Men’s Peacoats: History, Fit and How to Wear a Pea Coat

A men’s peacoat is a short, hip-length coat with broad lapels and a straight cut, first worn by sailors, and it should fit close enough to look sharp while leaving room for a knit underneath. Herno, the Italian outerwear house founded on Lake Maggiore in 1948, calls the peacoat a navy-inspired menswear icon and makes two this season, one in faux shearling and one in a soft double-layered jersey.

Quick answer

• The peacoat began as a naval coat for sailors, cut short so they could climb rigging freely.
• Classic details: hip length, broad lapels, a double-breasted front, a straight body.
• It should end at the hip and close over a jumper without pulling across the chest.
• Herno makes two peacoats this season: a faux shearling version at $1,550 and a resort version at $1,910.
• Herno sizes are Italian: the UK/US chest size is the Italian size minus 10.
• Wear it with knitwear and dark trousers; it is less suited to going over a suit jacket.

Where does the peacoat come from?

The peacoat is a sailor’s coat. Navies on both sides of the Atlantic issued short, heavy wool coats to men working on deck, where a long coat would catch on ladders and rigging. The cut stayed short, the cloth stayed dense, and the broad lapels could be turned up and buttoned against the wind.

The name is less certain. Most accounts link it to the Dutch word pij, a coarse woollen cloth, while others offer different stories. What nobody disputes is the shape, which has changed very little since: short, straight and built for weather.

Herno arrived at outerwear from the other direction. The company began in 1948 in Lesa with men’s raincoats, added cashmere coats in the 1950s, and became famous from the 1980s for very light nylon down jackets. Its peacoats borrow the naval outline and rebuild it in modern fabrics. Read the brand story in who is Herno.

How should a peacoat fit?

A peacoat is meant to look neat. It is shorter and closer cut than an overcoat, so small fit errors show quickly.

Because a peacoat is usually worn over knitwear rather than a blazer, size around your knit. Order your usual jacket size, and size up one only if you plan to wear a chunky knit under it. Herno does not publish a blanket statement that its coats run small. Italian sizes convert by subtracting 10, so IT 50 is a UK/US 40. Our Herno size guide has the full chart.

Wool versus faux shearling: which peacoat fabric?

The traditional peacoat is heavy wool melton, a dense, felted cloth that blocks wind and sheds light snow. It is warm, it lasts for decades, and it is also heavy and stiff when new.

Modern peacoats lighten the load. Faux shearling gives a suede-effect outside and a plush lining, warm and wind-resistant without the weight of melton, and without real fur. Double-layered jersey fabrics give a soft, almost knitted feel that suits milder winters and travel.

The best Herno peacoats

Herno offers two peacoats this season. We have not padded this list with coats that are not peacoats; the alternatives after the picks are labelled as what they are.

1. Faux Shearling Peacoat in Pearl Grey

The warmer of the two, at $1,550. The outside has a suede-effect finish for a polished look, while the inside is a beaver-effect faux fur that feels soft and plush. Herno describes it as a navy-inspired menswear icon updated with modern proportions, and it keeps the lapel collar. The fabric is polyester with a little elastane, so there is no real fur. Pearl grey is unusual and easy with denim. Sizes 34 to 44.

2. Milk White Resort Peacoat in Double-Layered Viscose-Blend Fabric

The lighter peacoat, made in Italy, at $1,910. It is cut from a double-layered viscose-blend fabric brushed on both sides for a clean, elegant look, and the jersey construction makes it comfortable to wear all day. Milk white is a confident choice for mild winters, spring evenings and resort travel. It suits men who find wool peacoats too heavy. Sizes 38 to 44.

Not a peacoat, but worth a look

If you want the short, smart shape of a peacoat in a wool cloth, consider the Navy Blue Short Coat in Fine Wool at $3,300. It is a short coat, not a peacoat, made from premium New Zealand merino woven for a shiny, elastic texture. Please note it has a real dyed lamb shearling collar, so it is not a fur-free choice. For more on real and faux shearling, read our Herno shearling and faux fur guide.

How to wear a peacoat

A peacoat is at its best with knitwear. A crew neck, a roll-neck and a fisherman’s rib jumper all sit well under the lapels. Dark denim works, so do wool trousers, and leather boots look as right as clean trainers. Our men’s knitwear and sneakers edits are a good place to start.

Turn the collar up on windy days, as the sailors did. Keep the coat buttoned when it is cold: a peacoat is cut to close high at the chest, and the broad lapels then work like a windbreak across your throat. On milder days, wear it open over a shirt and a light knit. Add a wool beanie from our hats edit when it is cold.

Avoid wearing a peacoat over a suit jacket. The coat is short, so the jacket hem will show below it. For tailoring, a longer coat works better: see our men’s overcoats guide.

Peacoats around the world

• UK: A peacoat suits the British autumn and a mild winter, especially over a heavy knit. UK chest sizes match the numbers on our product pages.
• US: In Boston and New York, a peacoat is a weekend staple from October to March. US chest sizes are the same numbers as UK.
• Europe: In Scandinavia and northern Germany, choose the warmer faux shearling version. Italian labels read IT, so IT 52 is a 42.
• Japan: Tokyo’s dry, cool winter suits a lighter peacoat over a knit. Herno opened stores in Osaka and Tokyo in 1968.
• Middle East and Australia: The resort peacoat suits a Gulf winter evening and travel to colder places. Melbourne’s winter calls for the warmer version. Coveti ships from hubs in the UAE and Australia, with duties calculated at checkout.

Buying a Herno peacoat at Coveti

Every Herno piece at Coveti is 100% authentic, checked before dispatch and shipped worldwide by express. Browse all men’s coats, see the broader Herno coats for men guide, and read our returns page before you order. For other short coats in shearling, see Yves Salomon.

Read next: the men’s trench coat guide, the best luxury winter coats for men and quiet luxury outerwear for men.

Frequently asked questions

What is a peacoat?

A peacoat is a short, hip-length coat with broad lapels and a straight body, usually double-breasted. It began as a naval coat for sailors and is traditionally made from heavy wool.

How should a men’s peacoat fit?

A peacoat should end at the hip, with the shoulder seam at your natural shoulder and enough room to close over a jumper. The sleeve should cover your wrist bone and hide the cuff of your knit.

Can you wear a peacoat over a suit?

It is not ideal. A peacoat is short, so a suit jacket hem usually shows below it. A knee-length overcoat suits tailoring better, and so does a lighter topcoat.

Does Herno make a peacoat?

Yes. Herno offers a Faux Shearling Peacoat in pearl grey at $1,550, with a suede-effect outside and a faux fur lining, and a Resort Peacoat in milk white double-layered viscose-blend fabric, made in Italy, at $1,910.

Is the Herno Faux Shearling Peacoat real fur?

No. The Herno Faux Shearling Peacoat is made from polyester with a little elastane, with a suede-effect exterior and a beaver-effect faux fur interior. It contains no real fur.