Quiet Luxury Menswear: An Old Money Wardrobe Built on Herno

Quiet luxury menswear is clothing whose value shows in the fabric, cut and finish rather than in logos: navy, grey, camel and cream, in cashmere, merino and fine technical cloth. Herno fits the brief because its only real branding is a small metal logo plate, and a complete wardrobe of coats, knitwear, shirts and trousers can be built from it at Coveti, from $940 a piece.

Quick answer

• Definition: expensive clothes that do not announce themselves. No large logos, no loud colours, no trend pieces.
• Palette: navy, grey, camel, chantilly, dark brown and cream.
• Fabrics: cashmere, merino, wool flannel, cashmere and silk, and quiet technical nylon.
• Why Herno: an Italian outerwear house founded in 1948 on Lake Maggiore, branded only with a small metal logo plate.
• Cost at Coveti: Herno knitwear $880 to $1,720, trousers $680 to $2,410, coats $1,270 to $6,350.
• Build order: coat first, then two knits, two trousers, a shirt, shoes.

What is quiet luxury menswear?

Quiet luxury is a way of dressing where quality does the talking. The clothes are plain at a glance and remarkable up close: the hand of a cashmere jumper, the drape of a wool trouser, the way a coat sits on the shoulder. Anyone who knows will notice. Everyone else will just think you look well put together.

The idea is old. What changed is that a wider audience started searching for it, and for its close cousin, old money style. Both reward the same habits: fewer, better pieces, a narrow colour palette, and clothes that last more than one season.

Is quiet luxury the same as old money style?

They overlap heavily, with a different emphasis. Old money style borrows from inherited wardrobes: navy blazers, cable knits, polo shirts, loafers, the clothes of sailing clubs and country weekends. Quiet luxury is broader and more modern. It includes technical outerwear, trainers and relaxed tailoring, as long as the quality is high and the branding is low.

A good modern wardrobe takes from both. The cable knit and the camel coat come from old money. The padded blazer and the suede trainer come from quiet luxury. Herno happens to make both kinds of piece.

Why is Herno a quiet luxury brand?

Herno was founded in 1948 in Lesa, Piedmont, on Lake Maggiore, by Giuseppe Marenzi and Alessandra Diana. It began with men’s raincoats, added cashmere coats in the 1950s, and for years produced outerwear for other luxury houses before putting its own label first. From the 1980s it built its name on very light nylon parkas and down jackets. In the 2000s Claudio Marenzi, the founders’ son, refocused the company on the Herno label and brought the supply chain in-house.

That history explains the style. A company that spent decades making coats for others learned to let the garment speak. Herno’s branding is a small metal logo plate on the back. Its fabrics carry the message: Nylon Ultralight, recycled nylon microfibre, RWS virgin wool, cashmere and silk with PFC-free water-repellent finishes. Read more on the Herno brand page, and see our full profile of who Herno is.

The quiet luxury colour palette

A 12-piece quiet luxury wardrobe built on Herno

Every piece below works with every other piece. Start with the coat, add the knits and trousers, then fill in.

1. Navy Blue Coat in Diagonal Wool Fabric

The foundation, at $3,110. Herno uses premium merino made with the double-construction technique: two layers of fabric woven together on the loom and joined by an extremely fine binding thread. The result is warm and enveloping without weight. The silhouette is sophisticated enough for formal and city looks. Navy goes over everything else on this list. It suits the man who wants one coat for the next ten winters.

2. Ecowool and Nylon Ultralight Coat in Dark Brown

The second coat, at $1,940. Two-tone worsted virgin wool twill, certified to the Responsible Wool Standard, with yarns processed in a zero-mile supply chain in Tuscany according to Herno. It is a rare coat that is both well made and properly traceable. Dark brown is the warmer alternative to navy. It suits men who care where their wool comes from, and a navy version is also available.

3. La Giacca Padded Blazer in Dark Brown

The modern piece in an old money wardrobe, at $1,720. A tailored blazer in recycled nylon microfibre with a waterproof matt finish and a removable windproof bib. It replaces the wool blazer on wet days and looks right with flannel trousers and a knit. It suits the man who wants tailoring without worrying about the forecast. Our full La Giacca guide covers the other colours.

4. Dark Blue Sweater in Cashmere

A pure cashmere crew neck with a fine, compact, silky plain-knit texture in a 12 gauge. That gauge is thin enough to sit under a blazer and a coat without bulk. At $1,440 it is the knit you will wear most. Dark blue is easier than black and smarter than grey. It suits every man on this list, and white and camel versions are also in stock.

5. Cashmere and Wool Fisherman’s Rib Sweater in Pearl Grey

The old money knit, at $1,610. A blend of 68% wool and 29% cashmere in English rib, which creates a spongy, warm volume and a soft hand. It is the weekend sweater, worn alone over a shirt collar. Pearl grey is lighter than a mid grey and flatters most complexions. It suits country weekends and cold offices, and a light blue version is also available.

6. Merino Wool Cardigan in Camel

The most affordable piece on this list at $940. Extrafine merino in a fine, compact plain knit with a 12 gauge, finished with a shirt collar and Herno’s metal logo on the back. The collar is the detail: it reads as a jacket over a T-shirt, and as a knit under a coat. Camel brings warmth to a navy and grey wardrobe. It suits men who find crew necks too formal.

