Brunello Cucinelli Suits and Blazers: The Tailoring Guide

A Brunello Cucinelli suit is built around the Tailor blazer, a one-and-a-half-breasted jacket with a structured shoulder, wide lapels and a slightly longer line, cut in Italian cloths such as wool, silk and cashmere flannel. Coveti now stocks the Brunello Cucinelli men’s Winter Edit tailoring in men’s jackets and blazers, with matching trousers and a waistcoat.

What is Brunello Cucinelli tailoring known for?

Brunello Cucinelli built its name on cashmere, and its tailoring borrows the same softness. The jackets are meant to be worn with knitwear as often as with a shirt and tie, the cloths mix wool with silk, cashmere and cotton, and the colours stay in the house range of greys, sand and Panama. The result is tailoring that reads formal at a distance and relaxed up close. For the wider men’s line, see our Brunello Cucinelli menswear guide.

All the tailoring at Coveti comes from the brand’s Winter Edit, which pairs city tailoring with mountain textures; our Winter Edit guide covers the whole capsule. For context on how the house compares with other Italian names, our overview of Italian luxury brands is a good starting point.

What is a one-and-a-half-breasted blazer?

One-and-a-half-breasted is the brand’s own term for a closure that sits between single and double breasted. The front overlaps more than a single-breasted jacket but less than a full double-breasted one, which gives a stronger chest line without the formality of a double-breasted suit. On the Tailor blazer it comes with a structured shoulder, wide lapels and a slightly longer line than a standard jacket, so it suits a fuller trouser and a heavier knit underneath.

The Brunello Cucinelli tailoring at Coveti

The chalk stripe flannel suit

The Chalk stripe flannel Tailor blazer and the Chalk stripe flannel trousers are the closest thing in the edit to a classic suit. Chalk stripe is a soft, slightly blurred stripe that looks drawn with tailor’s chalk, wider and less sharp than a pinstripe, and on flannel it has a warm, matte surface. The cloth here is 89% wool, 6% silk and 5% cashmere. Wear the pair together with the Sea Island cotton shirt in white and the Flannel necktie in medium grey for meetings, then split them: the blazer over a cashmere turtleneck and denim, the trousers with a knit polo and suede Derbys. Our guide to chalk stripe suits goes deeper on the cloth and its history.

The Chevron Tailor blazer and waistcoat

The Chevron Tailor blazer in Panama uses the same one-and-a-half-breasted cut in a chevron weave of virgin wool and cotton. It has a matching One-and-a-half-breasted waistcoat, which you can wear as a two-piece with a contrasting trouser. The gabardine trousers in white and the ergonomic gabardine trousers in blue both work here, and the result is a lighter take on the three-piece that suits a long lunch better than a boardroom. The waistcoat also works alone over a shirt with the sleeves rolled, worn with corduroy at the weekend.

The silk tuxedo and evening tailoring

The One-and-a-half-breasted tuxedo jacket in sand is cut in 100% silk, and it pairs with the Double-pleated tuxedo trousers in the same silk. A pale dinner jacket follows the long tradition of ivory jackets for warm climates and summer evenings, but in sand silk it also works for winter parties where the dress code is festive instead of strict. Finish it with the Flannel bowtie in blue, a white dress shirt and dark shoes. If the invitation says black tie, our guide to the black tie dress code for men explains the classic version and its alternatives.

The nubuck blazer: tailoring in leather

The Nubuck blazer with peak lapels in brown takes the shape of a tailored jacket and makes it in soft nubuck leather. Peak lapels point upward toward the shoulder, which gives the jacket a confident, slightly formal outline even in leather. It is sized in letters, XXS to 5XL, and it is the jacket to wear with the jersey mock neck T-shirt, no-fade denim and the sand runners.

How do Brunello Cucinelli blazers and trousers fit?

Coveti shows the brand’s Italian tailoring sizes as UK/US chest sizes for jackets and waistcoats (UK equals IT minus 10) and as UK/US waist sizes for trousers (UK equals IT minus 16).

Because the Tailor blazer has a slightly longer line, check the back length against a jacket you already wear. The brand publishes no statement that its tailoring fits large, small and true to size, so measure your chest and waist and compare. Full tables, including letters and shoe sizes, are in the Brunello Cucinelli men’s size guide.

How do you build a Brunello Cucinelli suit from separates?

• Start with the matched pair. The chalk stripe flannel blazer and trousers give you a full suit and two strong separates.
• Add a contrast jacket. The Chevron Tailor blazer in Panama works with the grey chalk stripe trousers, a pale jacket over a dark trouser.
• Add a waistcoat. The Panama waistcoat turns either jacket into a three-piece look with gabardine trousers.
• Swap the shirt for knitwear. A cashmere turtleneck, polo and half zip each give the same suit a different level of formality.
• Keep shoes soft. Suede Derbys suit the whole set; mountain-style suede boots take the chalk stripe trousers into the country.

I think the chalk stripe trousers with the Chevron blazer is the best combination in the edit, because the grey and Panama pull out the warmth in each other. Every piece at Coveti is 100% authentic and ships worldwide, with returns explained on our returns page.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the Brunello Cucinelli Tailor blazer?

The Tailor blazer is Brunello Cucinelli’s one-and-a-half-breasted jacket, with a structured shoulder, wide lapels and a slightly longer line. At Coveti it comes in chalk stripe flannel in dark grey and in a Panama chevron.

What does one-and-a-half-breasted mean?

One-and-a-half-breasted is the brand’s term for a closure that sits between single and double breasted, with more overlap than a single-breasted jacket and less than a full double-breasted one.

Does Brunello Cucinelli sell matching suit trousers?

Yes. The chalk stripe flannel Tailor blazer has matching chalk stripe flannel trousers in the same wool, silk and cashmere cloth, and the silk tuxedo jacket has matching double-pleated tuxedo trousers.

What size Brunello Cucinelli blazer should I buy?

Coveti shows Brunello Cucinelli blazer sizes as UK/US chest sizes, where UK equals the Italian size minus 10. An IT 50 blazer is a 40 chest and an IT 52 is a 42 chest.

Is the Brunello Cucinelli tuxedo jacket suitable for black tie?

The tuxedo jacket is cut in sand silk with matching double-pleated trousers. It follows the tradition of pale dinner jackets for summer evenings and warm climates, and it suits festive evening dress codes in winter.