Schiaparelli Brooches: The Dove, the Eye, the Zodiac and How to Wear Them

Schiaparelli brooches are sculptural pins in gold plated brass, often hammered and set with enamel and glass, built on the house codes: the Dove, the Eye, the face, the zodiac, birds and snails. The most famous is the Dove carrying an olive branch that Lady Gaga wore pinned to her Schiaparelli couture gown at the 2021 US presidential inauguration. Coveti stocks more than 40 Schiaparelli brooches; see them in brooches and pins, on the Schiaparelli at Coveti hub and in our Schiaparelli jewellery guide.

Key facts about Schiaparelli brooches

• Material: gold plated brass, frequently hammered, with enamel, glass and rhinestone details.
• Most famous: the Dove brooch worn by Lady Gaga in January 2021.
• Price range at Coveti: about $1,380 to $6,100.
• Families: Dove, Eye, Visage and faces, Mouth, zodiac signs, birds, snails and trompe l’oeil objects.

The Dove

The Dove holding an olive branch is a symbol of peace in Schiaparelli’s own description of the 2021 inauguration look. Shop the Dove Brooch in Brass and the original Dove Brooch. The bird also appears on the Dove Cufflinks, hammered gold plated brass with blue enamel and a snail.

Eyes, faces and mouths

The anatomical brooches are the most surrealist family. The Eye and Teardrops Brooch hangs gilded tears from an eye; the Visage Brooch and Face Brooch are sculpted faces; the Pierced Mouth Brooch and Double Brooch with Mouth and Eye work in pairs. The Mouth also features on the Keyhole Cufflinks.

The zodiac brooches

Each sign is a hammered gilded medallion, priced around $2,130 to $2,390 at Coveti: Aries, Gemini, Leo, Libra, Sagittarius, Capricorn, Pisces, Scorpio, Virgo, Taurus, Aquarius and Cancer. A sign is the easiest Schiaparelli gift to get right.

Birds and snails

The Hummingbird Brooch, the Bird’s Nest Brooch, the Bird Claw Brooch and the Snail Brooch are the nature pieces. The snail is a quieter way into the house, and the bird claw repeats the heel of the Creature Mules.

How to wear a Schiaparelli brooch

• On a lapel: the classic place, high on the left of a black jacket.
• At the neck: close a shirt collar with a small brooch instead of the top button.
• On a knit: a single brooch off centre on a plain sweater, the way Elsa Schiaparelli wore her own jewellery against knitwear.
• In a cluster: two to three zodiac pieces together on a coat collar.

Pin through a double layer of fabric where you can, so the weight of the brass does not pull the cloth. For the meaning behind each motif read the Schiaparelli codes explained, and for older pieces see our vintage Schiaparelli jewellery guide.

Schiaparelli brooch families compared

Schiaparelli brooches as gifts

A zodiac brooch is the most personal gift in the range and the easiest to choose, since you only need a birthday. The Dove carries the strongest story, and the Snail Brooch is the most affordable sculptural piece. For a man, the Dove Cufflinks and Keyhole Cufflinks at $1,690 carry the same codes in a form he can wear with a suit.

Frequently asked questions

What brooch did Lady Gaga wear at the inauguration?

Lady Gaga wore a Schiaparelli gold plated brass Dove brooch holding an olive branch, pinned to her Schiaparelli haute couture gown, at the US presidential inauguration in January 2021.

What are Schiaparelli brooches made of?

Current Schiaparelli brooches are made of gold plated brass, often hammered, with enamel, glass and rhinestone details. They are fashion jewellery, not solid gold.

How much is a Schiaparelli brooch?

At Coveti, Schiaparelli brooches cost about $1,380 to $6,100. The zodiac brooches sit around $2,130 to $2,390.

Are Schiaparelli brooches real gold?

No. They are gold plated brass. Solid gold brooches sit in the fine jewellery category.

How do you care for a Schiaparelli brooch?

Keep it away from fragrance and moisture, wipe it with a soft dry cloth after wearing, and store it on its own in the pouch so the plating does not scratch.

Does Schiaparelli make cufflinks?

Yes. Schiaparelli makes cufflinks in hammered gold plated brass and enamel, including the Dove Cufflinks and the Keyhole Cufflinks with a Mouth.