Bubble Hem Dresses: How to Wear the Balloon Skirt Now

A bubble hem dress has a skirt that is gathered back in at the hem, so it puffs out and curves under in a rounded, balloon shape. It is the defining party silhouette of the moment, and in taffeta and satin it looks polished rather than costume. Sandra Mansour has two of the best in the Arte collection, available at Sandra Mansour at Coveti.

Bubble hem, balloon skirt and puffball

The three terms describe the same idea. A bubble hem is turned under at the edge. A balloon skirt is the wider, fuller version, and a puffball is the 1980s name for a very short, very round version. Today the shape is softer, often draped, and usually in a crisp fabric such as taffeta that holds the volume.

Who a bubble hem suits

The volume sits at the hip, so a bubble hem suits slim legs and a straighter figure, adding curve where there is little. On a pear shape, choose a fitted bodice with a strapless and a sweetheart neckline to balance the hip. Keep the length above the knee; a longer bubble shortens the leg.

The bubble hem dresses to buy

1. À Demi Dress in Peach

A mini in draped peach taffeta with a balloon skirt. The cleanest, most modern version of the shape.

2. Tout Doux Dress in Floral Print

A draped satin mini with a balloon skirt in a soft flower print.

For other short party shapes from the same house, the Pistache Dress is a strapless tulle mini with a train, and the Keepsake Dress is a gold net mini. Browse every short style in our designer mini dresses.

Fabrics that hold the shape

A bubble hem needs a fabric with body. Taffeta is the classic: crisp, light and slightly shiny, it keeps the rounded shape all evening. Satin is softer and drapes as it puffs, which gives a more fluid balloon. Mikado and duchess satin are heavier and more formal. Thin jersey and chiffon cannot hold the volume, so a bubble hem in those fabrics usually needs a stiff inner lining.

Where to wear a bubble hem dress

• Cocktail party: the natural home of the shape. A short taffeta bubble hem in a pastel is easy and fun.
• Wedding reception: choose a soft colour and a print, and avoid white and ivory.
• Engagement party: a strapless bubble hem dress in a bright colour photographs well.
• Holiday parties: a dark taffeta bubble hem with sheer tights works from December into New Year.

How to style a bubble hem dress

Keep the rest of the outfit simple. A pointed slingback and a bare sandal elongate the leg, and a small structured bag suits the shape better than a slouchy one. Sheer tights in winter are fine; opaque tights make the skirt look heavier.

Frequently asked questions

What is a bubble hem dress?

A bubble hem dress has a skirt gathered back in at the hem so it puffs out and curves under, creating a rounded balloon shape.

Is a bubble hem the same as a balloon skirt?

Almost. A bubble hem is turned under at the edge, while a balloon skirt is the wider, fuller version of the same shape.

Who suits a bubble hem dress?

Slim legs and straighter figures suit it best, because the volume adds curve at the hip. A short length works best.

Can you wear a bubble hem dress to a wedding?

Yes, to a cocktail and evening reception. Choose taffeta and satin in a colour other than white.