Pointed-Toe Pumps: How to Choose the Right Heel Height, and the Pairs Worth Owning

The short answer: a pointed-toe pump lengthens the leg more than any other shoe, and the best one for most wardrobes has a 5 to 7.5 cm heel, a vamp cut low enough to show the top of the foot, and leather that holds its shape. Buy black patent first, then a warm brown. Our pick is the Khaite Vivien Pump in Cigar, an asymmetric pump in which left and right are cut differently to make one sharp line. Shop all designer heels, the full shoes edit and the whole Khaite collection at Coveti.

The pointed pump is the shoe that makes a pair of jeans look intentional and a suit look feminine. Khaite is the New York label Catherine Holstein founded in 2016. It won the CFDA American Womenswear Designer of the Year award in 2022 and again in 2023, and it is known for reworked wardrobe essentials: cashmere knitwear, denim, leather and a very particular kind of evening dress. Its pumps are made in Italy and come in three shapes this season: the asymmetric Vivien, the softly folded Miriam and the embroidered Colleen.

Which heel height?

How to choose a pump that fits

• Toe room: your toes should end before the point narrows, not inside it.
• Heel grip: no gap at the back when you rise onto your toes.
• Size: some styles run large. Khaite advises sizing down half a size in the Miriam.

Our picks

1. Vivien Pump in Cigar

Goatskin chosen for shape retention, with distinct left and right silhouettes. Cigar brown reads as a neutral. Also in Black Patent Leather and Taupe.

2. Vivien Low Pump in Black and White Pinstripe

The same asymmetry on a lower heel, in pinstriped wool lined in goatskin. A suiting fabric for your feet. Also in Black Patent Leather.

3. Miriam Low Pump in Midnight

A deliberately soft pump in velvet, lined in suede, inspired by the folds of fabric, on a 5 cm heel. Khaite says it runs large, so size down half a size. Also in Rust.

4. Colleen Pump in Black Multi

Embroidered velvet, a sharply pointed toe and a high vamp, on a 7.5 cm heel. We would wear it to parties.

How to wear pointed pumps

With the Zimmer Jean in Rialto and the Gemma Sweater in Ivory by day, with the Han Pant in Black Flower Embroidery at night. For open shoes, see kitten heel sandals, and for flats, velvet flats.

Frequently asked questions

Are pointed-toe pumps still in style?

Yes. The pointed pump is a permanent wardrobe shoe, and the current mood favours lower heels and unusual materials such as velvet and pinstripe wool.

Do pointed-toe shoes make your feet look bigger?

No, they make the leg look longer. A low-cut vamp that shows the top of the foot has the strongest lengthening effect.

What heel height is best for the office?

Between 4 and 6 cm. High enough to look polished, low enough for a full day.

Should I size down in Khaite pumps?

Only where the brand says so. Khaite recommends half a size down in the Miriam Low Pump; check the fit note on each product page.