What Is Jacquard Fabric? How It Is Woven, How to Spot It, and How to Care for It

The short answer: jacquard is any fabric whose pattern is woven into the cloth on a Jacquard loom, rather than printed on top. Each warp thread is lifted on its own, so the loom can weave flowers, figures and lettering directly into the structure, and the design shows on both sides. It is why a jacquard feels textured and looks richer than a print. A good example is the floral double-dye jacquard on the Dries Van Noten Jacquard slip dress in Light Green and the Jacquard cocoon top in Ocra. Browse more in our designer dresses and the Dries Van Noten collection.

Jacquard is not a fibre. Silk, cotton, wool, viscose, polyester and lurex can all be woven as jacquard, along with any other yarn the loom can carry. The word describes how the cloth is made. That is why you see jacquard on everything from knitwear and swimwear to evening dresses and sneakers.

Where the name comes from

Joseph Marie Jacquard, a weaver in Lyon, patented a loom attachment in 1804 that used a chain of punched cards to control which warp threads lifted for each pass of the shuttle. Before it, complex patterns needed a second worker, the draw boy, to pull threads by hand. Jacquard’s cards made patterned weaving faster and repeatable, and the idea of storing instructions on punched cards went on to influence early computing. Modern looms use electronic controls, but the principle is the same.

Key facts

• Pattern: woven into the fabric, not printed on and not embroidered on.
• Fibre: any. Silk, cotton, wool, viscose and synthetics are all common.
• Feel: usually slightly raised, with a matte and shine contrast between motif and ground.
• Reverse side: shows the pattern in reverse colours, a quick way to tell it from a print.
• Weight: from light silk jacquard for dresses to heavy upholstery cloth.

Jacquard vs brocade vs damask vs print

What is double-dye jacquard?

A jacquard woven from two yarns that take dye differently, here viscose and polyester. The cloth is woven first, then dyed, and each yarn takes the colour its own way, so the pattern appears in two tones from a single dye bath. On the Dries Van Noten pieces it gives a green ground with ochre flowers, the kind of slightly faded richness that looks like an old tapestry. Read more about the house’s fabrics in Dries Van Noten materials and care.

How to tell if something is jacquard

1. Turn it over. A jacquard shows the pattern on the back, often in reversed colours. A print is pale on the reverse.
2. Run a finger over it. The motif usually sits slightly raised from the ground.
3. Look at the edge of the motif. Woven edges step in tiny squares; printed edges are smooth.
4. Read the label. Brands name it, because it costs more to make.

How to care for jacquard

Follow the fibre, not the weave. Silk and viscose jacquards prefer a cool hand wash, the delicate cycle at 30 degrees at most, then drying on a hanger. Wool jacquard knits want a wool wash and drying flat. Avoid wringing: long floating threads can snag. Store dresses on padded hangers and press on the reverse with a cloth. For anything with metallic yarn, see our guide to what lurex is.

Our picks

1. Dries Van Noten Jacquard slip dress in Light Green

Floral double-dye jacquard in viscose and polyester, cut as a loose midi slip with a V neck. Wear it over a fine knit now and alone in spring.

2. Dries Van Noten Jacquard cocoon top in Ocra

The same jacquard in ochre and purple, cut as a lined cocoon top with elasticated sleeves and waist.

3. Versace Jacquard Silk Crêpe Satin Midi Dress in Yellow

Silk crêpe satin with the motif woven in tone on tone, the damask side of jacquard.

4. St. Agni Silk Wool Jacquard Cami in Black

A silk and wool jacquard cami, black on black, that shows how subtle the weave can be.

5. Moncler Moose Jacquard Alpaca and Wool Blend Jumper in Light Beige

Jacquard knitting rather than weaving: the motif is knitted in, the way most patterned sweaters are made.

6. Max Mara Trionfo Jacquard Wool and Alpaca Skirt in Ecru

A wool and alpaca jacquard skirt in ecru, for texture without colour.

Frequently asked questions

Is jacquard a good quality fabric?

Generally, yes. Weaving the pattern in takes more yarn and machine time than printing, so jacquards are usually denser and more durable than printed cloth of the same fibre.

Is jacquard natural fabric?

It depends on the yarn. Jacquard describes the weave, so it can be silk, cotton, wool, viscose, polyester and blends of these.

Does jacquard shrink?

Cotton, viscose and wool jacquards can shrink if washed hot. Wash cool, on a delicate cycle, and dry flat.

What is the difference between jacquard and brocade?

Brocade is a type of jacquard with extra threads floating on the surface, usually metallic. All brocade is jacquard; not all jacquard is brocade.

Is jacquard good for summer?

Light silk, cotton and viscose jacquards are fine in warm weather. Heavy wool and upholstery-weight jacquards belong to winter.

Why is jacquard expensive?

The loom is slower, the pattern needs programming, and the cloth uses more yarn. Designer houses often have their jacquards woven to order.