This season's Maison Margiela is the clearest picture yet of the house under Glenn Martens: strong coats, exact tailoring, treated denim and quiet black and white, with a few pieces built from the house's oldest techniques. These are my picks from the Maison Margiela collection at Coveti.
Quick answer
- The coat: Collarless Virgin Wool Coat in Navy Blue.
- The jacket: Virgin Wool Tuxedo Blazer in Black.
- The dress: Taped Slip Dress in Black.
- The jeans: Bleached Spliced Jeans in Light Indigo.
- The knit: Elbow Patch Cardigan in Grey.
The 12 pieces to buy
1. Collarless Virgin Wool Coat in Navy Blue
No collar, raw seams, navy virgin wool. It is the season in one coat.
2. Virgin Wool Double-Breasted Coat in Black
The classic double-breasted coat, made in Italy. Buy it once.
3. Folded Collar Cotton Trench Coat in Military Green
A trench with the collar folded back on itself, in military green.
4. Virgin Wool Tuxedo Blazer in Black
A clean tuxedo jacket. Wear it with jeans as often as with its trousers.
5. Satin-Waist Virgin Wool Tuxedo Trousers in Black
Satin side bands and a satin waist. The smart trouser of the season.
6. Taped Slip Dress in Black
The house slip dress with tape on the outside.
7. Bias-Cut Evening Gown in Black
Bias cut to the floor for evening.
8. Slashed Velvet Floral Maxi Dress in Bordeaux
Fusion at its best: tapestry and velvet joined into one.
9. Bleached Spliced Jeans in Light Indigo
Bleached panels spliced across the leg.
10. Elbow Patch Cardigan in Grey
Suede elbow patches and decortique details.
11. Washed Silk Satin Midi Skirt in Black
Washed silk satin to mid calf. Wear it with a knit and boots.
12. Numeric Cotton Jersey T-Shirt in Black
The numbers from the label printed across the chest.
The mood
The palette is mostly black, white, ecru and washed blue, with bordeaux, olive and a soft pink beige. Fabrics look worn in: crinkled satin, bleached denim, painted wool. The tailoring has a strong shoulder and a long line. It is a wardrobe, not a costume.
How to wear it
- A long coat over a T-shirt and wide jeans.
- A slip dress over a fine knit, with knee boots.
- The tuxedo jacket over a white shirt and a silk skirt.
Maison Margiela sizes its ready-to-wear in Italian sizes, which run four above UK, so an IT 42 is a UK 10. Knitwear comes in letter sizes and jeans in waist sizes. The full conversion is in our Maison Margiela size guide.
Maison Margiela at a glance
| Founded | 1988, Paris, by Martin Margiela and Jenny Meirens |
| Creative director | Glenn Martens, since January 2025 (after Martin Margiela to 2009 and John Galliano, 2014 to 2024) |
| Owner | OTB, the Italian group founded by Renzo Rosso, majority owner since 2002 |
| Signatures | The four white stitches, the blank numbered label, the Tabi split toe, deconstruction, Artisanal remade garments |
| Lines | Artisanal (couture), the main collection, and MM6 Maison Margiela, launched in 1997 |
| Made in | Most ready-to-wear is made in Italy; a few pieces are made in France |
| Sizes at Coveti | Italian sizes IT 36 to 50 (UK 4 to 18), letter sizes XS to XXL for knitwear, waist sizes for jeans |
Frequently asked questions
What are the key pieces in Maison Margiela Autumn Winter 2026?
Long wool coats, the tuxedo blazer and trousers, taped slip dresses, bleached and spliced jeans and elbow-patch knits.
Who designed Maison Margiela Autumn Winter 2026?
Glenn Martens, creative director since January 2025.
What colours are in the collection?
Mostly black, white, ecru and washed blue, with bordeaux, olive and pink beige.
Where can I buy Maison Margiela Autumn Winter 2026?
Coveti stocks the women's ready-to-wear and ships worldwide. Every piece is 100% authentic.
Is Maison Margiela true to size this season?
Yes. Take your usual Italian size; oversized pieces are cut that way on purpose.
Read next: Glenn Martens at Margiela, Margiela coats and jackets, Margiela dresses.
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