Men’s Down Jacket Buying Guide: Fill, Shell, Baffles and Fit

To choose a men’s down jacket, check five things: the down to feather ratio, the shell fabric, how the down is held in place, the length and features, and the fit. Italian outerwear house Herno shows why each matters: its lightest jackets use 90/10 down inside 20-denier Japanese nylon, which is why they feel warm without bulk.

Quick answer

• Fill: look for a high down share. 90/10 means 90% down clusters to 10% feather.
• Fill power: measures loft. A higher number means more warmth for the same weight of down.
• Shell: a lower denier means a finer, lighter fabric. Membranes add rain protection.
• Construction: quilting keeps the down evenly spread. Narrow channels look sleek, deep baffles add warmth.
• Fit: it should close over a shirt and a knit without pulling. Order your usual jacket size.
• Price: Herno jackets on Coveti cost $1,080 to $6,020. The six picks below run from $1,720 to $4,380.

What is a down jacket?

A down jacket is insulated with the soft under-plumage of ducks and geese. Down is not a feather: it is a fluffy cluster with no hard quill, and those clusters trap still air. Still air is what keeps you warm. The more air a jacket holds for its weight, the warmer and lighter it feels.

Herno has made outerwear in Lesa, on Lake Maggiore, since 1948, and from the 1980s it built its reputation on parkas and down jackets in very light nylon with natural down. That is a useful benchmark when you compare jackets.

Down versus feather: what does 90/10 mean?

Most down jackets are filled with a blend of down clusters and small feathers. The label gives the ratio. A 90/10 fill is 90% down and 10% feather. An 80/20 fill has more feather, which is heavier and gives less loft.

Feathers are not bad: they add a little structure and cost less. But the higher the down share, the lighter and warmer the jacket. Herno uses 90/10 injected down in its Nylon Ultralight pieces, a high down share chosen for an even lighter feel.

What is fill power and does it matter?

Fill power measures how much space one ounce of down fills when it lofts, expressed in cubic inches. A higher number means bigger clusters that trap more air, so you need less down for the same warmth. That gives a lighter, more compressible jacket.

Fill power is a useful figure, but it is only part of the story. The amount of down in the jacket, the shell and the construction matter as much. The Herno product copy we carry states the down to feather ratio rather than a fill power figure, so judge those pieces by the ratio, the shell and the use Herno designs them for.

Goose down versus duck down

Both are natural down and both work. Goose down clusters are often larger, which is why goose is common in premium jackets. Several Herno jackets in this guide name goose down padding in their product copy, including the Absolute Black Nylon Jacket and the 2-layer Gore-Tex short parkas. In practice, ratio and construction tell you more than the bird.

Down versus synthetic insulation

Synthetic wadding is made from polyester fibres. It keeps more of its warmth when wet and dries faster, which is why it appears in rain-focused coats. Down is warmer for its weight and lasts longer when cared for. Herno uses both: down in its classic puffers, and padding with wadding on some wool and technical coats. Pick down for cold, dry days and travel. Pick a membrane coat with wadding for persistent rain.

What should the shell be made of?

The shell protects the down and decides how the jacket looks. Three things matter.

• Denier: the weight of the yarn. Herno’s Nylon Ultralight uses 20-denier Japanese nylon, very fine and silk-like. Its Gore-Tex parkas use a 30-denier stretch nylon.
• Finish: a coating on the reverse, as on Herno’s La Giacca, gives a matt finish that resists water. Many Herno pieces use PFC-free water-repellent treatments.
• Membrane: a bonded membrane turns a water-resistant jacket into a rain jacket. Herno’s 2-layer Windstopper styles have a water column of 20,000 mm.

Water column measures how much water pressure a fabric withstands before it leaks, in millimetres. The higher the number, the better it resists heavy rain.

Baffles and quilting: how is the down held in place?

Down must be kept in compartments, otherwise it sinks to the hem. Most jackets use sewn-through quilting, where the outer and inner fabrics are stitched together in lines. It is light and sleek, and the stitch lines are slightly cooler. Box baffles use internal walls between the two layers so the down can loft fully. They are warmer and bulkier.

Narrow channels suit city jackets that sit under a coat and over tailoring. Deep channels suit serious cold. Herno’s striped quilting, used on pieces such as the Absolute Black Nylon Jacket, keeps a clean line.

Down jacket checklist

The best down jackets for men, by use

These six come from the Herno men’s collection on Coveti, each chosen to show one of the points above.

1. La Giacca Hooded Down Jacket in Blue

The all-rounder, at $1,970. La Giacca is Herno’s legendary classic, made from recycled nylon microfibre with a light coating on the reverse for a soft feel and a waterproof matt finish. The hood adds warmth at the neck. Blue is a softer alternative to navy. Choose it if you want one down jacket for everyday city wear.

