Tennis Necklaces: How to Choose Carats, Length and Cut

The tennis necklace has become the diamond piece of the moment, and it is easy to see why: it goes with a T-shirt as happily as with an evening dress. Before you spend, though, it helps to know what separates a good one from a great one. I have used the Suzanne Kalan pieces we carry to put real numbers on every choice, and you can see the whole edit of tennis necklaces alongside. A sensible place to begin is the Linear Full Diamond Tennis Necklace in 18K White Gold, a fluid line of 4.10 carats of aligned baguettes.

A tennis necklace is a continuous, flexible line of individually set stones of similar size, usually diamonds, worn close to the collarbone. At Coveti, Suzanne Kalan tennis necklaces start at around $25,680 with a median near $60,370. Most are made in 18 carat gold, at 16 to 18 inches, and many are adjustable.

Why the tennis necklace works

It borrows its name and its construction from the tennis bracelet. Each stone sits in its own small setting, hinged to the next, so the necklace lies flat and follows the curve of the neck instead of hanging from a single point like a pendant. There is no focal stone to explain. It is light, all the way round, and that is the whole idea.

That is the reason it layers so well, and the reason it has moved from evening wear into everyday dressing. If you already own a tennis bracelet, the necklace is the natural partner; our tennis bracelet guide covers the wrist version in the same detail.

Half against full

The first decision is how much of the necklace is set with stones. A full tennis necklace has stones the whole way round. A half tennis necklace concentrates the stones along part of the line, which brings the price down and makes it lighter to wear.

Suzanne Kalan makes both in her Linear collection, which is the clearest comparison in the range. The Linear Half Diamond Tennis Necklace in 18K Yellow Gold carries 1.75 carats of baguettes for around $32,440 at Coveti. The full version holds 4.10 carats for around $42,150. More than twice the diamonds for under a third more money is a strong argument for going full, if the budget allows.

Half lines do have a place. They sit beautifully under an open collar, and they are the easiest way into the category. The Princess family also offers half designs: the Princess Mini Half Diamond Tennis Necklace in 18K White Gold uses 1.5 x 1.5 mm princess-cut diamonds, 3.25 carats in total, for around $43,620.

Choosing a length

Length decides where the stones land, and with a tennis necklace that matters more than usual, because the line is meant to be seen.

At 16 inches, a necklace sits at the base of the neck on most people. It is the length for open necklines and the one that reads most like a classic diamond riviere. At 18 inches, it falls just below the collarbone and slips easily under a shirt collar. Suzanne Kalan necklaces generally run 16 to 18 inches, and many are adjustable, which takes most of the guesswork away.

Then there are the long lines. A 36 inch tennis necklace can be worn long, and doubled into two rows at the throat when you want it shorter. The Princess Mini Diamond 36″ Inch Tennis Necklace in 18K Yellow Gold runs 11.75 carats of 1.5 x 1.5 mm princess-cut diamonds and is around $108,880 at Coveti. It is a serious piece, and very versatile for the money.

A quick test at home: take a piece of string, lay it round your neck where you want the stones to sit, and measure it. Then try the length with the necklines you wear most.

How many carats?

Total carat weight is the headline figure, but stone size changes the look just as much. A line of small stones reads as a fine shimmer. A line of larger stones reads as diamonds, from across the room.

Look at the Classic Diamond Mini and the Linear Full. The Mini holds fewer carats yet costs more, because it uses the Fireworks setting, with baguettes placed at offset, scattered angles so each stone catches the light on its own. That is more work at the bench and a very different effect on the neck. Linear lines the baguettes up neatly. I would not call one better; they suit different people, and different necklines.

Picking a cut

Baguette

Baguettes are long rectangular step cuts, and they are Suzanne Kalan’s signature. They give a cooler, more architectural sparkle. The Classic Diamond Tennis Necklace in 18K White Gold, with 5.15 carats of baguettes in the Fireworks arrangement, is around $66,250 at Coveti and is the piece I would call the house classic.

Round brilliant

A round brilliant has 57 to 58 facets and gives the most familiar, twinkly sparkle. If you picture a tennis necklace in your head, this is probably it. The Classic Diamond Round Tennis Necklace in 18K Yellow Gold sets 7.65 carats of round diamonds for around $69,190.

Princess cut

Princess-cut stones are square brilliants, so they pack tightly with very little gold showing between them. The La Fantaisie Cosmic Diamond Tennis Necklace in 18K Rose Gold, from the collection built round stars and celestial shapes, carries 4.50 carats of princess-cut diamonds for around $57,430. For maximum impact, the Princess Milli Half Diamond Tennis Necklace in 18K Yellow Gold uses 3 x 3 mm stones, 12.75 carats in all, around $132,400.