7. Lightweight Wool and Cashmere Fabric Shirt in Ivory

A shirt in merino wool and cashmere, with a French collar and the Iconico logo on the back. Herno says the blend gives thermal protection, high breathability and dynamic comfort, which makes it a shirt you can wear in winter without a vest. At $1,080 it suits business looks and smart weekends. Ivory is softer than white and works better with camel and brown. Browse the rest of Herno’s men’s shirts.

8. Wool Jersey Polo Shirt in Chantilly

The long-sleeve wool polo is the old money staple that most men skip. This one is pure wool jersey from combed yarn, with a lustrous, clean look and a warm feel, a buttoned collar and buttoned cuffs. The embroidered logo is discreet. At $970 it sits under a blazer in place of a shirt and over trousers on its own. It suits men who want to dress smart without a tie, and navy is also stocked.

9. Cotton and Cashmere Canvas Trousers in Dark Taupe

Dyed cotton canvas with a touch of cashmere for a softer hand, cut with darts and a pressed crease for a tailored line, and signed with a metal Herno logo. At $990 they bridge chinos and wool trousers, so they work with every knit and jacket here. Dark taupe pairs with navy and camel. They suit men who wear chinos now and want an upgrade. Camel and milk white versions are also available.

10. Wool Twill Trousers in Iron

Pure twisted virgin wool twill blended with recycled wool yarns, soft in appearance and comfortable to wear. Herno adds an elasticated waist, darts, pressed creases and scoop pockets, so they look like tailored trousers and feel easier. At $970 they are the grey trousers this wardrobe needs. Iron is a mid grey that works with navy, cream and brown. They suit office days and travel. See all men’s trousers.

11. Taupe Maggiore Trainers in Suede

Made in Italy, with a calf suede upper, Strobel construction for natural flexibility and a layered phylon and rubber sole. They are technical underneath and plain on top, which is the quiet luxury trainer in one sentence. At $1,050 they suit men who want one pair of trainers that works with wool trousers. Herno trainers are sized EU 41 to 45, shown on Coveti as UK 7 to 11. Browse the sneakers.

12. Fisherman’s Rib Cashmere Scarf in Light Taupe

Fine pure cashmere in a half-fisherman’s rib stitch, which gives volume, softness and warmth, finished with a metal Herno logo. At $1,080 it is the finishing piece that ties a navy coat to a brown trouser. Light taupe is neutral enough to work with everything on this list. It is one size and suits anyone, and also makes a strong gift.

Three quiet luxury outfits for men

• Office: navy diagonal wool coat, ivory wool and cashmere shirt, dark blue cashmere crew neck, iron wool trousers, dark leather shoes.
• Weekend: dark brown La Giacca, pearl grey fisherman’s rib sweater, dark taupe cotton and cashmere trousers, taupe Maggiore trainers.
• Dinner: dark brown Ecowool coat, chantilly wool polo, iron trousers, light taupe cashmere scarf.

What should you avoid?

Large logos come first. A quiet luxury wardrobe allows a small mark, such as Herno’s metal plate, and nothing bigger. Avoid high-shine fabrics, bright colours in large areas, and anything designed to be noticed from across the street. Skip distressed denim and heavy hardware. Avoid buying the whole wardrobe at once in one colour; a palette of four colours used well looks more natural than head-to-toe beige.

Fit matters more than brand. A $3,000 coat that is a size too big looks cheaper than a well-fitted coat at half the price. Herno uses Italian sizes and Coveti lists the UK/US chest equivalent, which is the Italian size minus 10. Order your usual jacket size.

How does Herno compare with Brunello Cucinelli and Loro Piana?

All three are Italian and all three are quiet. Brunello Cucinelli, founded in Solomeo in 1978, is cashmere-led and generally priced above Herno. Loro Piana is known above all for its raw materials. Herno’s strength is outerwear: it is the specialist you go to for the coat, the padded blazer and the down jacket, and its knitwear and trousers are priced to build around them. A Herno coat over knitwear from any of the three is an easy combination.

Shop the full Herno collection at Coveti, including men’s coats and men’s knitwear. Every piece is 100% authentic, checked before dispatch, and ships worldwide by express courier from Coveti’s UAE and Australia hubs.

Read next: is Herno a good brand?, the best luxury winter coats for men and who is Herno.

Frequently asked questions

What is quiet luxury for men?

Quiet luxury for men is a way of dressing in high-quality clothes with little visible branding: neutral colours such as navy, grey and camel, fine fabrics such as cashmere and merino, and simple, well-fitted cuts.

What is the difference between quiet luxury and old money style?

Old money style borrows from traditional inherited wardrobes, such as navy blazers, cable knits and polo shirts. Quiet luxury is broader and includes modern pieces such as technical outerwear and trainers, as long as quality is high and branding is low.

Is Herno a quiet luxury brand?

Yes. Herno is an Italian outerwear house founded in 1948 on Lake Maggiore. Its branding is a small metal logo plate on the back, and it focuses on fabric quality, such as Nylon Ultralight, cashmere and RWS virgin wool.

What colours are quiet luxury?

The core quiet luxury colours are navy, grey, camel, dark brown, cream and light taupe. Most outfits use two to three of them at once.

How much does a quiet luxury wardrobe cost?

At Coveti, Herno knitwear costs $880 to $1,720, trousers $680 to $2,410 and coats $1,270 to $6,350. The 12 pieces in this guide total $16,900.

Where can I buy authentic Herno?

Coveti sells authentic Herno at full price, checked before dispatch, with worldwide express shipping from hubs in the UAE and Australia and duties calculated at checkout.