Fashion, How to, What to wear

Pleated Midi Skirts: Pleat Types, Pairings and Shoes

Fashion, How to, What to wear

Pleated Midi Skirts: Pleat Types, Pairings and Shoes

A pleated midi skirt is a skirt folded into regular pleats that falls to between the knee and the ankle, and it works best with a fitted, tucked-in top and a shoe that suits its weight. The pleated skirts in the Ulla Johnson Pre-Spring 2027 collection show almost every pleat there is, from silk micro pleats to pleats in knit, and our Ulla Johnson skirts guide covers the label’s wider skirt story.

Key facts

  • A pleat is a fold of fabric pressed and stitched in place, holding close at the waist and releasing width at the hem.
  • Micro pleats are tiny heat-set folds; knife pleats are wider folds pressed in one direction.
  • Pintucks are narrow stitched folds that can release into soft pleats lower on a skirt.
  • Ulla Johnson Pre-Spring 2027 pleated skirts come in satin-faced chiffon, silk crepe de chine, compact knit, rayon knit and silk crinkle chiffon.

Why the pleated midi works

A pleat is a fold of fabric pressed and stitched in place. Pleats hold close at the waist and release width at the hem, so the skirt moves when you walk without adding bulk at the hip. At midi length that movement is the point: the hem swings below the knee, and the skirt works with a flat shoe as easily as a heel.

The pleat types to know

Micro pleats

Micro pleats are tiny, tight folds, usually heat-set into a fine fabric so they stay put. They make a skirt fluid and light, and they look best in chiffon and satin-faced fabrics that catch the light along each fold.

Pintucks into soft pleats

Pintucks are very narrow folds stitched down their length. When they stop partway down a skirt, the fabric below releases into soft, unpressed pleats. The effect is a neat waist and a fluid hem, ideal if you want shape at the top without stiffness.

Knife pleats in knit

Knife pleats are folds all pressed in the same direction, the classic schoolroom pleat. In knit, pleats are softer and rounder than in a woven, and the skirt moves with the body instead of standing away from it. They are the warmest option for autumn.

Gathered and tiered skirts

A tiered skirt is built from horizontal bands, each fuller than the one above, often gathered instead of pleated. A tiered maxi skirt is the long version, with the most movement of all; it suits flat sandals and a fitted top. In this drop the tiers appear on a silk midi, and the floor-length option is a pleated maxi.

The best pleated skirts: Pre-Spring 2027 picks

1. Samira Midi Skirt in Noir

Black satin-faced chiffon, with fluid micro pleats and gathered tiers falling from the waist. The satin face gives a soft sheen along each pleat.

2. Samira Midi Skirt in Acacia

The Samira in the Acacia print of small pale yellow blooms on cream, for daytime and garden events.

3. Yvette Midi Skirt in Canyon

Silk crepe de chine in canyon caramel with black trim. Pintucking at the high waist gives way to soft pleats and a contrasting hem.

4. Yvette Midi Skirt in Botanica

The Yvette in the Botanica print of painted leaves on black, the darkest of the three colourways and the easiest for evening.

5. Rosina Midi Knit Skirt in Topaz

A deep mustard compact knit with lace-like floral motifs across the waistband and body, a cinched high waist and gentle pleats.

6. Rosina Midi Knit Skirt in Noir

The Rosina in black, the knit pleated skirt to wear from autumn into spring.

7. Lilah Midi Knit Skirt in Garnet

A high-waisted garnet knit with gentle pleats and vertical columns of graphic eyelet motifs.

8. Gaelle Maxi Skirt in Amaranthus

For the maxi length, silk crinkle chiffon in the Amaranthus print of garnet and rose bouquets, falling into a gently pleated skirt.

9. Gaelle Maxi Skirt in Jasmine

The Gaelle maxi in the Jasmine print, floral bouquets on cream with mint lines, for spring weddings and long lunches.

What tops to wear with a pleated midi skirt

A pleated skirt has volume at the hem, so the top should be close and short enough to show the waist.

  • A fitted knit: the Vara Knit Top in Cowrie has scalloped edges that echo a pleated hem.
  • A tucked silk blouse: the Nova Blouse in Canyon matches the Yvette skirt in the same canyon silk for a near-dress.
  • A slim tank: the Ingrid Knit Tank Top in Noir works under a jacket with a knit skirt.
  • A crew-neck jumper for cold days, half-tucked so the waistband shows.
  • Avoid long, loose tunics, which hide the waist and swallow the pleats.

Our silk blouses guide and ruffle blouses guide have more tops that tuck in neatly.

Shoes by season

  • Spring: a ballet flat and a low slingback keep a silk pleat light.
  • Summer: a flat leather sandal for the maxi, a heeled sandal for evening.
  • Autumn: a knee boot under a knit pleated skirt, with the hem just covering the top of the boot.
  • Winter: an ankle boot with opaque tights and a long coat that ends below the hem.

For knit skirts in more detail, read our knit skirts guide, and for the sheer slip-and-lace skirts in this drop see how to wear a lace skirt.

Sizing and care

Ulla Johnson cuts in US sizes and Coveti lists the UK equivalent: a US 0 is a UK 4, a US 4 is a UK 8 and a US 6 is a UK 10. Knitwear runs P to XL, with P listed as XS. The brand gives no advice to size up on any piece in this drop, so take your usual size. The full charts are in our Ulla Johnson size guide. Choose skirts by your waist measurement, since the pleats take care of the hip. Every pleated skirt in this edit is labelled dry clean only. Hang pleated skirts by the waistband with clips, and never press micro pleats with a hot iron, which can flatten them for good.

Where else to look

For more pleated and printed skirts, browse Zimmermann, La DoubleJ and Emilia Wickstead.

Frequently asked questions

What top goes with a pleated midi skirt?

A fitted, tucked-in top: a slim knit, a tucked silk blouse and a close tank all show the waist and balance the volume at the hem.

What shoes do you wear with a pleated midi skirt?

Ballet flats and slingbacks in spring, sandals in summer, knee boots in autumn and ankle boots with tights in winter.

What is the difference between micro pleats and knife pleats?

Micro pleats are tiny, heat-set folds in fine fabric. Knife pleats are wider folds all pressed in one direction.

Can a pleated midi skirt be worn in winter?

Yes. Choose a knit pleated skirt, wear it with opaque tights and a knee boot and add a long coat.

How do you wear a tiered maxi skirt?

Pair it with a fitted top that shows the waist and a flat sandal, and keep the top plain so the tiers lead.

How do you keep pleats sharp?

Hang the skirt by the waistband with clips, follow the dry clean label and never press micro pleats with a hot iron.

Read next: Knit skirts, How to wear a lace skirt, Ulla Johnson skirts.

By Gemma Deeks, Coveti Fashion Editor. Updated 21 October 2026.