Buying Guide, Style Guides

Maison Margiela Dresses: The Slip, the Gown and the Shirt Dress

Buying Guide, Style Guides

Maison Margiela Dresses: The Slip, the Gown and the Shirt Dress

Maison Margiela dresses fall into three families: the slip dress, the long evening gown and the shirt dress. Each one carries a house idea, whether it is tape stitched on the outside, a bias cut that moves with the body, two garments joined into one. Coveti has more than 40 styles in the Maison Margiela collection, from mini dresses to evening gowns.

Quick answer

  • The slip dress: the house classic, often taped and bias cut.
  • The gown: hammered satin and bias-cut silk for evening.
  • The shirt dress: cotton, wool and denim, with Margiela tailoring details.
  • Sizes: Italian 36 to 48 on most dresses; IT 42 is UK 10.

The slip dress

Margiela has been making slip dresses since the 1990s, often with the construction on show. The Taped Slip Dress in Black has tape stitched along the seams on the outside, and the shorter Taped Slip Dress in Light Blue does the same in pale blue. For a plain version, the Silk Slip Mini Dress in Black is silk with no decoration. The Silk Lace Slip Midi Dress in Blush adds lace at the neckline in a soft blush. Slip dresses follow the body, so measure your hips before choosing the size.

The evening gown

For black tie, the Hammered Satin Gown in Black has a hammered texture that catches light, and the Bias-Cut Evening Gown in Black is cut on the bias so it skims the body to the floor. The Silk Satin Maxi Dress in Black is a simpler long column. The Sequined Maxi Dress in Mist is covered in sequins that fade from silver into blue. Wear them with flat sandals and one piece of jewellery; Margiela evening is never fussy.

The Fusion and the draped maxi

The most collectable dresses this season use the house techniques. The Slashed Velvet Floral Maxi Dress in Bordeaux is made with Fusion, where panels of aged tapestry and cut velvet are joined so the lines between them blur. The Cowl-Neck Crinkled Maxi Dress in White is finished in Bianchetto, hand-painted white and fixed with heat. The Satin Draped Maxi Dress in Black is softer, with drape at the front. See all maxi dresses.

The shirt dress

For the day, the shirt dress is the most useful Margiela dress. The V-Neck Shirt Dress in White is crisp white cotton, the Virgin Wool Midi Shirt Dress in Black is virgin wool for winter and the Denim Midi Shirt Dress in Blue Jeans is denim. The Draped Shirt Dress in Black adds drape through the body. All of them work with flat boots and a long coat.

Knit and leather

The Wool Cashmere Knit Midi Dress in Camel is a wool and cashmere knit dress in camel, ideal under a coat. The Leather Midi Dress in Black is the strongest piece in the edit: black leather to mid calf. The Foil Knit Midi Dress in Silver is a foil-coated knit in silver.

How to style a Margiela dress

  • Layer a slip dress over a fine knit and add knee boots for winter.
  • Wear a shirt dress open over wide trousers.
  • Add a long wool coat to anything; Margiela coats are cut for it.

Maison Margiela sizes its ready-to-wear in Italian sizes, which run four above UK, so an IT 42 is a UK 10. Knitwear comes in letter sizes and jeans in waist sizes. The full conversion is in our Maison Margiela size guide.

Maison Margiela at a glance

Founded 1988, Paris, by Martin Margiela and Jenny Meirens
Creative director Glenn Martens, since January 2025 (after Martin Margiela to 2009 and John Galliano, 2014 to 2024)
Owner OTB, the Italian group founded by Renzo Rosso, majority owner since 2002
Signatures The four white stitches, the blank numbered label, the Tabi split toe, deconstruction, Artisanal remade garments
Lines Artisanal (couture), the main collection, and MM6 Maison Margiela, launched in 1997
Made in Most ready-to-wear is made in Italy; a few pieces are made in France
Sizes at Coveti Italian sizes IT 36 to 50 (UK 4 to 18), letter sizes XS to XXL for knitwear, waist sizes for jeans

Frequently asked questions

What is the most famous Maison Margiela dress?

The slip dress is the house classic, often shown with taping and raw edges on the outside. This season's Taped Slip Dress continues it.

Are Maison Margiela dresses true to size?

Yes. Take your usual Italian size. Slip dresses and bias-cut gowns follow the body, so check your hip measurement.

What is a Fusion dress?

Fusion is a Margiela technique that joins separate garments and fabrics into one new piece. The Slashed Velvet Floral Maxi Dress is an example.

Where are Maison Margiela dresses made?

Most are made in Italy, according to their labels.

What shoes go with a Margiela slip dress?

Tabi boots are the house answer. Flat sandals and knee boots also work.

Read next: Margiela coats and jackets, the Margiela size guide, the Autumn Winter 2026 edit.