How to Wear Balloon Pants: Length, Tops, Shoes, Proportion

Balloon pants look best when the top is closer fitting and the shoe is slim, so the volume in the leg reads as intentional rather than oversized. Let the gathered hem sit at the ankle bone, choose a fitted tank, a cami, a bodysuit and a tucked in shirt on top, and finish with a ballet flat, a slim sandal and a pointed mule. One volume per outfit is the rule that makes them work at any height.

Balloon pants, barrel pants and bloomer shorts all share the same idea: fullness through the leg, pulled back in at the hem. They are comfortable, cool in summer and surprisingly easy once you get the proportions right. Below is what balloon pants are, how long they should be, which tops and shoes to wear, how to adjust the proportions for your height, and how to wear the shorter bloomer version. The examples come from Posse, the Australian womenswear label, which cuts several soft, elasticated balloon pants with gathered ankles in cotton, cotton silk and Tencel.

What are balloon pants?

Balloon pants are trousers that are full through the hip and leg and gathered back in at the ankle, so the fabric billows out in a rounded, sculptural shape. Most have an elasticated waist, and the balloon is formed at the hem by a cuff, a tie and a drawstring, depending on the style.

The Beau Pant in Buttermilk is a textbook example: an elasticated waist, a balloon silhouette and a gathered ankle in cotton, fully lined in cotton voile. The Pearl Pants in Black follow the same shape in a cotton and silk blend, with gathered ankle ties that let you adjust the hem.

What is the difference between balloon pants and barrel pants?

Barrel pants, also called barrel leg trousers, curve out through the knee and taper toward a narrower hem, usually in a structured fabric such as denim and twill, so the leg looks like a rounded barrel. Balloon pants are softer and fuller, often elasticated, and gathered at the ankle rather than tapered.

How long should balloon pants be?

Balloon pants should end at the ankle bone, ideally just above it, so the gathered hem sits on the narrowest part of the leg and a little skin shows above the shoe. Any longer and the hem collapses onto the foot and the shape is lost; any shorter and they start to read as capris.

• Use the ties. Pants with gathered ankle ties, like the Pearl Pants and the Cleo Pant in Seafoam, let you set the hem exactly where you want it.
• Check with your shoes on. Try them with the shoe you plan to wear most, since a heel changes where the hem falls.
• Petite tip. If the hem pools, tie the ankle a little tighter and push the gather up a touch, so the volume ends higher on the leg.

What tops go with balloon pants?

The simplest rule is volume below, fit above. A close fitting top shows the waist and gives the eye a narrow point, which makes the fullness of the leg look deliberate.

1. A fitted cami. The Cleo Cami in Seafoam, with softly structured cups, lace detailing, adjustable straps and a scalloped hem, is cut to match the Cleo Pant. Worn together they make a lace trimmed set for summer evenings.
2. A bodysuit and a fitted tank. Both keep the waist smooth and clean under an elasticated waistband.
3. A tucked in shirt. A crisp cotton shirt, half tucked with the sleeves rolled, turns balloon pants into office wear.
4. A short knit. A cropped cardigan buttoned as a top works in cooler weather; our guide on how to style a cardigan has the shapes that suit.
5. A strapless top. Bare shoulders balance a full leg well, especially with a close fitting knit tube.

Can you wear volume on volume?

Yes, when the top and the pants come from the same fabric. A matching set reads as one shape, so the volume looks intentional. The Harriet Pant in Vintage White, a relaxed balloon pant in all over embroidered cotton with a ribbon drawstring at the hem, matches the Harriet Boat Neck Top, a boxy top with a gathered neckline and a drawstring tied at the shoulder. Worn together with flat sandals, they look like a soft summer jumpsuit. The pant is unlined and semi sheer, so wear seamless, skin tone underwear. For more on wearing sets, read how to style a matching set.

What shoes go with balloon pants?

