Men’s Trench Coats: History, Fit, Fabrics and the Best Picks

A good men’s trench coat is a belted, knee-length rain coat cut to fit over a jacket, with enough room across the back to move and a sleeve that covers the shirt cuff. Herno, the Italian house that began making men’s raincoats on Lake Maggiore in 1948, now builds its trench in a laminated stretch fabric with a removable bib, which is the modern version of that classic brief.

Quick answer

• The trench coat takes its name from the First World War, when officers wore belted, water-resistant coats in the trenches.
• Classic trench details: double-breasted front, wide lapels, a belt at the waist, shoulder straps and cuff straps.
• The right length for most men is at the knee; shorter versions sit mid-thigh and suit shorter frames.
• Buy your usual jacket size so the coat closes over a blazer; size up one only if you plan a thick knit under a slim cut.
• Herno sizes are Italian: subtract 10 for the UK/US chest, so IT 50 is a 40.
• The Herno trench and rain-ready coats in this edit cost $1,990 to $2,080 at Coveti.

Where does the trench coat come from?

The trench is a military coat that went civilian. During the First World War, officers needed a coat lighter than the heavy wool greatcoat, one that would shed rain and still let them move. The result was a belted, double-breasted coat in tightly woven cotton, and the name stuck to the trenches it was worn in.

Most of the details you still see were practical. The storm flap at the shoulder kept rain from running into the front opening. The belt pulled the coat close against wind. Straps at the cuff closed the sleeve around the wrist. After the war the coat moved into city wardrobes, and it has never really left.

Herno’s own story starts with the same problem. Giuseppe Marenzi and Alessandra Diana founded the company in 1948 in Lesa, on Lake Maggiore, and their first product was the men’s raincoat. Post-war materials were scarce, so the early coats used cotton treated with castor oil to keep the water out. You can read more in our profile who is Herno.

How should a men’s trench coat fit?

Fit is where most trench coats go wrong. A trench is outerwear, so it has to close comfortably over a suit jacket without pulling at the buttons. At the same time it should not look borrowed.

Herno publishes a fit type for each product, and most of its coats are Regular fit. The house does not publish a blanket statement that it runs small, so the best advice is simple: order your usual jacket size. Our Herno size guide has the full conversion chart.

Cotton gabardine versus technical fabrics

The traditional trench is cotton gabardine, a dense twill that sheds light rain. It looks wonderful, creases with character and breathes well. Its limit is sustained rain: once cotton is saturated, water gets through.

Technical trench coats swap the cotton for a synthetic face, a laminated layer, a bonded membrane, a water-repellent finish, sometimes all of these. They weigh less, pack better and keep you drier. The trade is a cleaner, smoother look, which some men prefer in the city anyway.

If you want the deeper explanation of membranes and water columns, read our ranking of the best men’s raincoats.

The best Herno trench and membrane coats

To be clear about what follows: Herno makes one true trench coat this season, offered in two colours. The other picks are tailored rain coats that do the trench’s job in a different shape. We have labelled each one honestly.

1. Navy Blue Trench Coat in Washington

This is the Herno trench, priced at $2,080 and made in Italy. The Washington fabric is a laminated, run-resistant two-way stretch nylon treated to resist water, so it moves with you on a bike and on a train. Light feather padding and a removable bib with a two-way zip make it a three-season coat. Navy is the most useful colour for business. It also comes in a softer pearl grey at the same price. Sizes run 36 to 48.

2. Vintage-Effect Wool-Blend Raincoat in Light Taupe

Not a belted trench, but the closest Herno gets to the classic mac. At $1,990, it is woven from thick wool yarns blended with polyester for a vintage look, with a dense weave and a soft finish. Herno describes it as a proposal inspired by the classics, made for business outfits and city looks. Light taupe sits beautifully over grey flannel and navy suiting. Sizes run 36 to 42, so it suits slimmer frames.

3. 2-Layer Gore-Tex Coat in Black

For the man who wants trench protection with a cleaner line. This $2,050 coat pairs lightweight stretch nylon in a 30-denier weave with a Gore-Tex membrane. It has a lapel collar, goose down padding and a removable bib, and Herno designed it for formal occasions and business commitments in the city. Black looks sharp over a dark suit. Sizes 36 to 46.

4. Flannel Coat with Waterproof Membrane in Dark Brown

A tailored wool-blend flannel coat at $2,080, backed with a waterproof membrane rated to a 500 mm water column. That makes it showerproof rather than storm-proof, which is exactly right for a man who drives and walks short distances. The flannel face looks like tailoring, not technical gear. Dark brown is a refined alternative to the usual navy trench. Sizes 36 to 46.

How to wear a trench coat

Over a suit is the obvious answer, and it works. A navy trench over a grey suit with black shoes is about as safe as menswear gets. The coat should be the longest layer, with no jacket hem showing below.

Off duty, a trench works over a crew-neck knit and dark trousers. Push the sleeves of the knit up slightly so nothing bunches at the wrist. Our edit of men’s knitwear has fine-gauge pieces that sit flat under a coat.

Belt it on cold days and leave it open on mild ones. Just avoid wearing a bulky down jacket underneath: if you need that much warmth, you need a different coat, and our guide to men’s overcoats covers the warmer options.

Trench coats around the world

• UK: Mild, wet and windy for much of the year, which makes the trench close to a year-round coat. UK chest sizes match the numbers on our product pages, so a UK 40 buys a 40.
• US: A trench suits spring and autumn in New York and the Pacific Northwest. In a Chicago winter it is a shoulder-season coat. US chest sizes are the same numbers as UK.
• Europe: In Milan and Paris the trench is a business staple. Labels carry Italian sizes, so remember IT 50 equals a UK/US 40.
• Japan: The early summer rainy season makes a light, packable trench useful. Herno has had stores in Tokyo and Osaka since 1968.
• Middle East and Australia: In the Gulf a light trench is a travel coat for trips to Europe. In Melbourne and Sydney it covers the June to August winter. Coveti ships from hubs in the UAE and Australia, with duties shown at checkout.

Where to buy a Herno trench coat

Herno is widely stocked by department stores and online retailers. Coveti sells it 100% authentic, checked before dispatch, with worldwide express shipping. You can browse every style on the Herno brand page, see all men’s coats, and check our returns policy before you order. For more on stockists, read where to buy Herno.

Read next: Herno raincoats and Laminar, the men’s peacoat guide and Herno coats for men.

Frequently asked questions

What length should a men’s trench coat be?

For most men a trench coat should end at the knee. Shorter men can choose a mid-thigh length, and taller men can wear a coat just below the knee. The coat should always be longer than the jacket worn under it.

Should I size up in a trench coat?

Buy your usual jacket size, since a trench is cut to go over a blazer. Size up one only if you plan to wear a thick knit under a slim-fit coat. Herno uses Italian sizes, and the UK/US chest size is the Italian size minus 10.

Is a trench coat waterproof?

A classic cotton gabardine trench is water-resistant, not waterproof, and copes with showers. A technical trench that combines a laminated fabric, a membrane and a water-repellent treatment gives far better protection in sustained rain.

Does Herno make a trench coat?

Yes. The Herno Trench Coat in Washington is made in Italy from a laminated, run-resistant two-way stretch fabric treated to resist water, with feather padding and a removable bib. Coveti stocks it in navy blue and pearl grey at $2,080.

What is the difference between a trench coat and a mac?

A trench coat is usually double-breasted with a belt, wide lapels and shoulder straps, all from its military origins. A mac is a simpler single-breasted raincoat with a cleaner line and fewer details.