SemSem Dresses: Plisse Gowns, Sequins, Kaftans and How to Choose

SemSem dresses fall into five families: pressed plissé gowns, sequin tulle, crystal trimmed silk, kaftans and a short run of cocktail minis. They are made for evening, cut to move, and most are floor length. Below is how to choose between them, with every piece linked to SemSem at Coveti; for the wider category, see our designer evening gowns and the SemSem size guide before you order.

Key facts

• SemSem dresses at Coveti: gowns, maxi dresses, kaftans, midi slips and minis
• Price range in this edit: $2,010 to $4,290
• Most worn for: black tie weddings, galas, Eid, New Year’s Eve
• Sizing: US 0 to 14 (UK 4 to 18) on most gowns; S, M and L on kaftans and shirt dresses
• Fabrics: plissé lamé, silk charmeuse, silk chiffon, sequinned tulle, stretch crepe

Plissé gowns

The house signature, and the easiest SemSem to wear. Pressed pleats give a little stretch, so the fit is forgiving through the waist and hip.

1. SemSem Gold Pleated Metallic Lamé Gown, $3,040

A straight column of gold pleated lamé. The most versatile gown in the collection, and the one we would buy first.

2. SemSem One Shoulder Pleated Gold Lamé Gown, $3,040

Gold lamé again, with one shoulder and a high low hem that shows a black underlayer as you walk.

3. SemSem One-Shoulder Silk Metallic Plissé Gown, $2,890

Silk and metallic plissé in a cool lilac blue, cut on one shoulder with a cascade at the hip.

4. SemSem Engineered Plissé Bustier Maxi Dress in Navy, $4,290

The structured one: a sweetheart bustier over a navy pleated column. Black tie without a single sequin.

5. SemSem Pleated Metallic Maxi Dress, $3,040

Long sleeves, a deep V and silver pleats. The best choice when you want coverage and shine together.

6. SemSem Cape-Effect Plissé-Lamé Gown in Silver, $3,040

Silver plissé lamé with a cape that falls from the shoulders.

Sequin and tulle

7. SemSem Pleated Gold Sequin Tulle Gown, $3,410

Gold sequins on pleated tulle with a square neck and straps, made for a gala.

8. SemSem Sky Blue Pleated Sequin Tulle Gown, $3,410

The same gown in sky blue, softer for a daytime wedding.

9. SemSem Gold Sequin Sunray Gown, $3,410

Sunray pleated gold sequins, made for New Year’s Eve.

10. SemSem Ombré Sequin Bustier Dress with Beaded Fringe, $3,850

A bustier dress with tiers of beaded fringe that shade from silver to gold.

11. SemSem One-Shoulder Cutout Sequined Knitted Gown, $2,450

White sequinned knit, one shoulder, a cutout at the waist and a high slit. A modern bridal option.

Crystal silk and charmeuse

12. SemSem Indigo Crystal Embellished Silk Dress, $2,010

An indigo silk slip with a crystal strap and a handkerchief hem. Easy to pack, easy to wear.

13. SemSem Emerald Crystal Embellished Silk Dress, $2,010

The same slip in emerald, our pick for a winter wedding.

14. SemSem Silver Plissé Dress with Crystal Rope, $3,040

Silver plissé with a crystal rope that crosses the bodice.

15. SemSem Green Charmeuse Sunray Dress, $2,450

Green charmeuse with a pleated sunray skirt and a V neck.

Kaftans

16. SemSem Navy Silk Chiffon Kaftan Dress, $3,040

Navy silk chiffon with a cape back and crystal buttons. Sized S, M and L.

17. SemSem One Shoulder Ombré Sequin Kaftan, $3,040

One shoulder and ombré sequins in a loose kaftan line.

18. SemSem Gathered Viscose Jersey Kaftan Dress in Emerald, $2,450

Gathered emerald viscose jersey, the most comfortable kaftan in the collection.

Cocktail minis

19. SemSem Stretch Crepe Mini Dress in Black, $3,850

Black stretch crepe with crystal along the sweetheart neckline.

20. SemSem Draped Pleated Metallic Silk-Blend Crepe Mini Dress, $2,890

Pale blue draped metallic crepe, strapless, with a pleated train to one side.

Which SemSem dress for which occasion?

• For a black tie wedding, choose a plissé column, the navy bustier gown and the gold sequin tulle gown. More in our black tie dresses guide.
• For a Gulf wedding, Eid and Ramadan evenings, wear a kaftan; the long sleeved metallic maxi adds shine with the same coverage. See Arabic evening dresses.
• New Year’s Eve is the night for the sunray sequin gown and the ombré fringe dress. See New Year’s Eve dresses.
• At a cocktail party, wear either mini with flat sandals and a crystal earring.
• On holiday, pack the silk slips, which roll into a suitcase without creasing.

How SemSem dresses fit

Plissé gowns are forgiving: take your usual size. Bustier styles need to fit at the bust, so size to that measurement. One shoulder styles sit best when the shoulder strap is snug, so if you are between sizes on those, take the smaller. Kaftans are generous; most women take their usual letter size. The SemSem size guide has the conversions.

Frequently asked questions

Are SemSem dresses true to size?

Yes. SemSem cuts close to standard US sizing. Take your usual size in plissé and kaftans, and size to the bust on bustier styles.

What is the most popular SemSem dress?

The plissé lamé gown is the house signature. The Gold Pleated Metallic Lamé Gown and the one shoulder versions are the styles most people recognise as SemSem.

Are SemSem dresses made to order?

Many gowns are. SemSem quotes two to three weeks from its New York atelier for made to order pieces, so allow time before an event.

Can I wear a SemSem dress to a wedding?

Yes. Avoid white and ivory unless the couple has asked for it, and choose a plissé gown, a sequin tulle gown and, for a Gulf wedding, a kaftan.

How do I care for a SemSem plissé dress?

Dry clean only, and tell the cleaner it is heat pressed plissé. Store it hanging, never folded, and keep it away from steam, which relaxes the pleats.