Signet Rings: History, Which Finger and Gemstone Signets

The signet ring is the oldest idea in this whole jewellery edit, and somehow it still feels modern. This guide explains where the signet ring came from, which finger to wear it on, how to size one and what a gemstone signet adds to the tradition. The examples are the 26 signet rings by Suzanne Kalan in our signet rings edit, starting with the La Fantaisie Star Rainbow Sapphire Signet Ring in 18K Yellow Gold, around $5,540 at Coveti.

Put simply, a signet ring is a ring with a broad, flat face. Historically that face was engraved with a seal and pressed into wax to sign documents. Traditionally it is worn on the little finger of the non-dominant hand, but today it is worn on any finger. Size it for the finger you plan to wear it on.

That last point catches a lot of people out, so we will come back to it.

What a signet ring was for

Historically, a signet ring was a seal you wore. Its face was engraved, and pressing it into wax left an impression that marked a document as yours. The ring was, quite literally, a signature.

That practical history is why a signet has its shape. The face needs to be flat and wide enough to carry a design, and the band needs to be sturdy enough to take pressure. Even now, when nobody is sealing letters, that shape gives a signet more presence than an ordinary band of the same width.

The modern signet keeps the shape and loosens the rules. Some are engraved with initials. Others, like the Suzanne Kalan designs, use the flat face as a setting for stones instead. You are buying the silhouette and the feeling of the tradition, not a working seal.

Which finger to wear a signet ring on

Tradition says the little finger of your non-dominant hand. It is still the placement most people picture when they hear the word signet.

Today the choice is yours, and each finger says something slightly different.

The little finger is the classic placement. It reads as knowing and a little old-fashioned in the best way. It is also a good spot if you wear an engagement ring, because the signet sits apart from it.

The index finger is the boldest choice. A signet here is the first thing people see when you gesture. Keep other rings on that hand minimal.

The ring finger works well if you are not wearing a wedding band, and it can look lovely stacked with a slim band below. We cover combinations in our stackable rings guide.

The middle finger is the most comfortable place for a heavier ring, because it is the longest finger and sits at the centre of the hand. It is an underrated spot for a signet.

There is no wrong answer. If in doubt, try the ring on each finger in a mirror and see which one looks like you.

How to size a signet ring

A signet has a wide face and often a thicker band, so it fits more snugly than a slim ring of the same size. Two things follow from that.

First, size for the actual finger. Little fingers are usually several sizes smaller than ring fingers, so do not assume your engagement ring size will work on your pinky. Our ring size chart explains how to measure at home.

Second, measure at the end of the day, when fingers are slightly larger, and in a warm room. Cold fingers shrink. A ring that fits perfectly on a cold morning can feel tight by evening.

Suzanne Kalan rings are made in US sizes, with quarter sizes available, which helps a great deal with a wide ring. Check the size options on each signet’s product page, and if you sit between two sizes, go for the larger one.

Gemstone signet rings

A gemstone signet replaces the engraved face with stones. It keeps the strong, flat profile of the classic ring, then adds colour and light. For many people it is the version that makes the signet feel personal, because the stone becomes the emblem.

The Princess Signet

The Princess collection sets princess-cut stones, which are square brilliants, and the signet makes one the focus. Each Princess Signet has a 4×4 mm princess-cut centre stone with 0.12 carats of baguette and round diamonds around it.

The centre stone is your choice of colour. The Princess Diamond Signet Ring in 18K Yellow Gold has a 0.40 carat diamond centre and is around $9,510 at Coveti, the top price in the signet range. The Princess Light Blue Sapphire Signet Ring in 18K Yellow Gold sets a 0.44 carat light blue sapphire for around $5,690. The Princess Pink Sapphire Signet Ring in 18K Rose Gold is the same price, and pink sapphire against rose gold is a very flattering pairing. The Princess Emerald Signet Ring in 18K Yellow Gold sets a 0.33 carat emerald for around $6,870.

The La Fantaisie Star Signet

La Fantaisie is the house’s collection of stars and celestial shapes, and on the signet the face carries a star. It is less formal than the Princess, and more playful.

The La Fantaisie Star Rainbow Sapphire Signet Ring in 18K Rose Gold sets 0.56 carats of princess-cut rainbow sapphires, meaning sapphires in many natural colours, with 0.08 carats of round diamonds for around $5,540 at Coveti. The La Fantaisie Star Ruby Signet Ring in 18K Rose Gold uses rubies in the same layout at the same price. The La Fantaisie Star Diamond Signet Ring in 18K White Gold has 0.53 carats of princess-cut and round diamonds for around $6,870, and the La Fantaisie Star Emerald Signet Ring in 18K Yellow Gold sets 0.40 carats of emeralds for around $6,570.

