Brands we love, Fashion, What to wear

Ulla Johnson Gowns: Every Evening Gown and How to Choose

Brands we love, Fashion, What to wear

Ulla Johnson Gowns: Every Evening Gown and How to Choose

Ulla Johnson gowns are floor-length silk chiffon dresses, and the Pre-Spring 2027 collection has six of them: the Persephone off the shoulder gown in two colours, the Freesia in two colours, the Demetra and the Gossamer. All six sit in Coveti’s evening gowns edit and on the Ulla Johnson brand page, and they range from a column-like printed shift to a full tiered skirt that suits black tie wedding guest dressing.

Key facts

  • Ulla Johnson Pre-Spring 2027 has six evening gowns: Persephone in two colours, Freesia in two colours, Demetra and Gossamer.
  • The Persephone is the only off the shoulder gown, in crinkle chiffon with silver and gold Lurex threadwork.
  • The Freesia Gown has a micro-pleated bodice, gathered tiers and a crisscross back in satin-faced chiffon.
  • All six Ulla Johnson gowns in the drop are silk chiffon and dry clean only.

This guide goes through each gown, the maxi pieces that sit alongside them, and how to choose between them for a formal night and a garden wedding.

What makes an Ulla Johnson gown different?

The label is known for volume, and the gowns put that volume into fabric rather than boning. There is no corsetry here. The structure comes from pleats, ruching and gathered tiers in silk chiffon, so the gowns move when you walk and pack better than a structured ball gown. Two fabrics do the work: satin-faced chiffon, which has a soft sheen on one side, and crinkle chiffon, heat-set into fine creases, which in the Persephone is shot through with silver and gold Lurex. If you want a more architectural shape, our ball gowns guide covers that end of the market.

All six Ulla Johnson evening gowns

1. Persephone Off the Shoulder Gown in Noir

The Persephone in black crinkle chiffon is the off the shoulder gown of the drop: camisole straps that run into voluminous ruffles, a square neckline, a pleated bodice and a pleated maxi skirt. Silver and gold Lurex threadwork catches the light all over.

2. Persephone Off the Shoulder Gown in Cosmos

The same Persephone in cosmos peach. The Lurex reads warmer on the paler ground, and the colour is a good alternative to pastels at a spring wedding.

3. Freesia Gown in Noir

The Freesia in black satin-faced chiffon has wide V-neck straps, a micro-pleated bodice under a structured empire seam, gathered tiers and a crisscross back. The most formal of the six.

4. Freesia Gown in Wisteria

The Freesia again, in soft wisteria lilac. The tiers are voluminous, so keep everything else plain.

5. Demetra Gown in Acacia

The Demetra is a sleeveless gown with a crew neckline in the Acacia print, small pale yellow blooms on cream. Soft gathering at the bodice and an elasticated waist give way to a gently pleated skirt.

6. Gossamer Gown in Jasmine

The Gossamer is a relaxed shift in silk crinkle chiffon, printed with the Jasmine bouquets and fine mint lines, with a gently pleated skirt. It is the easiest of the six to wear.

The maxi pieces that sit alongside them

Not every long occasion needs a gown. These two give you the length with a little less formality.

7. Gaelle Maxi Skirt in Amaranthus

The Gaelle Maxi Skirt in Amaranthus silk crinkle chiffon, dark garnet and rose bouquets on a pleated skirt. With a silk blouse it reads as an evening look; with a knit it works by day.

8. Sofia Dress with Removable Tie in Ecru Stripe

The Sofia is a long-sleeved maxi dress in ecru and navy striped poplin with a ruffled neckline and a removable tie. A daytime maxi, machine washable, for lunches and long weekends.

The Gaelle also comes in the Jasmine print, and the Delphina Lace Skirt in pale hydrangea blue layers sheer chiffon over a short silk slip trimmed with Chantilly lace.

How to choose an Ulla Johnson gown for black tie and garden weddings

Start with the dress code, then the light. A black tie dinner after dark wants sheen and a full skirt, and a garden wedding in daylight wants print and movement.

  • Black tie: the Freesia in black is the safest answer, with its full tiers and crisscross back. The black Persephone is the more glamorous option, with Lurex that picks up candlelight.
  • Formal evening wedding: the Freesia in wisteria and the Persephone in cosmos give colour without breaking the formality.
  • Garden wedding: the Demetra in Acacia and the Gossamer in Jasmine, both printed, both light on the body, both right in daylight.
  • Off the shoulder shapes: the Persephone is the only one, so pair it with a low bun and earrings rather than a necklace.
  • Shoes: a block heel on grass, a fine sandal indoors. Chiffon hems look best just skimming the floor in your chosen heel.

The prints with cream grounds, Acacia and Jasmine, are busy enough that they never read as bridal white, but choose the Persephone in black and the Freesia in wisteria when you want no question at all. Our Ulla Johnson wedding guest dresses guide covers shorter options too, and garden party dresses has more daytime ideas.

Fit and sizing for the gowns

Ulla Johnson cuts in US sizes and Coveti lists the UK equivalent: a US 0 is a UK 4, a US 4 is a UK 8 and a US 6 is a UK 10. Knitwear runs P to XL, with P listed as XS. The brand gives no advice to size up on any piece in this drop, so take your usual size. The full charts are in our Ulla Johnson size guide. The Persephone and the Demetra have elastic waists, which forgive a little; the Freesia is structured at the neckline and bodice, so it is the one to try first in your usual size. The model on every page is 5 ft 10 in.

Caring for a silk chiffon gown

All six gowns are dry clean only. Hang them on a padded hanger in a breathable cover, and steam rather than iron: steam relaxes the pleats on the Freesia without flattening them, and crinkle chiffon should never be pressed flat at all.

Ulla Johnson at a glance

Founded 1999, in New York, by Ulla Johnson; Barneys New York picked up the line in 2000
Known for Romantic volume, hand-work and print, made with artisan partners in Peru, India, Kenya, Uruguay and the Philippines
Denim Handcrafted in Los Angeles since 2021
Latest collection Pre-Spring 2027: jacquard knits with fringe and eyelets, silk chiffon prints, Chantilly lace trims and striped poplin
Sizes US 00 to 16 (Coveti lists UK 4 to 18, so a US 4 is a UK 8); knitwear in P to XL; denim by inch waist
Peers Zimmermann, Johanna Ortiz, Alémais, La DoubleJ

Frequently asked questions

Does Ulla Johnson make evening gowns?

Yes. The Pre-Spring 2027 collection has six evening gowns: the Persephone, the Freesia, the Demetra and the Gossamer, with the Persephone and Freesia each in two colours.

Which Ulla Johnson gown is off the shoulder?

The Persephone Off the Shoulder Gown, in black and in cosmos peach. It is made in crinkle chiffon with silver and gold Lurex threadwork, ruffles and an elastic waist.

Is an Ulla Johnson gown suitable for black tie?

The Freesia Gown in black is the clearest black tie choice, with a micro-pleated bodice and a full tiered skirt. The black Persephone also works for an evening event.

What fabric are Ulla Johnson gowns made from?

Silk chiffon. The Freesia and Demetra are satin-faced chiffon, the Gossamer is silk crinkle chiffon and the Persephone is a silk and polyester crinkle chiffon.

Can I wear an Ulla Johnson gown to a garden wedding?

Yes. The printed Demetra in Acacia and Gossamer in Jasmine are light, printed and suited to daylight, and both look right on a lawn.

Read next: Ulla Johnson Pre-Spring 2027, Black tie wedding guest dresses, What is crinkle chiffon?.

By Gemma Deeks, Coveti Fashion Editor. Updated 21 October 2026.