Pleated Trousers for Men: Single vs Double Pleats and How to Wear Them

Pleated trousers for men have folds of cloth stitched at the waistband that open as you move, giving more room through the hip and thigh and a fuller, softer leg. Single pleats look clean; double pleats look more relaxed and more formal at once. Brunello Cucinelli makes double-pleated silk tuxedo trousers, and Coveti’s men’s trousers edit carries pleated styles beside them.

What are pleated trousers?

A pleat is a fold of cloth sewn into the front of the trouser at the waistband and pressed down into the leg. When you stand, the pleat lies flat. When you sit, walk and put your hands in your pockets, it opens and gives the cloth somewhere to go. That is the whole point: comfort, and a leg that drapes rather than clings.

Pleats went out of fashion when trousers became slim and low-rise, and they have come back for the opposite reason. A wider, higher trouser looks better with knitwear, soft jackets and chunky shoes, and pleats are what make that shape work. Our guide to Brunello Cucinelli menswear explains how the house cuts its trousers to sit under knitwear, and the piece on the chalk stripe suit shows the same tailored trousers worn as separates.

Single vs double pleats: what is the difference?

There is also the question of direction. A forward pleat folds towards the fly, the Italian habit, and gives a neat, flat line. A reverse pleat folds out towards the pocket, which is the more traditional English way. Neither is right; they simply look slightly different.

Why does rise matter so much?

Rise is the distance from the crotch seam to the waistband, and it decides whether pleats work. On a low-rise trouser the pleats have nowhere to hang from, so they splay open and look untidy. On a trouser that sits at the natural waist, around the navel, they fall straight and do their job. If you are trying pleats for the first time, choose a mid to high rise and tuck your shirt in, so the waistband is visible. A belt is the finishing touch: the reversed calfskin belt in anthracite is a soft, matte option that suits wool and flannel.

The Brunello Cucinelli double-pleated tuxedo trousers

The clearest example in the Winter Edit is the Double-pleated tuxedo trousers in Sand. They are 100% silk, cut with two pleats each side for a fluid leg that moves well in evening clothes. Wear them with the matching one-and-a-half-breasted tuxedo jacket in sand for a light, modern take on evening dress, and read our guide to the black tie dress code for where a sand tuxedo fits. Worn alone, the trousers are just as good with a dark roll neck for a dinner that does not ask for a tie.

The rest of the house’s tailored trousers belong in the same wardrobe. The Chalk stripe flannel trousers in Dark Grey are cut in a flannel of 89% wool, 6% silk and 5% cashmere, and the Gabardine trousers in White are 63% cotton and 37% virgin wool, a crisp choice for winter whites.

Pleated trousers from other brands

Mackage cuts a pleated wool trouser for everyday wear. The Martin-Z Pleated Wool Pants in Taupe and the Martin-Z Pleated Wool Pants in Navy are the easiest way into the shape, smart enough for the office and relaxed enough for weekends. For a casual take, Herno’s Pleated Denim Trousers in Light Blue put pleats on denim, which looks fresh with a navy knit and white sneakers. Browse the full Mackage and Herno edits for more.

How do you wear pleated trousers with knitwear?

Pleats and knitwear were made for each other. The fuller trouser balances the volume of a sweater, where a skinny trouser would leave you looking top-heavy. Three rules:

• Tuck in a fine knit, leave a heavy one out. A fine cashmere crew neck tucked into pleated trousers shows the waist; a chunky sweater worn out should finish at the top of the pleats.
• Keep the knit close. A neat Cashmere sweater in Panama with taupe pleated trousers is a calm, tonal outfit. A cashmere knit polo shirt in navy adds a collar without a shirt.
• Match the weight. Flannel trousers want a heavier knit; gabardine and silk want something finer.

Our edit of quiet luxury menswear shows the wider wardrobe this look belongs to.

Can you wear pleated trousers with sneakers?

Yes, and it is one of the best ways to make pleats feel modern. The rule is to choose a sneaker with some substance, because a very thin shoe disappears under a full trouser leg. The Nubuck and suede runners in Sand have the texture to stand up to wool, while the knit runners with heat-bonded details in cocoa are the lighter choice for denim and cotton. Have the trousers hemmed with little to no break so the hem sits cleanly on the shoe. Our guide to Brunello Cucinelli sneakers covers how each runner fits.

For a smarter take, the Textured suede Derbys in Milk give pleated trousers a soft, Italian finish.

How should pleated trousers fit?

Pleats should lie flat when you stand. If they pull open, the trousers are too tight at the hip; go up a waist size and have the waist taken in. Coveti shows Brunello Cucinelli trousers as UK and US waist sizes, using UK equals IT minus 16.

The tuxedo trousers run from a 28 to a 42 waist. Full tables are in our Brunello Cucinelli men’s size guide.

Frequently Asked Questions

Are pleated trousers in style for men in 2026?

Yes. Pleated trousers have returned alongside wider, higher-rise tailoring, and they look especially good with knitwear, soft jackets and substantial shoes.

What is the difference between single and double pleats?

Single pleats have one fold each side of the fly and give a clean leg with a little extra room. Double pleats have two folds each side, give the most room at the hip and thigh, and create a fuller, more fluid leg.

How should pleated trousers fit?

The pleats should lie flat when you stand and open only when you move. If they pull open at rest, the trousers are too tight at the hip. A mid to high rise helps the pleats hang straight.

Can you wear pleated trousers with sneakers?

Yes. Choose a sneaker with some substance, such as a suede runner, and hem the trousers with little to no break so the leg sits cleanly on the shoe.

What size Brunello Cucinelli trousers should I buy?

Coveti shows Brunello Cucinelli trousers as UK and US waist sizes using UK equals IT minus 16, so an IT 50 is a 34 waist. Measure your natural waist and compare it with a pair of trousers you already own.