Maison Margiela Coats and Jackets: The Editor’s Guide
Maison Margiela Coats and Jackets: The Editor’s Guide
If you buy one piece of Maison Margiela, make it a coat. The house began with tailoring taken apart and rebuilt, and its outerwear is still where that thinking is clearest: raw seams, collars folded the wrong way, linings on show and proportions a size bigger than expected. Coveti stocks more than 40 coats and jackets in the Maison Margiela collection.
Quick answer
- Best long coat: the Virgin Wool Long Coat.
- Best trench: the Folded Collar Cotton Trench Coat.
- Best blazer: the Virgin Wool Tuxedo Blazer.
- Best leather: the Folded Collar Leather Jacket.
- Fit: cut with room for a knit. Take your usual Italian size.
Wool coats
The Collarless Virgin Wool Coat in Navy Blue is the most Margiela coat of the season: no collar, a plunging line and seams left raw on purpose. The Wool Coat in Black is oversized in tweed. For a classic, the Virgin Wool Double-Breasted Coat in Black is double-breasted virgin wool and the Cashmere Coat in Dark Blue is cashmere in dark blue. See all wool coats.
Trench coats
Margiela has reworked the trench many times. The Folded Collar Cotton Trench Coat in Military Green folds its collar back on itself, the Creased Silk Trench Coat in Pink Beige is creased silk that looks lived in, and the Peached Trench Coat in Black has a soft peached finish. Browse trench coats.
Blazers and tailoring
The Virgin Wool Tuxedo Blazer in Black is sharp enough for evening. The Bianchetto Double-Breasted Wool Blazer in Pink Beige is hand-painted in Bianchetto, so the white wears away where you move. The Mohair Wool Blazer in Grey has a hand-applied Greasy Patina finish that looks waxed and worn. The Fusion Velvet Structured Blazer in Purple is purple velvet using Fusion. See all blazers.
Leather, denim and bombers
The Leather Jacket in Black and the Folded Collar Leather Jacket in Black are the leather choices. In denim, the collarless jackets such as the Collarless Denim Jacket in Blue use decortique detailing, stripping the jacket back to its frame. The Satin Bomber Jacket in Bordeaux is a silk and cotton racing jacket with ecru stripes. For cold days, the Shearling Caban in Camel is shearling and the Puffer Jacket in Black is a cropped puffer.
How Margiela outerwear fits
Most coats are cut with room for a knit underneath, and some are oversized by design, with dropped shoulders and long sleeves. Take your usual Italian size. If you sit between sizes and want a closer line, choose the smaller. Maison Margiela sizes its ready-to-wear in Italian sizes, which run four above UK, so an IT 42 is a UK 10. Knitwear comes in letter sizes and jeans in waist sizes. The full conversion is in our Maison Margiela size guide.
How to wear it
- A long wool coat over jeans and a T-shirt is the easiest Margiela outfit.
- Wear a blazer with its matching trousers, then break it up with denim.
- Push the sleeves of an oversized coat up so the lining shows.
Maison Margiela at a glance
| Founded | 1988, Paris, by Martin Margiela and Jenny Meirens |
| Creative director | Glenn Martens, since January 2025 (after Martin Margiela to 2009 and John Galliano, 2014 to 2024) |
| Owner | OTB, the Italian group founded by Renzo Rosso, majority owner since 2002 |
| Signatures | The four white stitches, the blank numbered label, the Tabi split toe, deconstruction, Artisanal remade garments |
| Lines | Artisanal (couture), the main collection, and MM6 Maison Margiela, launched in 1997 |
| Made in | Most ready-to-wear is made in Italy; a few pieces are made in France |
| Sizes at Coveti | Italian sizes IT 36 to 50 (UK 4 to 18), letter sizes XS to XXL for knitwear, waist sizes for jeans |
Frequently asked questions
Are Maison Margiela coats worth it?
Yes, if you want a coat that lasts. They are mostly made in Italy in wool, cashmere and leather, and the cuts stay in the house for years.
Do Maison Margiela coats run big?
They are cut with room for layers, and some are oversized on purpose. Take your usual Italian size.
What is a Bianchetto blazer?
Bianchetto is a Margiela technique where the garment is hand-painted with white paint and fixed with heat. The paint wears off where you move.
What is decortique?
Decortique is a Margiela technique that strips a garment back to its structure, showing how it is built.
Where are Maison Margiela coats made?
Most are labelled Made in Italy.
Read next: Margiela techniques, the size guide, Margiela knitwear.
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