The Schiaparelli Codes Explained: Keyhole, Trompe l’Oeil, Lobster, Shocking Pink

Schiaparelli’s codes are a set of surrealist symbols that recur across the couture, the ready-to-wear and the accessories: trompe l’oeil, the Keyhole, gilded anatomy, the Lobster, the Dove, the Measuring Tape and Shocking pink. Most trace back to Elsa Schiaparelli’s work in the 1920s and 1930s with artists such as Salvador Dalí, Jean Cocteau and Man Ray; Daniel Roseberry, creative director since 2019, has made them the house’s visual signature. Every piece below is in the Schiaparelli at Coveti hub.

Key facts about the Schiaparelli codes

• Trompe l’oeil: first used in 1927 on a hand knitted sweater.
• Shocking pink: launched in 1937 with the Shocking perfume.
• The Lobster: the 1937 Lobster dress, made with Salvador Dalí.
• The Measuring Tape: wrapped around the 1937 Shocking bottle, shaped like a dressmaker’s bust.
• The Dove: the brooch Lady Gaga wore at the 2021 inauguration.

Trompe l’oeil

Trompe l’oeil means “deceive the eye”. Elsa Schiaparelli’s first trompe l’oeil was a black and white knitted sweater, made for herself in 1927, that appeared to carry a bow; it drew so much attention that it launched the house. Today it shows up as printed bodies and hands on Trompe L’Oeil Hand Dress and knitwear, and as the scale pattern on the Slither Hoodie.

Gold toes, eyes and anatomy

Roseberry extended trompe l’oeil into gilded anatomy: toes on the Trompe L’Oeil Sneakers, nails on the Trompe L’Oeil Gloves, eyes on the Eye Ring, and the clasped hands of the Hand in Hand Clutch. Our Schiaparelli bags guide covers the anatomy bags in detail.

The Keyhole

The Keyhole, which the house also calls the Trou de Serrure, is the code you see most often in the current collections. It is cut out of the Keyhole Tank Top, cast in gold metal on the Keyhole Pumps, and turned into jewellery on the Keyhole Earrings and Keyhole Ring.

The Lobster

In 1937 Elsa Schiaparelli and Salvador Dalí made the Lobster dress, which Wallis Simpson wore in her honeymoon trousseau; American Vogue gave it eight pages. The lobster returns on pieces such as the Western Lobster Belt.

Shocking pink

Shocking pink arrived in 1937 together with the Shocking perfume. It is the lining colour of the Keyhole pumps and of the Trompe L’Oeil Sandals, a flash of the house colour visible only when the shoe moves.

The Measuring Tape

The 1937 Shocking bottle was shaped like a dressmaker’s bust, with a tape measure around its neck. The tape now appears as embroidery on the Measuring Tape Sandals, as gold straps on the anatomical heel sandals and on the Iconic Measuring Tape Jacket.

The Dove and the snail

The Dove holding an olive branch became a headline code when Lady Gaga wore the brooch in 2021. It appears on the Dove Brooch and the Dove Cufflinks. Read our Schiaparelli brooches guide for the full family.

The Schiaparelli codes at a glance

Frequently asked questions

What does the Schiaparelli keyhole mean?

The Keyhole, also called the Trou de Serrure, is one of the house codes that Daniel Roseberry uses across clothing, shoes and jewellery. It plays on concealment and revelation, in the surrealist spirit of the house.

What is Schiaparelli trompe l’oeil?

Trompe l’oeil means deceive the eye. Elsa Schiaparelli’s first trompe l’oeil was a hand knitted sweater with an illusion bow in 1927, and the house still uses printed and sculpted illusions today.

Why does Schiaparelli use gold toes?

The gold toes extend the house’s trompe l’oeil and anatomical codes: the front of the shoe is cast to look like a gilded foot.

What is Shocking pink?

Shocking pink is the vivid pink Elsa Schiaparelli launched in 1937 together with her Shocking perfume. It remains the house colour.

Who made the Schiaparelli lobster dress?

Elsa Schiaparelli made the Lobster dress in 1937 in collaboration with Salvador Dali. Wallis Simpson wore it as part of her honeymoon trousseau.

What does the Schiaparelli dove mean?

In the house description of the 2021 inauguration look, the gold plated brass dove holding an olive branch is a symbol of harmony and peace.