What Is Ikat? The Dye Technique, Its Types and How to Wear It

Ikat is a resist-dye technique in which bundles of yarn are tightly bound and dyed before they are woven, so the pattern is built into the threads and the finished motifs have a soft, feathered edge. The name comes from the Malay and Indonesian word mengikat, to tie. You will find ikat-inspired prints on designer dresses every season, and this year the Ulla Johnson brand page has a group of printed fringe pieces based on an Uzbek ikat, alongside our wider edit of fringe dresses.

Key facts

• Ikat is a resist-dye technique in which yarns are bound and dyed before weaving, giving motifs a feathered edge.
• The word ikat comes from the Malay and Indonesian mengikat, meaning to tie.
• The three main types are warp ikat, weft ikat and double ikat, in which both sets of threads are dyed.
• The Ulla Johnson Pre-Spring 2027 fringe is printed polyester whose print draws on an Uzbek ikat textile.

This guide explains how ikat is made, the three main types, where the best-known ikat comes from, and how to read an ikat print when you shop. For the full Ulla Johnson season, see our Pre-Spring 2027 edit.

How is ikat made?

The dyer begins with yarn, not cloth. Sections of the yarn are wrapped tightly with thread, then dipped in dye. Where the binding sits, the dye cannot reach, and those sections stay pale. The binding is cut away, new sections are tied, and the yarn goes into the next dye bath. A pattern with several colours needs several rounds of tying and dyeing.

Only then does weaving begin. Because the dye never lines up perfectly from thread to thread, the edges of each motif blur slightly, which gives ikat its characteristic feathered, flickering look. That blur is the mark of the real thing. A printed textile can imitate it, but on woven ikat it runs through the cloth, so the pattern shows on both sides.

What are the types of ikat?

Warp ikat

Only the warp, the threads held lengthwise on the loom, is dyed. The weaver can see the pattern as soon as the loom is set up, and the plain weft passes across it. It is the most common form.

Weft ikat

Only the weft, the thread passed across the loom, is dyed. The pattern appears as the weaving goes on, and keeping the motifs aligned takes more skill.

Double ikat

Both warp and weft are resist-dyed, and the weaver lines them up so the patterns meet exactly. It is the slowest and rarest form; the patola silks of Gujarat in India are the best-known example.

Where does ikat come from?

Ikat has been woven in many places, among them Indonesia, India, Japan, Latin America and Central Asia. Central Asian silk ikat, from what is now Uzbekistan, is among the most celebrated. Uzbek weavers in Bukhara and the Fergana Valley made bold, large-scale ikat in silk and silk blends, known locally as abr, the Persian word for cloud, a name that suits the blurred edges of the motifs.

How Ulla Johnson uses ikat

The Ulla Johnson pieces are not woven ikat. They are printed polyester fringe, and the print draws on an Uzbek ikat textile that the founder sourced on her travels. The fabric is printed, then laser-cut into strands, and in some pieces pleated, so the motif breaks up as the fringe moves. The fringe keeps the feathered look of ikat and adds a swing that flat cloth cannot.

Two colourways run through the group. Nocturne is a teal, lime and coral ikat print on black. Lucent is a two-tone black motif on blush.

1. Cosmo Strapless Fringe Dress in Nocturne

The Cosmo is a strapless midi in Nocturne with a sweetheart neckline and a structured bustier bodice. The fabric is pleated and laser-cut into asymmetrical fringe that cascades to the hem. Our strapless dresses guide has more in the same shape.

2. Irina Fringe Skirt in Nocturne

The Irina is a relaxed midi skirt in the same Nocturne print, with micro pleats that are printed and laser-cut. Wear it with a fine knit and a flat sandal.

3. Cecilia Fringe Trim Top in Nocturne

The Cecilia Top has a crew neck, three-quarter sleeves and fringe cut so the strands move with the body. It is the easiest way into the print, with jeans by day and a silk skirt at night.

4. Valeria Fringe Dress in Lucent

The Valeria is a sleeveless crew-neck dress in Lucent, the black-on-blush ikat print, with a structured bodice, a drop waist and laser-cut fringe falling into a midi skirt. See our drop waist dresses for the silhouette.

5. Nerine Silk Fringe Dress in Beryl

Already at Coveti, the Nerine Silk Fringe Dress in beryl blue is the plain-coloured alternative for anyone who wants fringe without a print.

6. Lark Silk Fringe Skirt in Malachite

The Lark Silk Fringe Skirt in malachite green brings fringe to a silk skirt, and pairs well with the Cecilia top.

7. Willa Silk Fringe Top in Creme

The Willa Silk Fringe Top in creme is the quieter fringe top, and the one to wear under a jacket.

Woven ikat and printed ikat compared

Source: the Ulla Johnson product pages and care labels, read by Coveti Editorial on 7 November 2026.

How to wear an ikat dress

Ikat is a strong pattern, and fringe adds movement on top of it. Treat the piece as the whole outfit and keep everything else quiet.

• Pick one colour from the print and repeat it once. With Nocturne, a coral sandal and nothing else coloured.
• Keep jewellery small. Fringe catches on long chains and bracelets.
• Wear the Irina skirt with a plain fine knit, and the Cecilia top with dark jeans.
• Choose the Valeria for a spring wedding, a long lunch and a summer dinner; the blush ground reads softer than black. Our Ulla Johnson wedding guest dresses covers more options.

For other labels known for print and texture, browse Johanna Ortiz and Alemais, and see brands like Ulla Johnson for more.

Wearing ikat around the world

In the US, the Nocturne pieces suit autumn evenings in New York and resort weekends in Florida and California. In the UK and northern Europe, wear the Cecilia and Irina with knitwear and a coat through the cooler months, and save the strapless Cosmo for summer. Southern Europe is where the Valeria comes into its own, at weddings and long outdoor lunches. In the Gulf, the fringe pieces suit evening events in the cooler months, and the Cecilia top, with three-quarter sleeves, layers well under a long jacket.

Ulla Johnson fringe sizing and care

Ulla Johnson cuts in US sizes and Coveti lists the UK equivalent: a US 0 is a UK 4, a US 4 is a UK 8 and a US 6 is a UK 10. Knitwear, outerwear, leather jackets and the lace pieces run P to XL, with P listed as XS. The brand flags one piece in this drop as running small, the Liza Strapless Dress, so size up there and take your usual size elsewhere. The full charts are in our Ulla Johnson size guide. All four printed fringe pieces are dry clean only. Hang them on a padded hanger so the strands fall straight, and give them room in the wardrobe to keep the fringe from tangling.

Frequently asked questions

What is ikat?

Ikat is a resist-dye technique where yarns are tied and dyed before weaving, so the pattern sits in the threads. The motifs have soft, feathered edges.

What does the word ikat mean?

It comes from the Malay and Indonesian word mengikat, which means to tie, after the binding of the yarn before dyeing.

What is the difference between warp, weft and double ikat?

Warp ikat dyes only the lengthwise threads, weft ikat dyes only the crosswise thread, and double ikat dyes both and aligns them. Double ikat is the rarest.

Is the Ulla Johnson fringe woven ikat?

No. It is printed polyester fringe, and the print draws on an Uzbek ikat textile the founder sourced on her travels.

What is Uzbek ikat called?

In Uzbekistan ikat is known as abr, the Persian word for cloud, after the blurred edges of its motifs.

How do you care for an Ulla Johnson fringe dress?

The printed fringe pieces are dry clean only. Hang them so the strands fall straight.

Read next: Fringe dresses, Ulla Johnson lace, How to style Ulla Johnson.

By Coveti Editorial. Updated 7 November 2026.