Ulla Johnson Lace: The Black Lace Dresses and Tops of 2027

Ulla Johnson lace for Pre-Spring 2027 is an Italian-made stretch Chantilly lace outlined with a raised cotton cordonnet and finished in tulle, cut into two dresses and two tops: the Zena, the Francoise, the Luz and the Olivette. All four sit in our designer lace tops and dress edits and on the Ulla Johnson brand page. If you are looking for a black lace dress, the Zena and the Francoise both come in black, and our explainer on what Chantilly lace is covers the fabric itself.

Key facts

• Ulla Johnson Pre-Spring 2027 lace is an Italian-made stretch Chantilly lace of 85% polyamide and 15% elastane.
• A raised cotton cordonnet outlines the motifs on the Zena and Francoise dresses.
• The four lace pieces are the Zena dress, the Francoise dress, the Luz cami and the Olivette top.
• Every Ulla Johnson lace piece in the delivery is dry clean only, according to the care label.

The lace arrived at Coveti on 7 November 2026 in the second Pre-Spring delivery. Below: what makes this lace different, each piece, how to wear it and how to look after it. For lace across every label, see our lace dresses edit.

What is Chantilly lace?

Chantilly is a fine bobbin lace named after the town of Chantilly, north of Paris. Its signature is a delicate floral pattern worked on a sheer net ground and outlined with a heavier thread, the cordonnet, which gives each motif a drawn edge. Most Chantilly made today comes off machines rather than bobbins, and the look is the same: soft, light and very fine.

The Ulla Johnson version adds two things. The cordonnet is raised cotton, so the outline sits proud of the surface and the flowers read in relief. The lace is also engineered with stretch, 85% polyamide and 15% elastane, which lets a fitted bodice move with the body instead of pulling at the seams. The house calls it high performance lace. Each piece is then finished with tulle, a fine net, at the neckline, hem, straps and armholes.

The four Ulla Johnson lace pieces

1. Zena Dress in Noir

The Zena is a sleeveless maxi with a mock neck, a structured bodice and a gently flared skirt that ends in a handkerchief hem edged in tonal tulle. The slip is separate and attaches with bra keepers at the shoulder seam. This is the black lace dress of the drop for evening.

2. Francoise Dress in Noir

The Francoise is a long-sleeved black midi with a crew neck, mini ruffles at the bodice and a removable slip. Tulle edges the neckline, cuffs and hem. It is the more covered of the two dresses, and the one to choose for a daytime wedding.

3. Luz Cami Top in Noir

The Luz is a camisole with its own slip and tulle along the straps, hem, bust seam and sweetheart neckline. It pulls on and sits relaxed through the body. Black is the version to wear with jeans.

4. Luz Cami Top in Cowrie

The same Luz in cowrie ivory. Pale lace shows the raised cordonnet more clearly, and it pairs well with leather in sage and terracotta.

5. Olivette Top in Noir

The Olivette is a long-sleeved turtleneck with raised floral motifs and tulle at the armholes and scoop yoke. It is structured throughout and zips at the back, so it holds its line under a jacket.

6. Olivette Top in Sienna

The Olivette in sienna, a burnt terracotta. A coloured lace top works with black trousers and denim in the same way a black one does, and gives the outfit more warmth.

7. Imogen Dress in Noir

From the first Pre-Spring delivery, the Imogen Dress in black belongs to the group of pieces finished with Chantilly lace trims rather than made from lace throughout.

8. Josina Lace Midi Skirt in Noir

Already at Coveti, the Josina Lace Midi Skirt in black is the lace piece for anyone who would rather wear it from the waist down. Our guide to how to wear a lace skirt has outfit ideas.

Ulla Johnson lace compared

Source: the Ulla Johnson product pages and care labels, read by Coveti Editorial on 7 November 2026.

How to wear a black lace dress

Black lace carries a lot of pattern on its own, so the rest of the outfit can be plain. A few rules that work with these pieces:

• Keep the slip in. Both dresses are cut to be worn with their slips, and the slip is what makes the lace read as a dress and not a layer.
• Wear the Zena with a flat sandal and small gold jewellery for a summer dinner, then a heel for a black tie wedding.
• Wear the Francoise with a low block heel for daytime events. The long sleeves mean it needs no wrap.
• Put the Olivette under a leather piece. With the Monika mini from our Ulla Johnson leather guide, it makes a simple evening outfit in two textures.
• Wear the Luz with denim at the weekend and a silk skirt for dinner. See Ulla Johnson tops for other pairings.

Wearing lace around the world

In the US, black lace suits evening events and autumn weddings in the Northeast, and the sleeveless Zena and the Luz suit warm nights in California and the South. In the UK and northern Europe, the long-sleeved Francoise and Olivette are the practical choices for most of the year, with a coat over the top from October to April. In southern Europe the Zena works for summer weddings and late dinners outdoors.

In the Gulf, lace is a natural evening fabric. The Francoise, with long sleeves, a crew neck and a midi length, and the Olivette, with a turtleneck and long sleeves, are the most covered pieces here and suit weddings, family dinners and Eid gatherings. Lace this light also wears well in cool, air-conditioned rooms.

Caring for Chantilly lace

Every lace piece is dry clean only. Fine lace snags easily, so keep it away from rough jewellery clasps and velcro, fasten the zip before cleaning and store each piece on a padded hanger out of direct sun. Fold the slip separately if it comes out.

Ulla Johnson lace sizing

Ulla Johnson cuts in US sizes and Coveti lists the UK equivalent: a US 0 is a UK 4, a US 4 is a UK 8 and a US 6 is a UK 10. Knitwear, outerwear, leather jackets and the lace pieces run P to XL, with P listed as XS. The brand flags one piece in this drop as running small, the Liza Strapless Dress, so size up there and take your usual size elsewhere. The full charts are in our Ulla Johnson size guide. The stretch in the lace gives a little ease across the bodice of the structured pieces, and the model on every product page is 5 ft 10 in, which helps you judge where the Francoise lands.

Frequently asked questions

What lace does Ulla Johnson use?

The Pre-Spring 2027 lace is an Italian-made stretch Chantilly lace with a raised cotton cordonnet that outlines its motifs. It is 85% polyamide and 15% elastane, finished with tulle.

Does the Ulla Johnson Zena dress have a slip?

Yes. The Zena comes with a separate slip that attaches at the shoulder seam with bra keepers.

Is the Ulla Johnson lace see-through?

The lace itself is sheer, which is why the Zena, Francoise and Luz are made with slips. The house does not publish a slip for the Olivette.

How do you wash Ulla Johnson lace?

Every lace piece is dry clean only, according to the care label. Store it on a padded hanger away from direct sun.

What should I wear with a black lace dress?

Keep the accessories small: gold jewellery, a flat sandal by day and a heel at night. Let the lace carry the pattern.

What colours does the Ulla Johnson lace come in?

The Zena and Francoise come in black. The Luz comes in Noir and Cowrie ivory, and the Olivette in Noir and Sienna.

Read next: What is Chantilly lace?, Lace dresses, The best Ulla Johnson dresses.

By Coveti Editorial. Updated 7 November 2026.