To wear polka dots without looking costumed, choose one dotted piece, keep its colours to two, and pair it with plain, clean shapes in a colour taken from the print. Small dots read as a near solid and go almost anywhere; larger dots are a statement and want simple shoes and very little jewellery. A matching dot set worn head to toe also works, as long as everything else in the outfit is plain.

To wear gingham so it looks current, let one gingham piece lead and keep everything around it plain, ideally in a solid colour pulled from the check itself. A small check reads neat and polished, while a large check reads relaxed and summery. A matching gingham set is the simplest outfit of all, because the print does the styling and you only need to choose the shoe.

Balloon pants look best when the top is closer fitting and the shoe is slim, so the volume in the leg reads as intentional rather than oversized. Let the gathered hem sit at the ankle bone, choose a fitted tank, a cami, a bodysuit and a tucked in shirt on top, and finish with a ballet flat, a slim sandal and a pointed mule. One volume per outfit is the rule that makes them work at any height.

To wear a kaftan dress, let the loose shape do the work and add structure in just one place: a belt at the waist, a defined sandal, a small bag held close. Over swimwear a kaftan is a beach cover up; with seamless underwear, gold earrings and a heeled sandal it becomes a resort dinner dress. Keep everything underneath close to the body so the kaftan stays the one relaxed element in the outfit.

To wear a halter top, balance the bare shoulders with a bottom that has a clear waist: a mini skirt, tailored trousers, a midi skirt and high waisted shorts all work. Pick your bra by the back of the top, not the front, because the cut of the back decides between a halter bra, a strapless bra and stick on cups. Wear your hair up to show the neckline, and add a cropped cardigan when the evening cools.

To style capri pants, balance the shorter leg with the right top and shoe: pair slim capris with a looser top and wide capris with a fitted one, and choose shoes that leave the ankle visible, such as pointed flats, slingbacks, heeled mules and minimal sandals. Tuck the top in, at least at the front, so the high waist shows and the leg looks longer. Keep the colours close from waist to shoe for the longest line.

To style a white sundress, keep the dress the brightest thing in the outfit and build around it with warm, natural tones: tan leather sandals, a straw hat, a woven bag, gold jewellery. Wear seamless underwear in your skin tone, never white, and choose a lined dress so it stays opaque in sunlight. For evening, swap flats for a heeled sandal and add a knit cardigan over the shoulders.

To style a strapless top, start with what keeps it up: a top in your true size with a grippy, elasticated edge, plus a strapless bra with a silicone band if you need support. Then balance the bare shoulders with more coverage below, such as high waisted wide trousers, a midi skirt and matching shorts, and add a single layer, like a cardigan, a cropped jacket, an open shirt, when the temperature drops. Keep the neckline clear and put jewellery at the ears and collarbone.

To style a crochet top, balance its open, textured stitch with smooth, simple pieces: a plain layer underneath, then clean trousers, a silk skirt, tailored shorts and denim. Decide first how much skin you want to show, because what you wear under the crochet sets the tone of the whole outfit. Over a bikini it is a beach look; over a fitted cami with a midi skirt it is a dinner look.

The two most useful ways to style a cardigan are buttoned up and worn as a top, and worn open over a smooth base like a tank, a slip dress and a baby tee. Pair it with clean, modern bottoms such as a midi skirt, wide trousers and tailored shorts, and the cardigan looks deliberate rather than frumpy. Fit does most of the work: a cropped, close cardigan suits high waisted bottoms, while a longer, relaxed one suits slimmer shapes.