Brands we love, Buying Guide, Fashion

Who Is Suzanne Kalan? The Designer Behind the Fireworks Baguette

Brands we love, Buying Guide, Fashion

Who Is Suzanne Kalan? The Designer Behind the Fireworks Baguette

If you have ever caught a ring across a room because the light seemed to scatter off it in several directions at once, there is a good chance it was Suzanne Kalan. Her house is now one of the largest names in our fine jewellery edit, with 2,655 pieces in stock, and the easiest way in is something small like the Classic Diamond Eva Studs in 18K Yellow Gold, around $2,160 at Coveti. See every house we carry in the Coveti designer index.

So, who is Suzanne Kalan? She is a fine jewellery designer whose house has made jewellery since 1988. Every piece is handcrafted and, in the brand’s own words, proudly made in America. She is credited by the brand with redefining how baguette-cut diamonds are used, and with the Fireworks design, where baguettes sit at offset, scattered angles so each stone catches light on its own.

Everything else follows from that one idea. Get your head round Fireworks and the rest of the catalogue starts to make sense, even the collections that look nothing like it.

A family house, more than 35 years in

The brand describes itself as founded over 35 years ago by designer Suzanne Kalan. It is also a family business. Patile Kalan was born into the family of jewellers and grew up working beside her parents, which the house sums up under the heading “It’s Generational”. I like that. Plenty of houses reinvent themselves every few seasons. This one has spent decades refining a single cut.

You won’t find a list of famous wearers here. The brand doesn’t trade on one, and I’m not going to invent one. The cut does the talking.

The Fireworks setting, in plain English

A baguette is a long rectangular step cut. Traditionally it plays a supporting role: two neat baguettes flanking a round centre stone, lined up perfectly straight. Suzanne Kalan made the baguette the point. In the Fireworks arrangement the baguettes become the main event, and they are set at slightly different angles to one another, a little like matchsticks dropped on a table and caught mid-scatter.

A step cut has long, flat facets that behave like little mirrors. Line ten of them up at the same angle and they flash together, then go dark together. Tilt each one a fraction and they flash in turn as your hand moves. The piece never quite sits still. It is also why a slim band can look much livelier than its width.

You can see it most clearly in the Classic Diamond Mini Tennis Bracelet in 18K Yellow Gold, around $30,970 at Coveti, where the scattered baguettes run all the way round the wrist. I have written a much deeper explainer on the cut itself in our guide to Suzanne Kalan Fireworks baguette jewellery, which is worth reading if you are weighing up a first diamond piece.

The collections, one by one

This is where people get lost, because the house works in a lot of collections and the names do not always tell you what to expect. Here is my cheat sheet, based on the product copy.

Classic Diamond and Classic Gold

The home of the Fireworks setting. White diamond baguettes, solid 18 carat gold, the look most people picture when they hear the name. Studs start at around $2,160 and the line runs up to tennis necklaces and full pave cuffs.

Amalfi

Baguette gemstones lined edge to edge, in a huge spread of colours and ombre gradients. Every Amalfi piece we stock is in 14 carat gold, which keeps prices lower. The Amalfi Half Band in 14K Yellow Gold, Citrine is around $2,690 at Coveti. If colour is your thing, our Suzanne Kalan Amalfi guide goes through every type and shade.

Bold, Frenzy and Shimmer

Three twists on the baguette. Bold uses larger-scale baguettes and is designed to be flexible. Frenzy sets its baguettes at deliberately uneven angles, a wilder version of Fireworks; the Frenzy Diamond Ring in 18K White Gold is around $3,340 at Coveti. Shimmer keeps the Fireworks arrangement and adds round diamonds for extra sparkle between the long stones.

Princess and Golden Age

Both move to princess-cut stones, the square brilliant. Princess sets them offset; Golden Age (listed as Golden in our catalogue) shows more polished gold around them. The Princess Mini Studs in 18K Yellow Gold are around $4,810 at Coveti.

Nadima

Mixed-cut gemstones with round diamonds, and one of the collections that includes 14 carat gold. The Nadima White Topaz Bar Studs in 14K Yellow Gold are around $3,500 at Coveti.

La Fantaisie, Evil Eye and Infinite

The more symbolic side of the house. La Fantaisie is stars and celestial shapes; the La Fantaisie Star Diamond Studs in 18K Yellow Gold are around $8,340 at Coveti. Evil Eye is the protective eye motif, a sapphire centre with diamonds, as in the Evil Eye Mini Pendant in 18K Yellow Gold, Pink Sapphire, around $5,100. Infinite strings gemstone beads with diamond rondelles and finishes on a pave S-hook clasp; the Infinite Gemstone & Gold Rondelle Pendant in 18K Rose Gold, Rainbow Sapphire is around $5,400.

Block-Chain, Inlay and Gilded

The gold-forward pieces. Block-Chain is solid gold links with set stones, starting with the Block-Chain Thin Bracelet in 18K Yellow Gold at around $4,810. Inlay sets stones flush into polished gold, so nothing sits proud to catch on a jumper. Gilded is hand-shaped, softly hammered gold inspired by earlier eras, and the Gilded Diamond Midi Hoops in 18K White Gold at around $15,980 show it off well.

Thin Mix, Short Stack and Linear

The stackers and the tennis lines. Thin Mix is slim stacking bands. Short Stack sets vertical baguettes above a row of round diamonds, a lovely detail on the Short Stack Diamond Eternity Band in 18K Yellow Gold, around $18,920. Linear is a fluid tennis line of aligned baguettes, the calmest look in the whole catalogue; the Linear Diamond Tennis Bracelet in 18K Rose Gold is around $20,100 at Coveti.