Choosing the stone

A signet sits on the hand, and hands get knocked. That makes stone hardness more important than it is for earrings.

Diamond is 10 on the Mohs scale and sapphire is 9, so both are excellent choices for a ring you wear every day. Emerald is 7.5 to 8 and more brittle. It is beautiful in a signet, but take it off for sport, gardening and heavy work, and keep it out of ultrasonic cleaners.

Colour is personal. Blue sapphire in yellow gold reads classic, almost heraldic, which suits the history of the signet. Pink in rose gold is softer. Rainbow sapphires are the most cheerful, and they pair well with other coloured jewellery because they already contain most colours.

Which gold to choose

Every Suzanne Kalan signet at Coveti is 18 carat gold, which is 75% pure gold. The Princess and La Fantaisie diamond versions each come in yellow, rose and white gold, while each coloured stone is matched to a single shade, apart from the rainbow sapphire, which comes in yellow and rose.

Yellow gold is the traditional signet metal and the warmest. Rose gold flatters pink stones and rubies. White gold makes diamonds look brighter and icier, and it is usually rhodium plated, so expect to have it re-plated every few years if you wear it daily.

Wearing a signet with other rings

A signet is a statement on its own, so give it some space. A good rule is one signet per hand.

On the same hand, keep the other rings slim. A thin diamond band next to a gemstone signet looks deliberate. If you like a fuller hand, a half eternity band on the next finger is a lovely partner, and our eternity rings guide explains the difference between full and half bands.

Match one element. A pink sapphire signet next to a pink sapphire band links the two. A diamond signet next to diamond studs and a diamond tennis bracelet keeps the whole look white and bright.

Every Suzanne Kalan piece is handcrafted and made in America, and the house has made fine jewellery since 1988. Our profile, who is Suzanne Kalan, tells the story, and you can see the full range of rings on the Suzanne Kalan brand page.

What to pay for a signet ring

The 26 Suzanne Kalan signet rings at Coveti run from around $5,540 to around $9,510, with a middle of about $6,870. That is a narrow band, because the designs share a scale. The rainbow sapphire and ruby La Fantaisie Stars sit at the bottom, the Princess light blue and pink sapphires just above, the emerald and diamond versions of both designs in the middle, and the Princess Diamond Signet at the top. With a spread that small, pick the stone and the gold colour first and let the price follow.

FAQ

What is a signet ring?

A signet ring is a ring with a broad, flat face, originally engraved with a seal that was pressed into wax to sign documents. Today the face can be engraved, plain, set with stones and anything in between. Suzanne Kalan signets use the flat face as a setting for princess-cut stones and star motifs in 18 carat gold.

Which finger do you wear a signet ring on?

Traditionally a signet ring is worn on the little finger of the non-dominant hand, and that is still the classic look. Today you can wear one on any finger. The little finger is the classic placement, the index finger is the boldest, and the middle finger is the most comfortable for a wider ring.

How should a signet ring fit?

A signet ring should slide over the knuckle with slight resistance and sit without spinning. Because a signet is wider than a slim band, it feels tighter in the same size, so if you sit between sizes choose the larger one. Measure the finger you plan to wear it on, at the end of the day, in a warm room.

Can women wear signet rings?

Yes, signet rings are worn by everyone, and gemstone signets in particular are designed with a lighter, more decorative look. A smaller face suits a slim finger, and coloured stones such as pink sapphire, rainbow sapphire and emerald make the ring feel personal. Suzanne Kalan signet rings at Coveti start at around $5,540.

How much does a gold signet ring cost?

Suzanne Kalan gold signet rings at Coveti cost from around $5,540 to around $9,510. The La Fantaisie Star rainbow sapphire and ruby signets are the entry point. The Princess Diamond Signet, with a 0.40 carat princess-cut diamond centre and 0.12 carats of baguette and round diamonds, is the most expensive. All are 18 carat gold.

Is a gemstone signet ring practical for daily wear?

Yes, a gemstone signet is practical for daily wear when the stone is hard, such as diamond and sapphire. Diamond is 10 on the Mohs scale and sapphire 9. Emerald, at 7.5 to 8, is more brittle, so remove an emerald signet for sport and heavy work and avoid ultrasonic cleaners.