Vintage Schiaparelli Jewelry: What to Know Before You Buy, and the New Pieces

Vintage Schiaparelli jewelry falls into two very different groups: pieces from Elsa Schiaparelli’s own couture years before 1954, which are rare and museum level, and the later signed costume jewellery sold in the 1950s, which is what most resale listings carry. The jewellery the house makes today, designed by Daniel Roseberry since 2019, is different again: sculptural gold plated brass built on surrealist codes. Coveti sells the current collection new, in the jewellery edit and on the Schiaparelli at Coveti hub; our Schiaparelli jewellery guide covers it piece by piece.

Key facts about Schiaparelli jewellery, old and new

• 1931: the Aspirin necklace with Elsa Triolet, porcelain beads shaped like tablets, is the house’s first artist collaboration.
• 1954: the couture house closes, ending the original era.
• 2012: the house reopens; Roseberry’s jewellery follows from 2019.
• Current material: gold plated brass, often hammered, with enamel and glass.
• Current price range at Coveti: about $1,400 to $11,000.

What “vintage Schiaparelli” usually means

Most vintage Schiaparelli jewellery on the resale market is mid century costume jewellery: brooches, earrings and parures in coloured glass and rhinestones, signed with the Schiaparelli name. It is collectable in its own right, but it is not the sculptural gilded work associated with the house today. The designs Elsa made with artists in the 1930s, such as the Aspirin necklace, are archive and museum pieces.

What to check before buying a vintage piece

• The signature: look for the Schiaparelli name on the back of the piece, and compare it with signed examples from a reputable dealer.
• Construction: period pieces use prong set glass stones; glued stones throughout can point to repairs.
• Provenance: ask where the piece came from. A dealer who specialises in signed costume jewellery is the safest source.
• Condition: check for missing stones and worn plating, which affect value more than age does.

For current season pieces, our guide to buying authentic Schiaparelli covers what to check.

The new pieces that echo the archive

Roseberry’s jewellery keeps the surrealist spirit of the 1930s without copying it:

• Dove Brooch: the motif Lady Gaga wore in 2021.
• Eye and Teardrops Earrings and Eye Stud Earrings.
• Keyhole Earrings and the Keyhole Ring.
• Snail Hoop Earrings in antique gold.
• Telephone Dial Brooch, a nod to the 1935 Dalí compact shaped like a telephone dial.
• Keyhole Cufflinks and Dove Cufflinks in hammered gold plated brass and enamel.

See the Schiaparelli brooches guide for the full brooch family and the history of the house for the dates.

Vintage and new Schiaparelli jewellery compared

Caring for Schiaparelli jewellery

Keep plated brass away from fragrance, creams and water, and put jewellery on last. Wipe each piece with a soft dry cloth after wearing and store it in its own pouch, since brass pieces scratch each other. For vintage glass stones, never soak the piece: moisture loosens the settings.

Frequently asked questions

Is vintage Schiaparelli jewelry valuable?

Signed mid century Schiaparelli costume jewellery is collectable, and pieces in good condition with all stones intact hold their value best. Pieces from the 1930s couture era are rare archive items.

How can you tell if Schiaparelli jewelry is real?

Check for the Schiaparelli signature, period construction such as prong set stones, and the provenance of the seller. For current pieces, buy from the house, its boutiques and authorised retailers.

Is Schiaparelli jewelry real gold?

Current Schiaparelli jewellery is gold plated brass, not solid gold. Vintage costume pieces use coloured glass and rhinestones on base metal.

What was the first Schiaparelli jewellery collaboration?

The 1931 Aspirin necklace with the writer Elsa Triolet, made of porcelain beads shaped like tablets.

Does Schiaparelli still make jewelry?

Yes. Under Daniel Roseberry the house makes brooches, earrings, rings, necklaces, bracelets and cufflinks in gold plated brass.

How much is Schiaparelli jewelry today?

At Coveti, current Schiaparelli jewellery costs about $1,400 to $11,000.