Navigator vs Aviator Sunglasses: The Difference Explained

Navigator and aviator sunglasses are close cousins in thin metal, and the difference sits in the top line of the lens. An aviator has a teardrop lens that dips low toward the cheek, while a navigator flattens that top edge into a straighter brow bar with a squarer lens, so it reads sharper and more graphic on the face. For a navigator with a softer, feminine finish, start with Zimmermann and then browse the wider edit of designer sunglasses for women.

Our worked example is the new Zimmermann Ellis Navigator in gradient red, a light metal frame with column shaped temples and lenses that fade softly toward the base. It is the kind of frame that finishes a pale outfit, which is why it turns up again in our guide to what to wear with white pants.

Key facts

• An aviator has a teardrop lens; a navigator has a flatter, squarer top line and a straighter brow bar.
• Sunglass lenses are graded in five categories, 0 to 4, from almost clear to very dark.
• Category 1 lenses suit bright cities and overcast days; category 2 lenses suit a typical summer day.
• The Zimmermann Ellis Navigator measures 60mm lens width, 14mm nose bridge and 140mm temple length.
• Gradient Red Ellis lenses are category 1, Gradient Olive Ellis lenses are category 2, and both are made in Italy.
• Choose a frame whose top line sits at, never above, your brow line.

What is the difference between navigator and aviator sunglasses?

The short answer is shape: aviators curve, navigators square up. Both come from the same family of thin metal frames with a wide lens and a bridge across the nose, but they draw a different line across your face.

A classic aviator lens is a teardrop. The top edge follows the brow in a gentle curve, then the lens deepens toward the outer cheek and narrows toward the nose. That drop gives the frame its relaxed, slightly retro mood, and it is why aviators tend to sit lower on the face.

A navigator keeps the generous lens but straightens the top. The brow line runs flatter, the outer corners square off, and the lens bottom is less dramatic. On the face this reads crisper and more architectural, closer to a soft square than a drop. The Ellis Navigator follows this line, with a light metal frame and column shaped temples that add a little weight to the sides without adding bulk.

What face shape is most flattering for aviator sunglasses?

Aviators flatter square, heart and oval faces most, because the curved teardrop softens a strong jaw and balances a wider forehead.

• Square faces: the rounded drop of an aviator offsets an angular jaw. Navigators can work too if the corners are softened, but a very square navigator will repeat your bone structure.
• Heart faces: aviators are wider at the top and taper down, which mirrors a heart shape and keeps attention on the eyes. A navigator with a slimmer brow bar is the alternative.
• Round faces: this is where the navigator wins. Its straighter top line and squarer corners add structure, so the face looks longer and more defined.
• Oval faces: almost any proportion works. Choose by mood and by how much coverage you want.
• Long faces: look for a deeper lens to break up length. A teardrop aviator often does this better than a shallow navigator.

Our guide to sunglasses for your face shape goes through each shape in more detail, including round and oval frames such as the Mirel Round and the Goldie Oval.

Who can pull off aviator glasses?

Almost anyone can wear aviators once the lens size matches the width of the face.

The common mistake is scale. A frame that is too wide drops past the cheekbone and looks borrowed; one that is too narrow makes the face look broader. Check three things in the mirror: the outer edge of the frame should sit roughly in line with the widest part of your face, the top of the frame should sit at your brow line, and the lens should finish around the top of the cheekbone. If you have a smaller face, look for a lens width in the low 50s in millimetres. If you have a wider face, a 60mm lens like the Ellis gives you coverage without looking oversized.

How do you choose the right lens category?

Pick the category by the light you will be in, since the category tells you how much light the lens lets through.

Sunglass lenses are graded in five categories under the international sunglasses standard. Each one tells you roughly how much visible light reaches your eyes.

This matters for the Ellis. The Gradient Red Ellis Navigator has category 1 lenses, so it is a city frame, lovely for lunch outdoors, a grey afternoon in town and the softer light of autumn. The Gradient Olive Ellis Navigator has category 2 lenses, a better choice for a full summer day. Neither is a beach lens for midday glare, and that is worth knowing before you pack.

How do metal frames fit, and how should they sit?

A metal frame should sit level, rest lightly on the nose and stay put when you look down.

