that keeps wind out of a classic wool coat.

Quick answer

• Overcoat: heavy wool, knee length, built for real cold and worn over tailoring.
• Topcoat: lighter cloth, often a little shorter, for autumn and spring.
• Car coat: hip to upper-thigh length so it does not bunch when you sit and drive.
• Look for the shoulder seam at your natural shoulder and a sleeve that covers the jacket cuff.
• Herno sizes are Italian: the UK/US chest size is the Italian size minus 10, so IT 52 is a 42.
• The Herno overcoats, topcoats and car coats in this edit cost $1,940 to $4,440 at Coveti.

Overcoat vs topcoat vs car coat: what is the difference?

The words get used loosely, and shops swap them all the time. The useful way to tell them apart is weight and length.

A Chesterfield, a polo coat and a covert coat are all styles of overcoat and topcoat. What matters more for most men is the job: a city commuter who walks needs length, while a man who spends his day in and out of a car needs a shorter coat that will not crease into a mess at the seat.

What should a men’s overcoat be made of?

Wool is still the answer. It is warm, it drapes, it recovers from creasing and it shrugs off light rain. The weave and finish change how a coat behaves.

• Double-faced wool: two layers of cloth woven together, so the coat needs little lining and feels soft against you.
• Herringbone: a zigzag twill that hides wear and adds texture without pattern.
• Cashmere: lighter for its warmth and very soft, but more delicate at the cuffs and pockets.
• Alpaca blends: full-bodied and warm, with a slight bloom on the surface.

Herno adds something most tailors do not: a removable bib in technical nylon sitting inside the front. It works like a built-in scarf, blocking wind at the chest without adding bulk. Several of the coats below use the house’s Nylon Ultralight, which Herno describes as highly water-resistant with a silk-like feel. Some also use RWS (Responsible Wool Standard) certified virgin wool.

How should an overcoat fit?

An overcoat is the outermost layer of a tailored outfit, so it is cut fuller than a jacket. The shoulder seam should sit at, not beyond, your natural shoulder. The coat should button over a suit jacket without pulling. The sleeve should hide your jacket sleeve and shirt cuff.

Herno uses Italian sizing. Coveti lists each coat in UK/US chest sizes, which are the Italian size minus 10.

Herno does not publish a blanket rule that its coats run small. Order your usual jacket size. Size up one only if you will wear a thick knit under a slim-fit piece. The full chart sits in our Herno size guide.

The best Herno overcoats, topcoats and car coats

1. Anthracite Coat in Double-Layered Herringbone Wool Fabric

The classic overcoat of the edit, at $2,480. Herno uses a fine double-faced pure worsted wool with a herringbone weave that brings out the colour contrast. Careful fulling, a medium-fine wool and a final KD treatment give it a soft handle. Anthracite is the most versatile coat colour there is, easy over charcoal, navy and black suits. Sizes run 38 to 44.

2. Navy Blue Coat in Diagonal Wool Fabric

A premium merino wool coat at $3,110, made with the double-construction technique: two layers of fabric woven together on the loom and joined by an extremely fine binding thread. The result is warm and enveloping without weight. Herno cut it with a sophisticated silhouette for formal and city looks. Navy reads smart over everything. Sizes 38 to 44.

3. Dark Blue Coat in Pure Cashmere and Nylon Ultralight

The luxury choice at $4,440. The outer is pure cashmere with a sable-effect finish, rich and radiant to the touch. Inside sits a bib in Herno’s Nylon Ultralight, highly water-resistant with a silk-like feel, which keeps the chest warm on windy days. It is the coat for a man who wears tailoring every day and wants the softest version. Sizes run widely, 34 to 50.

4. Ecowool and Nylon Ultralight Coat in Navy Blue

A topcoat weight at $1,940, the entry point to the edit. It is cut from a two-tone worsted virgin wool twill made with RWS-certified wool, processed within a short supply chain in Tuscany, and paired with Herno’s Nylon Ultralight. That makes it lighter than a full overcoat and ideal for autumn and spring. It suits men who want a responsible wool choice. Sizes 34 to 48.

