Plum Dresses: 12 Picks and a 2026 Shade and Skin Tone Guide
Plum dresses sit in the deep purple family, with a red-brown warmth that makes them easier to wear than true violet. Plum leads with purple, burgundy leads with red, and aubergine is darker still. At Coveti you will find plum dresses from Solace London, Christopher Esber, Alex Perry and Carolina Herrera, plus wine and burgundy pieces from Roksanda.
This guide explains how plum compares with burgundy, wine and aubergine, which shades suit which skin tones, when to wear plum through the year, and which occasions it suits best. There is a shade table to help you shop, and every dress linked below carries the colour in its name.
What colour is plum?
Plum is a dark reddish purple, named after the skin of the ripe fruit. It sits between purple and red on the colour wheel, leaning towards purple, and usually carries a touch of brown that softens it.
That brown undertone is what makes plum so useful. Bright violet can look sharp under artificial light, while plum stays rich and slightly muted, much closer to a jewel tone than a primary colour. Designers name their shades differently, so you will see Plum, Dark Plum, Italian Plum and Chocolate Plum on product pages, all sitting in the same family.
What is the difference between plum, burgundy, wine and aubergine?
The short answer: plum is purple-led, burgundy and wine are red-led, and aubergine is the darkest, closest to black. They overlap, but the undertone tells you which family a dress belongs to.
| Shade | Leads with | Undertone | Depth | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Plum | Purple | Red and brown | Medium to dark | Weddings, evening, autumn |
| Aubergine | Purple | Blue and black | Very dark | Black tie, winter evenings |
| Mulberry | Purple and red equally | Pink | Medium | Spring and autumn events |
| Burgundy | Red | Purple and brown | Dark | Winter weddings, workwear |
| Wine | Red | Purple | Medium to dark | Evening, festive dressing |
| Oxblood | Red | Brown | Dark | Tailoring, city dressing |
Plum vs burgundy
Burgundy is named after the wine region in France and reads as a deep red with purple in it. Plum reads as a deep purple with red in it. Stand them side by side and burgundy looks warmer and redder, plum cooler and more violet. Roksanda’s Sami Dress in Deep Burgundy and Syla Dress in Burgundy show the red side of the line clearly. If burgundy is the colour you really want, our guide to how to wear burgundy dresses goes into it in detail.
Plum vs wine
Wine is a looser name than burgundy and covers a wider range, from deep red to red-purple. A wine dress usually sits closer to plum than burgundy does, but still leads with red. The Roksanda Rova Dress in Wine is cut in wine cloque with a cap sleeve, a notched neckline and a dramatically full skirt, and it is a good example of a wine shade that leans towards plum in low light.
Plum vs aubergine
Aubergine, called eggplant in the United States, is darker and bluer than plum. In candlelight it can read almost as black, which makes it a strong choice for anyone who usually wears black in the evening and wants a change. Solace London cuts aubergine into long dresses such as The Arla Maxi Dress in Aubergine and The Alba Maxi Dress in Aubergine.
Who suits plum dresses?
Almost everyone. Plum is one of the most widely flattering dark colours because it mixes warm red with cool purple, so it meets most skin tones halfway.
- Cool undertones (veins look blue, silver jewellery suits you): choose bluer plums and aubergine. They sharpen the complexion without drawing out redness.
- Warm undertones (veins look green, gold jewellery suits you): choose redder plums and wine shades, and Chocolate Plum with its brown base.
- Neutral undertones: most of the plum family works. Pick by occasion and fabric rather than shade.
- Fair skin: a mid plum is softer than aubergine, which can create a strong contrast against pale skin.
- Deep skin: saturated plum and mulberry look especially rich, and satin finishes catch the light beautifully.
Hair colour plays a part too. Plum looks lovely next to red and auburn hair because both carry warmth, and it gives dark hair a soft frame without the hard edge of black.
When should you wear plum?
Plum is at its most natural from September to February, but it works year round if you change the fabric.
In autumn and winter, choose weight: crepe, velvet, wool and heavy satin. Alex Perry’s Long Sleeve Knot Gown in Satin Crepe, Plum is cut in satin crepe with long sleeves, which makes it a sensible choice for a cold evening. For daytime, Max Mara’s Dalmata Wool Flannel Shirt Dress in Wine brings the colour into wool flannel.
In spring and summer, lighten the texture. Tulle, silk and knit keep plum from feeling heavy. Gabriela Hearst’s Oreads Knit Dress in Plum Silk is a silk knit, and Huishan Zhang’s Mckenzie Gown in Mulberry Tulle uses a lighter, pinker shade in airy tulle. For more autumn wedding ideas, see our fall wedding guest dresses guide.
