Men’s Corduroy Trousers: Wale, Fit and How to Wear Cords in Winter
Men’s Corduroy Trousers: Wale, Fit and How to Wear Cords in Winter
Men’s corduroy trousers are cotton trousers woven with raised ridges called wales, softer and warmer-looking than chinos and smart enough for a blazer. Fine wale reads polished, wide wale reads country. Brunello Cucinelli makes its winter cords in 100% cotton, and Coveti’s men’s trousers edit has further corduroy styles from Herno and Moncler.
What is corduroy?
Corduroy is a cut-pile cloth, usually cotton, woven so that extra yarns form raised cords running down the fabric. Those cords are the wales, and the channels between them give the cloth its ribbed look and soft, velvety hand. The pile catches the light differently from each direction, which is why corduroy looks richer in person than in photographs.
It is one of the great autumn and winter cloths, and it has a pleasingly long history in country clothing, university wardrobes and off-duty tailoring. What makes it useful now is its range. A fine cord in a pale colour works under a blazer; a wide cord in brown belongs with a heavy knit and boots. Our guide to Brunello Cucinelli menswear shows how the house builds casual trousers into its tailored wardrobe.
What does wale mean in corduroy?
Wale is the width of each cord, and it changes the whole character of the trouser. Corduroy is graded by how many wales fit into an inch of cloth: the more wales, the finer the cord.
| Wale | Also called | Look | Wear it with |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fine | Needlecord, pinwale | Smooth, almost velvet-like, the dressiest | Blazers, shirts and ties, loafers |
| Medium | Standard wale | The classic cord, clearly ribbed | Knitwear, overshirts, boots and sneakers |
| Wide | Jumbo, elephant cord | Bold ridges, relaxed and rustic | Chunky knits, shearling, mountain boots |
If you only own one pair, medium wale is the most versatile. If you already wear a lot of tailoring, a finer cord will fit into it more easily.
Colour matters as much as wale. Camel, ivory and brown are the classic cord colours and sit happily with almost everything in a winter wardrobe. White and stone look fresh and a little unexpected, best with grey and navy knitwear. Darker shades such as navy and olive are the most forgiving for travel and long days out.
The corduroy trousers at Coveti
The Corduroy trousers in White are the Brunello Cucinelli pick, 100% cotton and part of the brand’s men’s Winter Edit. White cords are a confident winter move: they look crisp against grey flannel and navy cashmere, and very good in the mountains, which is where the edit takes its inspiration. Like everything we list from the house, they are made in Italy.
Herno offers the warmer neutrals. The Corduroy Trousers in Camel are the classic colour for cords, and the Corduroy Trousers in Ivory are a softer alternative to the Brunello Cucinelli white. For a more utilitarian look, the Corduroy Cargo Trousers in Light Military add pockets and a weekend mood.
Moncler takes cords fully casual with the Corduroy Jogging Trousers in Brown, which belong on a chalet sofa and a long drive to the mountains. Browse the full Herno and Moncler edits for more.
How should corduroy trousers fit?
Corduroy has more body than chino twill, so it looks best with a little room. A straight leg with a gentle taper is the sweet spot. Too slim and the wales stretch across the thigh and lose their texture; too wide and a heavy cord can look bulky. Have them hemmed with a slight break, and with none at all if you mostly wear them with boots and sneakers.
Coveti shows Brunello Cucinelli trousers as UK and US waist sizes, using UK equals IT minus 16. The white corduroy trousers run from a 28 to a 44 waist.
| Italian (IT) | UK and US waist |
|---|---|
| 46 | 30 |
| 48 | 32 |
| 50 | 34 |
| 52 | 36 |
| 54 | 38 |
| 56 | 40 |
Herno and Moncler cords on Coveti are listed in letter sizes. Our Brunello Cucinelli men’s size guide has the full tables.
How do you wear corduroy trousers in winter?
With knitwear
This is the most natural pairing. Corduroy and wool share a matte, textured surface, so they sit together easily. The Alpaca-blend sweater in Anthracite with white cords is a strong winter contrast; a Cashmere cardigan in Navy Blue over a shirt is the softer, more tailored version. Our guide to the men’s cashmere cardigan has more ideas.
With a shirt and jacket
A fine cord is smart enough for a blazer. Wear camel cords with a Garment-dyed twill shirt in Panama and a flannel jacket, and the outfit works for a country lunch and a relaxed office.
Corduroy on corduroy
Wearing cord on top and bottom works when the wales and colours differ. Moncler’s Corduroy Shirt Jacket in Beige over darker cords is the easy version: different shade, different weight, same family.
With boots
Cords and boots belong together. The Suede mountain-style boots in Dark Grey look right with every pair in this guide. For a ski weekend, our apres ski outfit guide for men builds outfits around cords and boots.
Corduroy vs chinos vs flannel
- Chinos are lighter cotton twill, the year-round casual trouser.
- Corduroy is the winter cotton trouser: more texture, more body, more character.
- Flannel is brushed wool, the smarter winter trouser; see our guide to pleated trousers for men for how flannel tailoring looks with knitwear.
How do you care for corduroy?
- Follow the care label first.
- Turn cords inside out before washing so the pile does not rub flat.
- Skip the tumble dryer where the label allows, and hang them to dry.
- Avoid ironing the face; if you must press them, do it inside out.
- Brush gently along the wale to lift a flattened pile.
For the rest of the winter wardrobe these trousers belong to, read old money style and our edit of quiet luxury menswear.
Frequently Asked Questions
What are the best men’s corduroy trousers for winter?
Choose a medium wale cord in a straight leg for the most versatile pair, then add a fine wale for wear with blazers. Neutral colours such as white, ivory and camel are the easiest to style with winter knitwear.
What does wale mean in corduroy?
Wale is the width of each raised cord. Corduroy is graded by how many wales fit into an inch, so a higher number means a finer cord. Fine wale looks dressy, medium is the classic and wide wale looks relaxed.
How should men wear corduroy trousers?
Wear them with knitwear, with a shirt and jacket, and with a different shade of corduroy on top. Boots are the natural shoe, and suede Derbys and sneakers work too.
Can you wear corduroy trousers to the office?
Yes, in a relaxed office. Fine wale cords in a neutral colour with a shirt, a knit and a blazer look polished without feeling formal.
What size Brunello Cucinelli corduroy trousers should I buy?
Coveti shows Brunello Cucinelli trousers as UK and US waist sizes using UK equals IT minus 16, so an IT 50 is a 34 waist. The corduroy trousers run from a 28 to a 44 waist.