The Yves Salomon Army Parka Guide: Fur Trims, Linings and Length

The Yves Salomon Army parka is the Paris fur house’s city version of the military parka, a line the brand says it launched in 2005 by reworking vintage parkas. Today’s Army styles pair a waterproof cotton blend shell with a detachable fox fur hood trim and a removable sheared rabbit lining with down-filled sleeves. At Coveti they start from $2,630 for the short cut.

Key facts

• Line: the Army collection, launched in 2005 according to Yves Salomon, built from vintage parkas reworked for the city.
• House: the Salomon family emigrated to France in 1920 and became Paris furriers; the brand says Maison Yves Salomon was born in 1980.
• Shell: 72% cotton and 28% polyamide, described by the brand as waterproof and storm-resistant.
• Fur: a detachable fox fur hood trim and a removable sheared rabbit body lining.
• Insulation: the lining has down-filled sleeves (95% duck down, 5% duck feathers), and the product descriptions rate the parkas to minus 10 degrees Celsius.
• Lengths: a short boxy parka, a short flared parka with a fishtail back and a long flared parka.
• Price at Coveti: from $2,630 (short) to $3,040 (long), with shipping worldwide by DHL Express and FedEx International Priority.

What is the Yves Salomon Army parka?

Yves Salomon is a fur house first. The family story starts with Grégory Salomon, who built a fur business before the family settled in France in 1920, and his son Boris later became president of the International Fur Federation. The Army line was the house’s answer to a simple question: how do you wear fur on a Tuesday? The brand says it took vintage military parkas and reworked them for the city in 2005, putting the fur inside, where it warms you, and around the hood, where it frames the face.

That formula has barely changed, and it is the reason the parka is still the piece most people picture when they hear the name. The outside is a practical cotton blend in khaki, beige, grey, brown and black. The inside is where the money goes. A sheared rabbit lining zips out of the body, and a fox fur trim clips off the hood. Take both away and you have a light parka for autumn rain. Put them back and you have a proper winter coat.

Shoppers also call it the YS Army parka, the fur hood parka and the fur-lined parka. Coveti’s product descriptions name the YS Army Collection on the short boxy parka, the short flared parka and the ultra-light down jacket with curly lambskin trim, which takes the same idea into a lighter down piece.

Which Yves Salomon parkas are on Coveti now?

The new delivery brings three Army cuts in several colours, plus two technical parkas lined in lambskin shearling and the reversible mink parka. Here is how they compare, using the brand’s own composition data.

Coveti also carries earlier seasons of the long and short iconic parkas, such as the Long Iconic parka in waterproof cotton blend with fox and rabbit fur and the Short Iconic parka, while stock lasts.

Fox, rabbit and shearling: how the linings work

Every Army parka in this delivery uses two furs for two jobs. Fox goes on the hood because it is long and dense, so it blocks wind around the face. Rabbit goes in the body because, sheared short, it is light and soft and does not add bulk under the shell. The sleeves of the lining are filled with duck down instead of fur, which keeps the arms slim enough to move.

Both pieces are removable. The hood trim detaches on its own, and the rabbit lining comes out as one piece. That gives you three versions of the coat: shell only for wet autumn days, shell and lining for cold dry weather, and the full parka with hood trim for real winter. It also makes the fur easier to look after, because the lining can go to a furrier for cleaning and summer storage without the shell. Our fur and shearling care guide covers both.

If you would rather not wear fur, look at the two technical parkas instead. The Shirt-Collar Waterproof Parka and the Short Hooded Waterproof Parka use lambskin shearling, which is a sheepskin with the wool left on, for the collar and a removable bib, with a quilted lining underneath and polyester padding. For the house’s position on sourcing, including the Furmark label and the fur-free Météo line, read Does Yves Salomon use real fur?

Short versus long: which length to buy

The short Army parkas sit around the hip. The boxy version has a waist drawstring, so you can wear it straight and loose, then pull it in when you want a shape. The short iconic parka is flared with a fishtail back that covers the seat. Both are the better buy if you drive, cycle and wear a lot of trousers, and they look right with jeans, flat boots and a chunky knit.

The long iconic parka falls to the knee, so it covers skirts and dresses and keeps your thighs warm on a long walk. It has drawstrings at the waist, the hem and the hood, which lets you pull the hem in against wind. Choose it if you walk to work, live somewhere properly cold and want one coat for the whole season. It is the more formal of the two and sits better over tailoring.

A simple rule: if most of your winter is spent between the car, the office and a restaurant, buy short. If most of it is spent on foot, buy long.

How does an Yves Salomon parka fit over layers?

A parka has to go over things, and the Army cut is built for it. The removable lining is the useful detail here. With the lining in, you have room for a fine merino jumper and a shirt. With the lining out, the shell takes a thick cashmere knit underneath. The drawstrings at the waist and hem then pull the extra volume back into shape, so the coat does not look like a tent.

