Brunello Cucinelli Jewelry: Gemmae and Monili Explained

Brunello Cucinelli jewelry comes in two lines: Gemmae, in sterling silver and hematite, and Aurum, in 18k gold. Coveti stocks the Gemmae line, with chokers, a sterling silver tie necklace, wrap bracelets, earrings, ear cuffs and a chain, alongside the monili bead chains the house sews onto its clothes. Shop it in our designer jewellery edit.

What is Brunello Cucinelli Gemmae?

Gemmae is the name the brand’s own site gives to its sterling silver and hematite jewellery. The category covers chokers, wrap bracelets, earrings, ear cuffs, a sterling silver “tie” necklace and a trouser chain. The house also makes Aurum, its 18k gold jewellery line, which we do not stock.

The Gemmae pieces share the same idea as the clothes. They are made to sit close to the body, to catch light quietly and to be worn every day with knitwear and tailoring. Hematite, a dark metallic stone, gives some pieces a deeper, almost black sheen against the silver. If you are new to the house, our profile of who is Brunello Cucinelli explains where this restraint comes from.

What are Brunello Cucinelli monili?

Monili are the fine bead chains, made of precious, shiny metal beads, that Brunello Cucinelli sews along lapels, cuffs, straps, belt loops, buckles and the edges of shoes. They are not a separate jewellery line. They are part of the garment, and they are the most recognisable signature the house has, because a plain cardigan with a line of monili at the cuff is instantly Brunello Cucinelli without any logo.

That is why monili turn up across the accessories as well. You will find them on the Vachetta belt with monili in Brown, covered in our Brunello Cucinelli belts guide, on a Glasses cord with monili in Beige and on the Ribbed cardigan with monili in Light Brown. Many people buy their first Gemmae piece to wear with a monili garment, since the two speak the same language.

Gemmae at Coveti: what is in the range

Every Gemmae piece is One Size.

Brunello Cucinelli necklaces

The choker is the core Gemmae shape. The Sterling Silver choker in Silver sits at the base of the neck and looks right above a crewneck sweater, and the Sterling Silver wide choker in Silver is the bolder version for an open shirt collar. The Hematite and Sterling Silver choker in Black is darker and works best against ivory and milk knits, where the contrast shows.

The most unusual piece is the Sterling Silver tie in Lignite Grey, a necklace that falls in a long line down the front like a tie. It is my pick for anyone who already owns plenty of chokers. Wear it over a fine turtleneck from our designer knitwear edit and let it be the only jewellery. More necklaces sit in our designer necklaces edit.

Brunello Cucinelli bracelets

The wrap bracelet winds around the wrist more than once, so one piece reads like a stack. The Hematite and Sterling Silver wrap bracelet in Silver is the brightest of the three versions, and the wrap bracelet in Brown is warmer, which suits the brown and camel palette the house favours. For a single clean line, the Silver bracelet in Silver is the simplest piece in the edit. See them all in our designer bracelets edit.

Bracelets show most with knitwear when you push the sleeves up. A cardigan worn open over a silk top, with the sleeves pushed to the forearm, gives a wrap bracelet room.

Brunello Cucinelli earrings and ear cuffs

The earrings range from small to striking. The Sterling Silver cascade earrings in Silver are the most graphic pair, and they move as you turn your head. The Disc Shimmer Earrings in Silver are flatter and catch light across a wider surface. The Silver frayed earrings in Silver have a looser, textured finish that echoes the house’s dazzling knits.

For darker tones, the Hematite and Sterling Silver earrings in Black pair with the matching choker. And if you do not have pierced ears, an ear cuff is the answer: the Sterling Silver ear cuff in Silver slides onto the edge of the ear. Shop the full selection in our designer earrings edit.

The Sterling Silver chain

The Sterling Silver chain in Silver is 925 sterling silver and also comes in a Gold colourway. A chain like this is the most flexible piece of all: worn long, doubled around the neck, and also looped through the belt loops of a pair of trousers.

How to wear Gemmae with the clothes

• One focal point. Pick one of the neck, the ears and the wrist as the focus, and keep the other two quiet.
• Match the monili. If your cardigan carries silver monili, wear silver Gemmae. The two read as one look.
• Use hematite for contrast. Hematite pieces look strongest against pale knits and white shirts.
• Keep the palette soft. Grey, brown, milk and ivory give silver the room to show.

For an outfit built around jewellery, see our guide to Brunello Cucinelli cardigans and sweaters.

Storing and caring for sterling silver

Sterling silver darkens over time when it meets air and moisture. Take jewellery off before washing, swimming and applying perfume, and wipe it with a soft silver cloth. Store each piece on its own so chains do not tangle and surfaces do not scratch. The house makes leather boxes for exactly this: the Calfskin jewelry box with monili in Ivory and the Suede small jewelry box in Light Grey, both covered in our guide to Brunello Cucinelli wallets and card holders.

Gemmae is also one of the easiest gifts in the house, since every piece is One Size. Our Brunello Cucinelli gift guide has more ideas, and our guide on where to buy Brunello Cucinelli explains how to buy safely.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is Brunello Cucinelli Gemmae?

Gemmae is the name Brunello Cucinelli gives to its sterling silver and hematite jewellery line. It includes chokers, wrap bracelets, earrings, ear cuffs, a sterling silver tie necklace and a trouser chain.

What are Brunello Cucinelli monili?

Monili are the fine bead chains of precious, shiny metal beads that Brunello Cucinelli sews along lapels, cuffs, straps, belt loops, buckles and shoe edges.

Does Brunello Cucinelli make gold jewelry?

Yes. Aurum is the Brunello Cucinelli line in 18k gold. Coveti stocks the Gemmae line in sterling silver and hematite.

What is Brunello Cucinelli jewelry made of?

The Gemmae pieces we stock are made in 925 sterling silver, and some combine sterling silver with hematite.

What size is Brunello Cucinelli jewelry?

Every Gemmae piece we stock is One Size, including the necklaces, bracelets, earrings and ear cuffs.