What occasions suit a plum dress?
Plum suits weddings, black tie, mother of the bride dressing and smart workwear. It is formal enough for evening, yet soft enough for daytime.
Wedding guests
Plum is one of the safest strong colours for a wedding guest. It is clearly not white, it photographs well, and it rarely clashes with bridesmaids in pastel shades. A plum midi is right for most daytime ceremonies: Alex Perry’s Long Sleeve Dress in Satin Crepe, Plum and Bernadette’s Midi Dress Rosette in Plum both sit at midi length. Safiyaa’s Rika Midi Dress in Wine is a redder option. Our winter wedding guest dresses guide has more.
Black tie and evening
For black tie, go full length and lean into depth. Christopher Esber’s Orion Gown in Plum, Carolina Herrera’s Sofia Gown in Plum and Sir The Label’s Noria Sleeved Gown in Dark Plum all suit formal evenings. For embellishment, Saiid Kobeisy’s One-Shoulder Embroidered Tulle Dress in Italian Plum brings embroidery to the shade. Our purple evening gowns guide and the black tie optional guide cover the dress codes in more depth.
Mother of the bride and groom
Plum is a favourite with mothers of the couple because it feels celebratory without competing with the bride. A long sleeve gown in plum covers the arms for a church service, and it works across a long day from ceremony to dinner. Effie Kats offers gowns in a deep Chocolate Plum, such as the Avian Gown in Chocolate Plum. See our mother of the bride dresses page for more.
Workwear
Plum is a good alternative to navy and black in the office. Keep the cut simple, the fabric matte and the length at the knee and below. A wine shirt dress in wool flannel, worn with a dark brown boot, is plum dressing at its most practical.
How do you style a plum dress?
Keep accessories in the same depth, and add one contrast at most. Plum is rich enough on its own.
- Shoes: burgundy, chocolate brown, black and metallic gold all work. Nude suits a lighter plum.
- Jewellery: gold warms plum up; silver and pearls cool it down. Amethyst and garnet stay tonal.
- Bags: a satin clutch in the same shade looks expensive. A soft pink bag adds contrast without clashing.
- Outerwear: camel, chocolate and black coats all sit well over plum. Grey works with cooler, bluer plums.
- Tonal dressing: plum with burgundy and wine is a quietly confident combination. Roksanda’s Isabel Jacket in Burgundy over a plum dress is a good example of tonal layering.
Colours to approach with care are bright orange, which fights with the red in plum, and very pale lilac, which can look washed out next to it. If you want to pair plum with something brighter, our colour blocking guide explains which pairings work.
Where does Roksanda fit in the plum family?
Roksanda’s Autumn Winter 2026 palette sits right beside plum: deep burgundy, wine and Calliope, a dark oxblood. These are the red-led neighbours of plum, and they pair with it naturally.
Alongside the Rova in Wine and the Sami in Deep Burgundy, the Nyra Top in Calliope is a fluid crepe blouse with a pussy-bow collar that works with plum trousers and skirts for the office. The Rova Dress in Heliotrope, a vivid fuchsia, is the brighter end of the same story. You can see the whole collection in our Roksanda Autumn Winter 2026 guide and on the Roksanda brand page.
For more deep red and purple options, browse our burgundy evening gowns, burgundy wedding guest dresses and the full evening gowns and midi dresses edits.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between plum and burgundy?
Plum is a deep purple with red and brown in it, while burgundy is a deep red with purple in it. Side by side, burgundy looks warmer and redder and plum looks cooler and more violet.
Is aubergine darker than plum?
Yes. Aubergine, called eggplant in the United States, is darker and bluer than plum and can read almost as black in low light.
What skin tone suits plum?
Plum flatters most skin tones because it mixes warm red with cool purple. Cool undertones suit bluer plums and aubergine, warm undertones suit redder plums and wine shades, and deep skin tones look especially rich in saturated plum.
Can you wear a plum dress to a wedding?
Yes. Plum is one of the safest strong colours for a wedding guest because it is clearly not white, photographs well and rarely clashes with the wedding party. Choose midi for daytime and full length for black tie.
What colour shoes go with a plum dress?
Burgundy, chocolate brown, black and metallic gold all work well with plum. Nude shoes suit lighter plum shades.
Is plum an autumn colour?
Plum is most associated with autumn and winter, but it works year round. Choose crepe, velvet and wool in the colder months and silk, tulle and knit in spring and summer.