Metals and stones

Suzanne Kalan works in solid 14 carat and 18 carat gold, in yellow, rose and white. If you are unsure of the difference, 18 carat is 75% pure gold and 14 carat is 58.5%, so 18 carat carries more gold and a deeper colour, while 14 carat keeps the price lower. White gold is usually rhodium plated, which gives that bright, cool finish and may need re-plating after some years of daily wear.

The stones go well beyond white diamonds. You will see round and baguette diamonds, rainbow sapphires (sapphires in many natural colours set together), pastel sapphires, pink, light blue, dark blue and black sapphires, emeralds, rubies, white topaz, citrine and rainbow moonstone. Then there are the ombre pieces, where the colour shifts gradually from one end of the piece to the other in blue, red, green and black.

On wear: sapphire is corundum and scores 9 on the Mohs scale, just below diamond at 10, so sapphire pieces are good everyday choices. Emerald sits at 7.5 to 8 and is more brittle, so treat emerald rings with a little more care, avoid knocks and keep them away from ultrasonic cleaners.

What it costs

Prices cover a huge range, so a first piece needn’t be a stretch. These are the figures across our 2,655 Suzanne Kalan pieces.

Category From Typical (median) Up to
Rings (730) $2,020 $6,280 $105,940
Earrings (708) $1,080 $3,930 $64,780
Necklaces (654) $1,400 $6,870 $132,400
Bracelets (563) $4,630 $28,920 $202,080

A few useful landmarks inside those numbers: half bands start at $2,020 with a median of $3,340, studs at $1,080 with a median of $3,500, and tennis bracelets from $11,860 with a median of $36,560. Bangles start at $10,690. The cheapest route into the look is 14 carat Amalfi and Nadima; the top end is the diamond tennis necklaces and full pave pieces.

Sizing before you buy

Rings are in US sizes, from 4 to 11 including quarter sizes, though most styles come in 6 to 7.5. If you wear a UK size, convert before you choose and measure the finger you plan to wear it on, at the end of the day when fingers are slightly larger. Half bands are the easier buy here: because the stones run across the top only, they can usually be resized, and they sit more comfortably next to other rings.

Bangles come in Small, Medium and Large. A bangle should slip over the hand with a little resistance and then move freely without sliding far down towards your knuckles. The Inlay Pink Sapphire Bangle in 18K Rose Gold, around $24,800 at Coveti, is a good example of the shape. Tennis bracelets are mostly 7 inches, and necklaces run 16 to 18 inches, with many of them adjustable.

How I would start a Suzanne Kalan collection

Choose the cut before anything else. If the scattered Fireworks sparkle is what drew you in, start with Classic Diamond studs and add a half band later. If you love colour, Amalfi lets you try a shade for a few thousand dollars before you commit to sapphires in 18 carat. And if you already own a lot of plain gold, a single Block-Chain bracelet will sit happily beside it.

Rings are where the house is strongest, and they are easy to wear together. Try a Thin Mix band beside a Short Stack eternity, then add a Frenzy ring on the next finger. It looks considered. It isn’t hard. I have gone through the full vs half question in more detail in our eternity rings guide, and if you are wondering how this house compares with others you may be looking at, read brands like Suzanne Kalan.

Everything we sell is 100% authentic, we are based in London and ship worldwide, and returns follow the Coveti returns policy. You can browse the full range on the Suzanne Kalan brand page.

Frequently asked questions

Who is Suzanne Kalan?

Suzanne Kalan is a fine jewellery designer whose house has made jewellery since 1988. The brand credits her with redefining the use of baguette-cut diamonds and with the Fireworks design, where baguettes sit at scattered angles. It is a family business, every piece is handcrafted, and the brand says each one is proudly made in America.

Where is Suzanne Kalan jewellery made?

Suzanne Kalan jewellery is made in America, and every piece is handcrafted. The brand describes its work as “proudly made in America”. It is set in solid 14 carat and 18 carat gold in yellow, rose and white, with round and baguette diamonds plus a wide range of coloured sapphires, emeralds, rubies, topaz, citrine and moonstone.

What is the Suzanne Kalan Fireworks setting?

Fireworks is the house signature: baguette-cut stones set at offset, scattered angles rather than in a straight line. Because each long step-cut stone faces a slightly different way, each one catches light independently, so the piece flashes as you move. You will find it across Classic Diamond, Classic Gold and Shimmer, with Frenzy pushing the angles further.

Is Suzanne Kalan jewellery real gold?

Yes, Suzanne Kalan uses solid gold, in 14 carat and 18 carat, in yellow, rose and white. 18 carat is 75% pure gold and 14 carat is 58.5%. At Coveti, the Amalfi and Nadima collections are 14 carat, which keeps prices lower, while Classic, Bold, Princess, Inlay and most other collections are 18 carat.

How much does Suzanne Kalan jewellery cost?

At Coveti, Suzanne Kalan starts at around $1,080 for 14 carat Amalfi studs and reaches $202,080 for the largest bracelets. Typical prices are about $3,930 for earrings, $6,280 for rings and $6,870 for necklaces. Half bands start at $2,020, and diamond tennis bracelets begin at $11,860, with a median of $36,560.

What ring sizes does Suzanne Kalan make?

Suzanne Kalan rings come in US sizes 4 to 11, including quarter sizes, and most styles are offered from 6 to 7.5. Convert your UK size to US before ordering. Half bands are usually the easier choice when you are unsure, because they have stones across the top only and can typically be resized.

Which Suzanne Kalan collection is best for a first piece?

For a first piece, Classic Diamond studs are the purest taste of the Fireworks look, starting at around $2,160 at Coveti. If you prefer colour, an Amalfi half band in 14 carat gold starts at around $2,450. Both are easy to wear daily and work as the start of a stack you build over time.