Black Tie Gowns: The Rules, the Fabrics and the Gowns Worth Buying

Black tie is the dress code most people over-think. For women it comes down to three things: length, fabric and finish. Here are the rules, and the black tie gowns we would buy at Coveti.

Length

Floor length. An ankle-length gown with a heel is acceptable, a midi is not. If you want to show your legs, choose a gown with a slit, such as the Avaro Figlio Sequin Kimono Maxi Dress with Slit.

Fabric

Choose cloth with weight and finish: cady, crepe, satin, Mikado, velvet, lace over a lining, sequins and crystal. Avoid thin jersey, cotton and linen. Cady, which most of the Avaro Figlio collection is cut in, is a dense, slightly ribbed cloth that holds tailoring, and it is a very Italian choice for evening.

Finish

Black tie is the moment for embellishment, but one statement is enough: crystal at the neckline, a sequinned shoulder, a sculpted bow. See how the Avaro Figlio Axis Gown concentrates silver sequins on one shoulder of a plain column.

The black tie gowns we would buy

Black

The Nocturne Off-Shoulder Crystal Mermaid Gown, $3,020; the Arabella Black Crystal Ruched Mermaid Gown, $2,610; and the Noir Atelier Structured Basquine Gown, $3,430.

Colour

The Amethyst Royal Purple Crystal Gown, the Forest Green Crystal Mermaid Maxi Dress and the midnight blue Velvet Opulence Mermaid Maxi Dress.

Black and white

The Eclipse V-Neck Gown with Train and the Midnight Bow Mikado Gown. More in our edit of black and white gowns.

From earlier Avaro Figlio collections

The Off-Shoulder Lace Gown With Train, the Sequin Gown With Cape Sleeves and the One-Shoulder Draped Ball Gown.

Other houses

Elie Saab, Zuhair Murad, Oscar de la Renta, Safiyaa and David Koma all cut gowns that belong at black tie. Browse all evening gowns at Coveti.

By occasion

For a wedding, read black tie wedding guest dresses. For a charity evening, read gala dresses. For winter, read velvet evening gowns. For colour, read purple evening gowns and emerald green evening gowns.

Frequently asked questions

What is a black tie gown?

A floor-length evening gown in a formal fabric such as cady, crepe, satin, Mikado, velvet and lace, often with embellishment. It is what women wear to a black tie event.

Does a black tie gown have to be black?

No. Black tie refers to the dress code, not the colour. Jewel tones, metallics and black and white all work.

Can a black tie gown have a slit?

Yes. A thigh slit is common on black tie gowns and makes them easier to walk and dance in.

Is a midi dress acceptable for black tie?

Generally no. Black tie calls for floor length. A midi is right for black tie optional and cocktail.