Pleated Dresses: Plisse Gowns, Midis and How to Wear Them

A pleated dress is folded into regular creases that open as you move; plissé is the finest version, heat pressed into hundreds of narrow pleats. It is the most flattering texture in eveningwear because it skims rather than clings. This edit covers 16 pieces in stock, led by SemSem’s Gold Pleated Metallic Lamé Gown; browse more in our designer evening gowns and maxi dresses, and pair metallic pleats with our metallic dresses guide.

Key facts

• Pleated dresses in this edit: 16 pieces from 8 houses
• Price range in this edit: $590 to $5,679
• Plissé: fine heat set pleats; sunray: pleats that fan out from the waist; accordion: wider, deeper pleats
• Fit: pleats add stretch, so most are forgiving
• Care: dry clean, hang, never steam

Plissé gowns

1. SemSem Gold Pleated Metallic Lamé Gown, $3,040

Gold pleated lamé, the definitive plissé gown.

2. SemSem Engineered Plissé Bustier Maxi Dress in Navy, $4,290

Navy pleats under a structured bustier.

3. SemSem One-Shoulder Silk Metallic Plissé Gown, $2,890

Silk and metallic plissé in lilac blue, on one shoulder.

4. SemSem Plissé Lamé Strapless Maxi Dress in Metallic, $3,040

Cobalt blue lamé, ruched and strapless, with a slit.

5. SemSem Engineered Plissé Bustier Maxi Dress in Red, $4,290

The same engineered bustier gown in red.

6. Marmar Halim One-Shoulder Pleated Silk Dress in Lilac, $5,660

Marmar Halim pleated silk in lilac.

7. Gemy Maalouf Loose-Cut Plissé Dress, $3,280

Gemy Maalouf plissé, cut loose and modest.

8. Costarellos Senna Plissé Silk Velvet Lace Gown, $3,049

Costarellos plissé with silk velvet and lace.

9. Zuhair Murad Pleated Long Dress, $5,679

A long, fluid pleated dress from Zuhair Murad.

Sunray and sequin pleats

10. SemSem Gold Sequin Sunray Gown, $3,410

Gold sequins in sunray pleats, the party option.

11. SemSem Green Charmeuse Sunray Dress, $2,450

Green charmeuse with a sunray skirt.

12. SemSem Pleated Gold Sequin Tulle Gown, $3,410

Pleated tulle under gold sequins.

Pleated midis for every day

13. Victoria Beckham Plisse Dress in Dark Ocean, $2,510

Victoria Beckham plissé in dark ocean.

14. Max Mara Visino Long Sable Georgette Dress in Ruby, $1,220

Max Mara georgette, long and pleated, in ruby.

15. Max Mara Classi Jersey Dress with Plisse Skirt in Navy, $590

Max Mara jersey with a plissé skirt, the easiest workday option.

16. Zimmermann V Neck Pleated Midi, $1,390

Zimmermann V neck pleated midi.

How to wear a pleated dress

Let the pleats do the work: no belt on a plissé column, a fine belt at most on a pleated midi. Metallic pleats need little jewellery, so choose one strong piece. With sunray pleats, a pointed shoe keeps the line long. For a winter wedding, a cropped jacket over a plissé gown works better than a wrap, which flattens the pleats.

How to care for plissé

Heat set pleats are permanent but not indestructible. Hang the dress by its straps, twisted lightly along its length, never folded. Do not steam it, and tell your dry cleaner the pleats are heat set. To pack it, roll the dress lengthwise and slip it into a stocking; it will come out pleated.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between pleated and plissé?

Plissé is the French word for pleated, used for very fine, heat pressed pleats. Pleated covers every size of pleat, from narrow plissé to wide box pleats.

Are pleated dresses flattering?

Yes. Pleats skim the body rather than cling, and they add vertical lines that lengthen the figure.

Can plissé dresses be altered?

Taking in a side seam is possible, but hemming a plissé dress is difficult because the pleated edge cannot be recut. Choose the right length when you buy.

How do you wash a pleated dress?

Most designer pleated dresses are dry clean only. Hang them to store and never steam them.

What shoes go with a pleated maxi dress?

A slim heeled sandal and a pointed pump both work. Avoid chunky shoes, which fight the line of the pleats.