Men’s Cashmere Cardigan: How to Wear It as a Jacket and With Tailoring

A men’s cashmere cardigan is the most useful knit a man can own in winter: worn open over a shirt it does the work of a soft jacket, and closed under tailoring it adds a layer without bulk. The new Brunello Cucinelli menswear at Coveti includes a navy cardigan in 100% cashmere, and our men’s knitwear edit carries the styles that sit beside it.

What makes a cashmere cardigan worth buying?

Cashmere gives softness and loft at a low weight. That matters more in a cardigan than in a crew neck, because a cardigan is a layering piece: it has to sit under a coat sleeve, over a collar and inside a blazer without turning the silhouette into a stack of fabric. A good one keeps its shape at the cuffs and hem, drapes at the front and looks better after a season of wear, not worse.

Brunello Cucinelli is a sensible place to start. The Italian house was founded in 1978 on women’s knitwear in coloured cashmere, so knit is its oldest language, and menswear is now a core part of the range. Our guide to Brunello Cucinelli menswear covers the whole men’s line; the short version is that the tailoring and the knitwear are designed to be worn together. The Cashmere cardigan in Navy Blue comes from the brand’s men’s Winter Edit, is 100% cashmere and, like every piece we list from the house, is made in Italy. If you want the wider story of the fibre at Brunello Cucinelli, our piece on Brunello Cucinelli cashmere goes deeper.

Which cardigan styles should a man know?

The word covers more ground than most men realise. Before you buy, decide which job the cardigan will do, because the style follows the job.

• The fine-gauge button cardigan. Thin, close to the body, usually a V neck. It is the one to wear under a blazer, where it behaves like a knitted waistcoat.
• The heavier cardigan. More body, a deeper rib at the hem and cuffs. This is the cardigan that replaces a jacket indoors and on a cool evening.
• The zip cardigan. Sportier and easy to throw on. Moncler builds this idea into a quilted hybrid with the Padded Wool Zip-Up Cardigan in Light Brown, which sits halfway between knit and jacket.
• The patterned cardigan. Cable, Fair Isle and Norwegian motifs belong to the country end of the wardrobe. Herno’s Wool and Cashmere Cardigan with Norwegian Pattern in Bordeaux is a good example, best with cords and boots.

For more on the Moncler approach to knitwear, read our edit of Moncler cardigans and knitwear for men. If you are still deciding between a cardigan and a pullover, our men’s cashmere sweater guide compares crew necks, roll necks, half zips and polos.

How do you wear a cashmere cardigan as a jacket?

The trick is to treat it with the same discipline as a jacket. The shoulder seam should land on your shoulder bone, the sleeve should end at the wrist bone, and the hem should finish around the top of the trouser pocket. Too long and it reads as loungewear; too short and it looks shrunk.

Then dress around it as you would a soft blazer. A crisp collar under a navy cardigan is the cleanest version: the Sea Island cotton shirt in White gives you the contrast, and the Gabardine trousers in White turn it into a winter whites look that feels considered rather than casual. Finish with the Textured suede Derbys in Milk and you have an outfit for a long lunch, a gallery and a dinner that does not ask for a tie.

For a softer weekend version, swap the shirt for the jersey mock neck T-shirt in dark grey. The mock neck fills the opening of the cardigan without the formality of a collar, which is why it works so well with knitwear.

Can you wear a cardigan under a blazer?

Yes, and it is one of the more elegant ways to dress for cold weather. Keep the cardigan fine and close to the body, because anything chunky will push the jacket off its shoulder line. Button it, wear a shirt and tie under it, and let the cardigan show in the opening of the jacket like a waistcoat.

Brunello Cucinelli’s tailoring makes the case well. The Chalk stripe flannel Tailor blazer in Dark Grey is one-and-a-half-breasted, the brand’s term for a closure between single and double breasted, with a structured shoulder and a slightly longer line, a shape that sits well over a fine knit. Add the silk diagonal tie in Panama and the navy cardigan, grey chalk stripe and warm tie make a palette that feels very Solomeo. Our guide to the chalk stripe suit has more ways to break that jacket into separates, and old money style for men shows where the cardigan fits in that look.

Cashmere, wool and blends: what is the difference?

Price varies in cardigans for the same reasons it does in sweaters: the fibre, the yarn and the make. Here is how the cardigans in our men’s edit compare on fibre, using the composition stated on each product.

Pure cashmere is the softest and the most refined against a shirt. Wool and cashmere blends hold a cable pattern crisply and stand up well to weekend wear. Merino is the practical everyday choice. Herno’s Cable-Knit Wool and Cashmere Cardigan in Military and Pink shows how a blend carries texture, while the Merino Wool Cardigan in Camel is the quiet one you will reach for most.

What size cashmere cardigan should you buy?

Brunello Cucinelli cuts its men’s knitwear on the Italian scale. On our product pages Coveti shows it as a UK and US chest size, using the conversion UK equals IT minus 10. The navy cardigan runs from a 34 to a 54 chest.

Measure around the fullest part of your chest with a shirt on and compare it with a cardigan you already like. If the cardigan will mostly go under a blazer, stay with your usual size so it sits close. Our Brunello Cucinelli men’s size guide has the full tables for tailoring, trousers and shoes.

How do you care for a cashmere cardigan?

• Fold it. Hangers stretch the shoulders of any knit, and a cardigan is worse because the open front pulls down.
• Give it a day off between wears so the fibres can recover their shape.
• Remove pilling with a cashmere comb rather than pulling at it.
• Follow the care label, and see our guide on how to wash cashmere for hand washing.
• Store it clean, in a breathable bag, through the summer.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best way to wear a men’s cashmere cardigan?

Wear it open over a collared shirt with tailored trousers as a soft alternative to a blazer, and closed under a jacket with a shirt and tie. A mock neck T-shirt under the cardigan makes a relaxed weekend version.

Is a cashmere cardigan worth it for men?

For most men, yes. A cashmere cardigan layers under coats and blazers without bulk, works across smart and casual outfits and lasts for years when it is folded, rested between wears and washed with care.

Can you wear a cardigan under a blazer?

Yes. Choose a fine, close-fitting cardigan, button it and wear it over a shirt and tie so it shows in the opening of the jacket like a waistcoat. Chunky cardigans push the jacket off its shoulder line.

What size Brunello Cucinelli cardigan should I buy?

Brunello Cucinelli knitwear is cut on the Italian scale, and Coveti shows it as a UK and US chest size using UK equals IT minus 10, so IT 50 is a 40 chest. Measure your chest over a shirt and compare it with a cardigan you already own.

How should you store a cashmere cardigan?

Fold it instead of hanging it, keep it clean and store it in a breathable bag. Hangers stretch the shoulders and the open front of a cardigan.