Thin metal is lighter than thick acetate, which makes navigators and aviators comfortable for long days, but it also means fit is about small adjustments. Use the measurements printed on the product page as your guide. The Ellis reads 60mm across each lens, 14mm across the nose bridge and 140mm along the temple. A 14mm bridge suits a medium nose; if you have a narrow, low bridge, any metal frame may slide, so an optician can adjust the temple tips for grip. A 140mm temple is a standard length that sits comfortably behind most ears.

Look after the frame and it will keep its shape. Clean the lenses with a lens cloth and an eyewear cleaner, and set the frames down lens side up so they do not scratch. Each Ellis arrives with the Zimmermann case, dust bag and storage box, so there is always somewhere safe to keep them.

How do you wear aviator and navigator glasses?

Treat the frame as the sharpest line in the outfit and keep the rest soft.

Metal frames carry a hint of utility, so they look most current with feminine fabrics: silk, organza, lace and washed denim. A few combinations we keep coming back to at Coveti:

• City break: the Ellis with a denim dress such as the Echo Denim Applique Mini Dress and a flat sandal. See our guide on how to wear a denim dress.
• Long lunch: a sheer shirt like the Clash Organza Shirt in lemon, the Clash Drill Capri Pant in milk and gold earrings. The red gradient warms the whole look.
• Weekend: a relaxed shirt, cropped jeans and an aviator pushed up into the hair when you step inside.
• Evening outdoors: a category 1 lens is light enough for a terrace at sunset, worn with a silk midi and a small clutch.

Match metals where you can. Gold toned frames sit beautifully with gold jewellery; if the frame has a coloured finish, let one piece of jewellery pick up the tone. Our Zimmermann sunglasses guide covers the full house range, from the Ellis Cateye to the Ellis Hexagon.

What are the differences between men’s and women’s aviators?

The difference is mostly scale and finish, since the shape is shared.

Frames marketed to women often have a slightly narrower bridge, a shorter temple and lighter wire, with softer colour work in the lenses such as gradients, rose and olive tints. Frames marketed to men tend to be wider, with darker solid lenses. In practice, the measurements matter more than the label, so compare lens width, bridge and temple length against a pair you already like.

Who should not wear polarised sunglasses?

Polarised lenses are not ideal when you need to read digital screens clearly, because they can make some displays look dark.

Pilots, skiers who need to read icy patches, and anyone who checks a phone, car dashboard and cash machine screen often may prefer a non polarised lens. The Ellis product page lists lens categories and gradients but does not list polarisation, so judge it as a fashion frame for town light, which is exactly what it does best.

Which navigator should you buy?

Choose the lens for your light first, then the colour for your wardrobe.

If most of your sunglasses wear is in town, across autumn and in softer climates, the red gradient category 1 Ellis is the one. If you want a single pair for summer holidays and long bright days, the olive gradient category 2 is the stronger lens. Browse the full Zimmermann edit at Coveti, and pair your frames with pieces from our Zimmermann Resort 2027 edit.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between navigator and aviator sunglasses?

An aviator has a teardrop lens that curves down toward the cheek. A navigator keeps the large metal frame but flattens the top line into a straighter brow bar with a squarer lens, so it looks sharper on the face.

What face shape is most flattering for aviator sunglasses?

Aviators flatter square, heart and oval faces most, because the curved teardrop softens a strong jaw and balances a wider forehead. Round faces usually look better in a navigator, whose straighter lines add structure.

Who can pull off aviator glasses?

Almost anyone can, as long as the frame width matches the widest part of the face and the top of the frame sits at the brow line. Scale matters more than face shape.

How do you wear aviator glasses?

Let the metal frame be the sharpest line in the outfit and keep the clothes soft, with silk, organza, lace and washed denim. Match the frame metal to your jewellery for a finished look.

Who should not wear polarised sunglasses?

Anyone who needs to read digital screens clearly, such as pilots and people checking a phone and dashboard often, may find polarised lenses make displays look dark. Skiers who need to spot icy patches may also prefer a non polarised lens.

Are category 1 sunglasses dark enough for summer?

Category 1 lenses let through 43 to 80 percent of light, so they suit bright cities and overcast days more than a beach at midday. For full summer sun, choose a category 2 lens at least.