Check the shoulders first. The parka should close without pulling across the back when you cross your arms, with your thickest knit on. The sleeve should reach the base of the thumb, since down-filled lining sleeves sit slightly higher on the arm once the lining is in. If you sit between two sizes and plan to wear heavy knits all winter, the larger size is usually the safer choice for an outer layer, but check the measurements on each product page. Our Yves Salomon size guide converts French sizes to UK and US.

To build a layered look, start with a knit, add wide trousers, and finish with boots that have a ridged sole. The parka does the rest.

How warm is an Yves Salomon parka?

We only quote what the brand states in its product descriptions. The short boxy Army parka is described as tested to minus 10 degrees, and the iconic short and long parkas are rated to minus 10 degrees Celsius. The shell is described as storm-resistant and waterproof. Those figures assume the full parka, with the lining and hood trim in place.

In practice, a parka feels different from a down jacket. The cotton shell and fur lining are heavier and quieter, and they handle drizzle and wind well, but a full down coat is lighter for the same warmth. If you want maximum warmth for minimum weight, read our guide to Yves Salomon puffer and down jackets. If you want a coat that looks like a coat and lasts many winters, the parka is the one.

The Yves Salomon parkas to buy now

1. Long Iconic Parka with Fox and Rabbit Fur in Beige

The classic long Army shape with a fishtail back, a concealed zip and two flap pockets. Beige is the lightest colour and the easiest to wear with camel and cream knits. From $3,040.

2. Long Iconic Parka with Fox and Rabbit Fur in Dark Khaki

The same parka in the colour closest to the original military idea. It hides city dirt well and works with black and brown. From $3,040.

3. Short Iconic Waterproof Cotton Parka with Fox and Rabbit Fur in Grey

Hip length and flared, with drawstrings at the hem, hood and waist. The grey shell is a quieter choice than khaki. From $2,790.

4. Short Cotton Parka with Fox and Rabbit Fur in Black

The boxy Army cut, which can be cinched at the waist. Black is the smartest version and the one to choose for evenings. From $2,630.

5. Shirt-Collar Waterproof Parka with Lambskin Shearling in Dark Brown

A fur-free option with a 3-layer technical shell, a Merino lambskin collar and a removable quilted lining. A drawstring shapes the back waist. From $2,570.

6. Short Hooded Waterproof Parka with Lambskin Shearling in Dark Brown

Short and hooded, with a removable Merinillo bib over a quilted lining. Good for wet cities. From $2,790.

7. Short Ultra-Light Down Jacket with Curly Lambskin Trim in Green

From the YS Army Collection, filled with down and trimmed in braided curly lambskin. The lightest way into the Army look. From $1,840.

8. Reversible Technical Parka with Mink Fur in Black

Two coats in one: water-repellent technical fabric on one face and long-haired mink on the other. The investment version of the parka. From $15,920.

Finish the look with a Technical Fabric Ushanka with Fox Fur, Fox Fur Earmuffs and the Lace-Up Mid-Length Shearling Boots. More in our fur accessories guide.

Frequently asked questions

When did Yves Salomon launch the Army parka?

According to Yves Salomon, the Army collection launched in 2005. The house took vintage military parkas and reworked them for city wear, adding fur linings and fur hood trims. The line still uses that idea today, with a cotton blend shell, a removable sheared rabbit lining and a detachable fox fur hood trim.

Is the fur on an Yves Salomon Army parka real?

Yes. The Army parkas on Coveti list 100% fox for the hood trim and 100% rabbit for the body lining. Both pieces are removable. If you want a parka without fur, the Shirt-Collar Waterproof Parka and the Short Hooded Waterproof Parka use lambskin shearling instead.

How warm is an Yves Salomon Army parka?

The brand’s product descriptions rate the iconic short and long parkas to minus 10 degrees Celsius, and describe the short boxy parka as tested to minus 10 degrees. That is with the rabbit lining and fox hood trim in place. Take them out and the shell works as a light rain parka.

Short versus long: which Yves Salomon parka should I buy?

Buy the short parka if you drive, wear trousers most days and want a sporty look. Buy the long parka if you walk a lot, wear skirts and dresses, and live somewhere cold. Most people only need one, and the long version covers more situations.

Can you remove the lining of an Yves Salomon parka?

Yes. On the Army parkas the sheared rabbit lining, with its down-filled sleeves, comes out, and the fox fur hood trim detaches separately. That gives three weights of coat from one parka, and it lets you send the fur parts for cleaning and storage on their own.

Does Coveti ship Yves Salomon parkas worldwide?

Yes. Coveti ships worldwide by DHL Express and FedEx International Priority. Orders ship Delivered Duty Unpaid, so import duties and taxes are usually payable on arrival in your country. Check the product page for sizes in stock before you order.

See every style on the Yves Salomon brand page, compare it with shearling in our Yves Salomon shearling coats guide, and read who Yves Salomon is for the full family history.