Maison Margiela Techniques: Artisanal, Bianchetto, Decortique and Fusion

Maison Margiela has a name for almost every way it treats a garment. Some techniques come from the founder's studio in the 1990s; others are newer. Knowing them helps you understand why two black coats from the house can look so different. Here is a guide to each one, with pieces in the Maison Margiela collection that use it.

Quick answer

• Artisanal: the house's couture, made by hand from remade and found materials.
• Bianchetto: hand-painting in white, fixed with heat.
• Decortique: stripping a garment back to its frame.
• Fusion: joining separate garments and fabrics into one.
• Lived-In: treatments that recreate the marks of wear.
• Exposed seams: raw edges and seams left on show.

Artisanal

Artisanal began as the founder's line of one-off garments made by hand from other things: army socks turned into a jumper, old gloves into a top, vintage dresses cut and rebuilt. It carried the number 0 on the label. Under John Galliano it became the house's couture, shown during Paris Couture Week, and Glenn Martens showed his first Artisanal collection in July 2025. Artisanal pieces are made to order; the ideas then flow into the ready-to-wear.

Bianchetto

Martin Margiela's studio painted its furniture, walls and even clothes white. Bianchetto applies that to garments: each piece is hand-painted on a flat surface, then treated with heat to set the paint. As you wear it, the paint cracks and wears where you move. This season: the Bianchetto Double-Breasted Wool Blazer in Pink Beige and the Cowl-Neck Crinkled Maxi Dress in White.

Decortique

Decortique, from the French for peeled, removes parts of a garment so its structure shows: the jacket without its collar, the lining without its outer. This season it appears on the Collarless Denim Jacket in White, the Elbow Patch Cardigan in Grey and the Straight Jeans with Contrasted Pockets in Blue Jeans.

Fusion

Fusion joins distinct garments, materials and archetypes so the boundaries between them blur. The Slashed Velvet Floral Maxi Dress in Bordeaux fuses aged tapestry and cut velvet, and the Fusion Velvet Structured Blazer in Purple fuses velvet into a structured blazer.

Lived-In and Greasy Patina

Lived-In treatments recreate fading and marks of wear, so a new piece looks owned. The Assemblage Calf Leather Midi Skirt in Brown uses it. Greasy Patina is a hand-applied finish that makes wool look waxed and worn, as on the Mohair Wool Blazer in Grey.

Exposed seams and tape

Construction details such as seams, hems and edges are left raw and visible. The Collarless Virgin Wool Coat in Navy Blue and the Virgin Wool Mini Dress in Black show it in wool, and the Taped Slip Dress in Black shows taped seams on the outside.

Why it matters when you buy

These treatments make each piece slightly different, so small variations are part of the design. They also explain the price: hand-painting, hand-applied finishes and fusing take time. Read about the founder's ideas and how Glenn Martens uses them.

Maison Margiela at a glance

Frequently asked questions

What is Maison Margiela Artisanal?

Artisanal is the house's couture line, made by hand, often from remade and found materials. It shows during Paris Couture Week.

What does Bianchetto mean?

Bianchetto comes from the Italian word for white. At Margiela it means a garment hand-painted white and fixed with heat, so the paint wears with use.

What is decortique in fashion?

Decortique means peeled. Margiela uses it for garments with parts removed so the structure shows.

Is deconstructed fashion meant to look unfinished?

Yes, on purpose. The raw edges and visible seams are stable and deliberate, showing how the garment is made.

Can I buy Artisanal at Coveti?

Coveti stocks the ready-to-wear collection, which carries Artisanal techniques such as Bianchetto, decortique and Fusion.

Read next: who is Martin Margiela, Margiela coats and jackets, Margiela dresses.