Coloured stones

A coloured tennis necklace is less formal than a white diamond one, and it often gives you far more stone for the price. Sapphire is the obvious choice. It is corundum, 9 on the Mohs scale, so it is hard enough for daily wear.

The Bold collection makes the point well. The Bold Rainbow Sapphire Tennis Necklace in 18K Yellow Gold holds 17.31 carats of rainbow sapphire baguettes, sapphires in many natural colours set together, for around $60,370 at Coveti. The Bold Diamond version, at 9.70 carats, is around $111,820. If scale is what you want, colour gets you there for roughly half.

For a gentler entry, the Linear Half Rainbow Sapphire Tennis Necklace in 18K Yellow Gold has 2.60 carats of baguettes for around $25,680, the lowest price in our tennis necklace range. The Linear Full Dark Blue Sapphire Tennis Necklace in 18K White Gold carries 6.25 carats for around $31,860 and looks wonderful with navy and grey.

Emerald is spectacular and a little more delicate. It is beryl, 7.5 to 8 on the Mohs scale, more brittle than sapphire, so keep it away from knocks and ultrasonic cleaners. The Frenzy Emerald Tennis Necklace in 18K Yellow Gold, with baguettes at deliberately uneven angles, sets 8.75 carats of emerald with 1.45 carats of round diamonds for around $91,240.

Choosing the gold

Suzanne Kalan tennis necklaces are made in 18 carat gold, 75% pure, in yellow, white and rose. Yellow gold makes baguettes glow and suits rainbow and pastel stones. White gold gives the iciest look with white diamonds and dark blue sapphire; it is usually rhodium plated and may need re-plating over the years. Rose gold is softer and flattering on most skin tones. If you plan to wear the necklace with a tennis bracelet, match the metal and let the stones differ.

How to wear one

On its own, a tennis necklace is enough. Wear it at 16 inches with a crew neck sweater, which frames it, and with an open shirt for something more relaxed.

For layering, pair a tennis line with a fine chain and a pendant a few inches longer, so each piece has its own space. A tennis necklace also works with matching studs; our diamond stud earrings guide has suggestions in the same collections. For a wider look at diamond necklace styles beyond the tennis line, read our diamond necklaces guide.

Care and checks

Clean diamond and sapphire necklaces with warm water, a little mild soap and a soft brush, then rinse and dry. Lay the necklace flat to store it, and never fold it tightly, since sharp bends strain the hinges. Check the clasp from time to time, and if you wear the piece daily, have a jeweller inspect the settings once a year.

Buying a Suzanne Kalan tennis necklace at Coveti

Suzanne Kalan has been making jewellery since 1988, and every piece is handcrafted and made in America. Coveti carries 108 of her tennis necklaces, all 100% authentic. We are based in London and ship worldwide. If you want to know more about the designer herself, read who is Suzanne Kalan, and to browse every collection, go to the Suzanne Kalan brand page.

Frequently asked questions

What is a tennis necklace?

A tennis necklace is a flexible necklace made from a continuous line of individually set stones, usually diamonds of similar size. Each stone sits in its own hinged setting, so the necklace lies flat round the neck. It takes its name and construction from the tennis bracelet, and works with both casual and evening clothes.

What length should a tennis necklace be?

Sixteen inches is the classic length, sitting at the base of the neck, while 18 inches falls just below the collarbone and works under shirt collars. Most Suzanne Kalan tennis necklaces run 16 to 18 inches and many are adjustable. Longer 36 inch versions can be doubled at the throat for a two-row look.

How much does a diamond tennis necklace cost?

It depends on carat weight, stone size, cut and metal. At Coveti, Suzanne Kalan tennis necklaces start at around $25,680 and the median is around $60,370. A Linear Half Diamond Tennis Necklace with 1.75 carats is around $32,440, and the Princess Milli Half Diamond with 12.75 carats is around $132,400.

What is the difference between a half and a full tennis necklace?

A full tennis necklace has stones all the way round, while a half tennis necklace sets stones along only part of the line. Half designs weigh and cost less. In the Suzanne Kalan Linear collection, the half diamond version has 1.75 carats and the full version 4.10 carats, roughly 30% more in price.

Can you wear a tennis necklace every day?

Yes, a diamond tennis necklace is suited to daily wear, since diamond is 10 on the Mohs scale and sapphire 9. Take it off to sleep, swim and exercise, store it flat, and check the clasp regularly. Emerald versions need gentler handling, because emerald is more brittle and should not go in an ultrasonic cleaner.

Are sapphire tennis necklaces cheaper than diamond ones?

Usually, yes, carat for carat. The Suzanne Kalan Bold Rainbow Sapphire Tennis Necklace holds 17.31 carats for around $60,370 at Coveti, while the Bold Diamond Tennis Necklace with 9.70 carats is around $111,820. Sapphire is also hard enough for everyday wear, which makes it a practical way to get more scale.