5. Alpaca, Wool Herringbone and Suede Effect Coat in Dark Brown

The textured option at $4,220. Herno blends baby alpaca with wool boucle yarns for a soft, full-bodied cloth, and finishes it with suede-effect microfibre details. A lapel collar, welt pockets, buttoned cuffs and a button front keep the look classic. Dark brown is the colour for men who already own the navy coat. Sizes 36 to 44.

6. Wool-Blend, Viscose and Suede-Effect Carcoat in Light Grey

A true car coat at $2,270. The viscose and virgin wool blend is woven from a special 50-denier yarn that keeps it light, with suede microfibre details. Goose down padding, striped quilting, a high collar and a removable bib turn it into a proper winter piece in a shorter length that will not crease when you drive. Light grey is fresh over dark knits. Sizes 36 to 46.

7. Il Cappotto in Anthracite

Herno’s technical take on the classic coat, at $1,970. Il Cappotto is made from recycled nylon microfibre with a light coating on the reverse, giving a soft hand and a waterproof matt finish. It has a removable windproof bib with a two-way zip and two handwarmer pockets. Choose it as a travel topcoat that cannot be ruined by rain. Sizes 38 to 48.

How to wear an overcoat

The rule is simple: the overcoat should cover what is under it. Your jacket hem should never peek out below. With a suit, a knee-length coat in navy will cover almost every meeting you have, and grey and charcoal work just as well.

At the weekend, wear the same coat over a roll-neck and flannel trousers. It is the quickest way to look put together without a tie. Our men’s knitwear and trousers edits have pieces that sit well under a coat.

If you live somewhere seriously cold, consider a down-padded car coat for daily use and a wool overcoat for formal days. For the coldest climates, see our guide to the best luxury winter coats for men.

Overcoats around the world

• UK: A topcoat weight covers most of the British winter, and a membrane makes it more useful in the rain. UK chest sizes match the numbers on our product pages.
• US: New York and Chicago winters call for a full overcoat in double-faced wool and cashmere. US chest sizes are the same numbers as UK.
• Europe: In Milan and Munich the overcoat is everyday business wear. Labels carry Italian sizes, so IT 52 is a 42.
• Japan: Tokyo winters are dry and cool, which suits lighter topcoats. Herno opened stores in Osaka and Tokyo in 1968.
• Middle East and Australia: A Gulf winter rarely needs an overcoat, but frequent travellers to Europe keep a topcoat for the trip. Melbourne’s June to August winter suits a wool topcoat. Coveti ships from hubs in the UAE and Australia, with duties calculated at checkout.

Buying a Herno overcoat at Coveti

Every piece is 100% authentic and checked before dispatch, with worldwide express shipping. Browse the full range on the Herno brand page, compare with all men’s coats, and see quieter cashmere tailoring from Brunello Cucinelli. Our returns page explains the process. For a wider look at the house, read is Herno a good brand.

Read next: Herno coats for men, the men’s trench coat guide and quiet luxury outerwear for men.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between an overcoat and a topcoat?

An overcoat is made from heavier cloth and usually ends at the knee and below, for deep winter. A topcoat is lighter, often a little shorter, and worn in autumn and spring. Both are cut to go over a suit jacket.

What is a car coat?

A car coat is a shorter coat, ending between the hip and upper thigh, designed so it does not bunch up when you sit and drive. It is usually worn with knitwear and casual tailoring rather than a formal suit.

How long should a men’s overcoat be?

A classic overcoat ends at the knee and slightly below. It should always be longer than the suit jacket underneath so that no jacket hem shows.

What size overcoat should I buy?

Buy your usual jacket size, because overcoats are cut to fit over tailoring. Herno uses Italian sizes, and the UK/US chest size is the Italian size minus 10, so IT 50 is a 40.

Why do Herno coats have a bib?

Many Herno coats have a removable bib inside the front, often in technical nylon, that blocks wind at the chest like a built-in scarf. It can be taken out on milder days.