Slim, low profile shoes work best because they show the ankle and let the gathered hem stand out. Heavy, chunky shoes compete with the volume.

Browse designer flats and designer mules for the slimmer shapes that suit a gathered hem.

What body type do balloon pants suit?

Balloon pants suit every body type when the proportions are adjusted. The trick is to control where the volume starts and stops.

• Petite. Choose a softer, less exaggerated balloon and a high rise, then wear a short fitted top and a pointed shoe. Matching the shoe to the pant colour also adds length.
• Tall. You can carry the fullest shapes and flat shoes with ease. Try a longer top, untucked, for a relaxed line.
• Curvy. Pick a fluid fabric that drapes rather than stands away, and tuck a fitted top in so the waist shows.
• Straight figure. The volume adds shape at the hip; a fitted cami and a belt complete it. Our guide on how to wear a chain belt shows how to wear one over an elasticated waist.

How do you wear balloon pants by colour?

Neutral balloon pants are the easiest starting point. The Beau Pant comes in Buttermilk, Grey and Black; the Beau Pant in Black is the most flexible for evening, worn with a black cami and a strappy sandal. The Tabitha Balloon Pant in Buttermilk, in Tencel with lace detailing at the side seams, is softer and works with white, tan and pale pink. Colour, like the seafoam Cleo, is best kept tonal with a matching top.

How do you wear bloomer shorts?

Bloomer shorts are short, full shorts gathered back in at the leg opening, the summer cousin of balloon pants. They work with the same rule: fitted on top, simple shoes below.

• In gingham. The Lila Short in Blue Gingham is a bloomer style short with a high rise waist and side seam pockets. Wear it with a fitted white tee and flat sandals. More ideas in our guide on how to wear gingham.
• With ties at the hem. The Rosie Short in Rose Gingham is a bloomer style short with a cuffed hem and adjustable side ties, so you can tighten the leg for a rounder shape.
• Dressed up. Pair bloomer shorts with a silk cami, a slim heeled sandal and a small bag for a summer evening.

Shorter shapes are all in the designer shorts edit.

How do you wear balloon pants for work, weekends and evenings?

• Work. Black balloon pants, a tucked white shirt, a fine belt and pointed mules.
• Weekend. Buttermilk balloon pants, a striped tee and sneakers.
• Holiday. A balloon pant set in white cotton with flat sandals and a straw hat.
• Evening. Black balloon pants with a fitted cami, a strappy sandal and gold earrings.

Capri pants follow similar proportion rules with a slimmer leg; our guide to how to style capri pants covers the shoe pairings. Browse more silhouettes in the designer pants edit.

A note on fit

Posse sizes run in letter sizes XXS to XXL, and the brand describes the balloon pants in this guide as fitting true to size. Because the waists are elasticated, your usual size will give the intended fullness in the leg. The full range is on the Posse brand page.

Frequently asked questions

How long should balloon pants be?

Balloon pants should end at the ankle bone, ideally just above it, so the gathered hem sits on the narrowest part of the leg. Pants with ankle ties let you adjust the length.

What do you wear on top with balloon pants?

Choose a fitted top such as a cami, a bodysuit, a tank and a tucked in shirt, so the waist shows and the volume in the leg looks deliberate. A matching top in the same fabric also works.

What shoes go with balloon pants?

Slim shoes that show the ankle work best: ballet flats, pointed mules, strappy sandals, kitten heels and low profile sneakers.

What body type do balloon pants look good on?

Balloon pants suit every body type when the proportions are adjusted. Petite frames do best with a softer balloon and a high rise, and curvy frames with a fluid fabric and a tucked in top.

What is the difference between balloon pants and barrel pants?

Barrel pants curve out at the knee and taper to the hem, usually in denim and twill. Balloon pants are softer and fuller, often elasticated, and gathered at the ankle.

How do you style bloomer shorts?

Wear bloomer shorts with a fitted top and simple flat sandals by day. For evening, add a silk cami and a slim heeled sandal.