2. Absolute Black Nylon Jacket in Black

A clear example of goose down with striped quilting, at $1,720. The glossy nylon has a full, soft feel and a WR water-repellent treatment, with a high collar, drawstring hood and zipped side pockets. The cut brings a tailored line to casual dress. It suits men who want a smart, dark puffer for evenings.

3. Black Espresso Bomber Jacket in Nylon Chamonix

For wind and cold, at $1,720. Nylon Chamonix is Herno’s high-performance technical nylon, here with down padding and Polartec technology, under the HERNO POLAR-TECH label: water-repellent, light and thermal. The bomber shape stays close at the waist and cuffs to hold warmth in. Stock is limited to sizes 40 and 44.

4. Black Short Parka in 2-Layer Gore-Tex

The answer for wet cold, at $2,190. A 2-layer Gore-Tex shell in lightweight stretch nylon with a 30-denier weave covers a removable puffer with goose down padding and a hood. Wear the parts separately in autumn and together in winter. Choose it if you live somewhere it rains all season.

5. Blue Jacket in New Impact

A longer, weatherproof option at $2,000. The 4-way stretch matt fabric is bonded to a stretchy membrane and fully heat-sealed, making it waterproof, windproof and breathable. Inside is feather padding with striped quilting, plus a high neck with hood. It shows how a membrane changes a padded jacket into a rain jacket.

6. Dark Brown Jacket in Cashmere, Silk and Monogram

The luxury end, at $4,380. A cashmere and silk shell with an eco-friendly, PFC-free water-repellent finish covers soft down padding, with fine monogram jacquard details. It shows that a down jacket can read as tailored outerwear. Dark brown looks rich with cream knits and grey flannel. Choose it for dressing up in cold weather.

How should a down jacket fit?

Try it over the thickest layer you will usually wear. It should close without pulling across the chest, and you should be able to cross your arms without the back seam straining. Sleeves should reach the wrist bone with arms bent. The hem should cover your belt at least.

Herno publishes a fit type for each product, most often regular fit, with some slim, relaxed, boxy and oversize styles. Herno does not publish a blanket statement that it runs small, so order your usual jacket size, and go up one only if you plan to wear a thick knit under a slim-fit piece. Coveti lists Herno in UK and US chest sizes, which are the Italian size minus 10: IT 48 is a 38, IT 52 is a 42. Our Herno size guide has the full chart.

Down jackets around the world

• UK: rain is the bigger problem than cold. Choose a coated shell, a Gore-Tex parka with a removable puffer and a membrane jacket over pure down. UK chest size is the Italian size minus 10.
• US: pick by city. A light jacket works in California, while the Northeast and Midwest need Polartec, a layered parka and a long coat. US chest sizes match the UK numbers.
• Europe: Italian sizes read directly. Northern cities reward layering, southern ones a light jacket over tailoring.
• Japan: Herno has had stores in Osaka and Tokyo since 1968. Compact, precise down suits long commutes. Compare your measurements with the IT size.
• Middle East and Australia: buy for travel and ski trips, with packability in mind. Coveti ships from hubs in the UAE and Australia.

How do you care for a down jacket?

Read the care label first. Hang it on a broad hanger, never store it compressed, and let it air after wearing. Spot clean small marks. For a full clean, follow our step-by-step guide on how to wash a down jacket. If you are choosing between brands, our Herno vs Moncler comparison sets out the differences.

Where to buy a down jacket

Every piece at Coveti is 100% authentic and checked before dispatch. Coveti ships worldwide by express from hubs in the UAE and Australia, with duties calculated at checkout. Returns are on our returns page. Browse men’s jackets, men’s coats and the full Herno brand page.

Read next: luxury puffer jackets for men, lightweight packable down jackets and Herno down jackets for men.

Frequently asked questions

What does 90/10 down mean?

90/10 down means the fill is 90% down clusters and 10% feathers by weight. A higher down share gives more warmth for less weight. Herno uses 90/10 injected down in its Nylon Ultralight pieces.

What is a good fill power for a down jacket?

Fill power measures loft per ounce of down. A higher figure means more warmth for the same weight. It is one factor among several: the amount of down, the shell and the construction matter as much.

Is goose down better than duck down?

Goose down clusters are often larger, which is why goose is common in premium jackets. The down to feather ratio and the construction usually tell you more about warmth than the bird.

Are down jackets waterproof?

Most down jackets are water-resistant, not waterproof. For rain, choose a jacket with a membrane, such as Herno’s 2-layer Gore-Tex parkas with removable puffers.

How should a men’s down jacket fit?

It should close over a shirt and a knit without pulling across the back, with sleeves to the wrist bone. Order your usual jacket size, and size up one only for a thick knit under a slim fit.